Guilt-Toy

yes be very worried. my techedge wide band is within .1 of a AFR with Hunter All Wheel Dyno's meter when running it up. Your unit may need to be calibrated. I am not sure how to do it but if you ask around a few people have those, i think The Mafia has one. You should take it back and get the local product Techedge, if you have ANY issues he sorts it out for you and can talk to you because he is local in australia and his service is second to none! make sure your wideband is working correctly before you tune it or you could damage your engine.

oohhhhh does that mean i don't have to pay you the cash for it when you deliver it to me tomorrow ? :( yeah yeah fat chance i know thanks everyone nice to know ppl are up the celebrate with me... *hands on extra dry platnums to all"

HHAhahAhAhahAHahaa!!

I am willing to bet that a stock RB25 bottom end will be able to handle 350rwkw with E85. Get me a stock rb25 engine and i will drop it into my car. If i break it at anything under 350 rwkw i will pay for the engine. This fuel is soo forgiving its not funny. You can get the MAX torque level and then advance the timing a extra 10 deg and it will STILL NOT DETONATE. DETONATION destroys engines!!! if your not pinging your RB25 it will last shitloads longer!!! Look at old mate from wollongong who ran over 380rkw and ran a 10 sec quarter on unstable pump 98... add e85 to the equasion and your talking BIG power. I would not be suprised if you can reach 400rwkw with e85 and a stock RB25. (maybe some rod bolts might be needed but you never know lets try it ???)

check air flow meters, replace them with another set to test if you can or check voltages if not its a leak. it has to be.

its probly not a 100% leak, might be 50% so when your at 2000rpm in vaccume the computer is probly chucking in 15psi worth of fuel into the cyl because air is leaking and not going into the engine

power fc and z32 AFM

don't introduce more problems into the system. put the old fuel reg back on untill you fix the problem! it sounds like a leak in the intake piping to me. id be lookin for a leak. but the first thing to do would be to put the stock reg back on.

PEBA&TB Problem exists between airflow meter and throttle body. You have a leak. best way to fix it is to remove the WHOLE system and re-install it and replace worn parts. boost leak or cooler leak or pipe leak or a silicon hose is broken. or all of the above. make sure AFM has a good connection.

far out.. i was in primary school last time i said that

lets get a stock standard brevvile pressure cooker and cook our chicken on 200bar and hope she holds together

Owner is a very close friend of mine of many years.... I oversaw 90% of the mods done to this car and I tuned it. It has more power left in it with more boost. very fast r32 gtst, in very good condition. Everything that has failed in this car has been replaced with NEW parts only, I have seen william pay 10 x as much for parts for it new then what he could have got second hand. He seems to like to change the oil every 10 times he drives the car, even though i keep telling him its a waste of money it gets 5 litres of Nulon fully synthetic oil & filter - usually every 500 - 1000k's (he would be lucky to do that k's in a year) Hope it goes to a good new owner if anyone has any questions about the car they can PM me.

i once farted in my car and it read 150 knock. it was a violent one.

edit.. Thread Nazi is lurking....

i chopped the whole front bar and had the WHOLE r32 gtr cooler exposed on my datsun 180b fj20 and it made a massive difference as well. I could not believe it.

for starters this turbo is much bigger then stock. you need to get it tuned! the reason why it does not feel more powerfull may be a mixture of the tune, and that the stock kkr turbo's have very light waste gate actuator springs so its probly only running 7psi. good luck with it, those turboes are not as bad as everyone makes them out to be

I think your bios needs some work. good luck with it.

any fuel system in the boot is going to stink out the car. nothing you can do about it

someone needs to explain the situation to me. Sounds like this is a case for the Office of the Police Ombudsman! Put in a complaint that they do not know what they are doing and that they need to be qualified before handing out any kind of defect. in NSW only highway patrol can defect you and as much as i hate to admit, some of them have a pretty damn good clue of what they are looking for because they have been trained properly! just tryin to help

ok i had a read.... So basically the police have no idea what they are doing? there is no regulations to say what is legal and what is not in SA? Police have no training on any kind of defects and are not qualified to defect your car at all? what about highway patrol? So your getting defected according to some rules that the police officer makes up at the time as he goes? Wow !! You guys need to stop wasting your time with the police and trying to fix the problem in the police force, thats NOT your job!!. Start going to court. rep yourself and prove to the judge that your car is legal within ADR's. after you start winning the police might realise there is a problem going on when they start looking very stupid all the time. can someone give me a explenation of what is actually going on? some info on whos been defected for what.. etc etc

sorry to bud in, this is not my area but honestly i did not read all the thread... you guys are starting to get defected for mods done to your cars and instead of fixing them you try and make a agreement with police to turn a blind eye to your cars? wow if this actually works and you are allowed to drive around in modded un-engineered illegal cars because you have a good attitude then thats just too good to be true! good luck with it.. don't blame you all for trying.. doing up a car properly is pretty hard

so its $150 for a half day? last time i was there it was only a little more for a whole days worth ?? why so expensive? how much is a full day? i dont wanna go for a few skids then go home in a couple of hours....

yeah i will come for a look see..

i have a diff, r33 gtst manual 4.11 gears $200

Jim's clutches are second to none, 99% of these failures are because of external reasons and not fault of the clutch. Be sure to 1: use proper nissan genuine clutch and flywheel bolts and washers 2: use the correct amount of dowel locating pins on the pressure plate 3: make sure your clutch & flywheel is crack free (x raying is the way to go) 4: if possible use a billet steel crome molley flywheel (ask jim to supply) i cant remember what else but this will give you an idea. they are rated to high horse power applications, anthony martook uses them in his drag cars