Guilt-Toy

are you hitting rev limiter before it starts to miss? does it only do it when your revving high then go back to idle and low rpm staight away ? does it do it when your revving to a max of 3000rpm?

let us know what you come up with.

more information needed. please post every mod done to car. including ecu EVERYTHING or you wont get any real help

i got my car pc.. the thing is smaller then 3 cd cases put together.. looks hot.. too bad ram is not upgradable but 256mb ram should be ok for a cap pc.. il only use it for the net when i am away from home etc etc will have it installed and setup this weekend once i can workout how to stuff the hdd into there

The screen is a Thermaltake 7" touch screen, they are pretty expensive and are made for servers, i run a 12v ATX power supply to run power to it. I also can get some 800mhz tiny pc units with 256mb ram (My unit will be here today, have been using my laptop in the mean time) and will be powering it off the 5v rail on the atx power supply as well as the USB hub, it takes a 2.5" hdd and will be able to run XP without any issues. Well get more pictures of my setup once its completed. I can do you one of these little mini car PC's for about $200 delivered to your door, the screen costs about $500 retail, i got one cheap $399. The screen has VGA input, also has RCA inputs but mine are not working have to send back for RMA next year. I could also power the PC from the 5v rail out of the Vipec but the 5v shouldnt have too much current drawn because it supplys power to the sensors (map sensor etc etc) So yeah let me know if you want one of these units..

I found a VDO Marine oil pressure sender will do the job just fine, 0-4v output.. Will set a gp on the Vipec to switch the engine off if its reving over 1200rpm with less then 2bar pressure.. or something like that... the part number is 360081032014c and there is a VDO seller in WA who will do one for under $100 delivered.

how do you change that setting? i want mine on 95 anyone know if you can get a oil temp sensor that can output the reading to 0-5v?

if you wire the 2 stage back in, will it be enough power to run 2 x high pressure pumps?

hahahaa... ohhh baby thats some big rpm's you got there

ohhhh yeah mate.. the chicks were like, omg show me your knock readings honey

what wastegate actuator are you using? if you have a rb25 one then they are weak as piss and can cause this. get a upgraded wastegate actuator with a 15psi spring and then re-tune it to 20psi and you should get close to the power your after

go and see mark at Godzilla Motorsport, he will be able to fix it for you

Hand controllers get the chicks hey ??

i just used a small tranny oil cooler, its not very big but it does help the system go 3 times longer before the pump starts to complain.

I think the Boy Racer statement is crap. My power FC hand controller has saved my engine from overheating to the point of destroying itself at least 4 times or so that i can remember. The coolant temp sensor on the dash only moves to the H when the temp gets to 110deg, it does not even work if the water leaks out of the car, so it only works when there is coolant / water in the system. So yeah the ECU temp sensor is a better sensor and it still works when the coolant leaks out of the system, so yeah when my power fc temp was reading 99deg (last time i caught it the thing got that hot) my dash gauge did not move from running temp. Pulled over worked out the issue, got the car home filling it up every 4 minutes of driving and replaced the radiator and its still going strong, if you have spent 6k on a forged motor then being carefull about engine temps are a must. imo

i mounted my fuel cooler back in the car today. in a different spot so i can run a air con condensor fan as well. will connect it back up to the fuel system next week, it just needs to be connected all the fuel lines have been run etc etc

hey bud that oil cooler you linked to ebay will be PERFECT for the job.. the just jap oil coolers aint too bad ... i use one.. you just need to make sure they dont leak and sometimes you need to mod them.. in my case i just got the fittings put into a lave and removed the ring for the o-ring and replaced them with a copper washer.. NEVER leaked again and it works a treat!!! get tha oil cooler from ebay and use that as a fuel cooler, its much bigger then mine was and it will work great! i promise you this... use your just jap cooler as they aint too bad as long as they dont leak, if it does leak then DONT replace it just fix the leak.. then they work pretty damn good! Good luck with it.

ahhhh ANOTHER one of my threads being raised from the dead... I can tell you for sure that the issue does exist... There would be many people having the same issue that are not aware of their cars that they do not think its a problem and they just live with it... I PM'd you my phone number.. call me tomorrow after 10pm and i will chat to you about it. You definaty need a fuel cooler OR a voltage droppage configuration that will drop the pump flow on low rpm cruise loads.

if a tuner tuned a car according to QT only then chances are the car will blow up. There is more to tuning then just doing the cruise fuel maps you have to realise that there is alot more to a tune then just fuel ratio's.... if a noob plugs in a vipec and loads up auto tune and tunes the car it probly wont work, the guy from UE said to me, the tuning part on the dyno is the easiest part, its only 20% of the tune, the rest of the tune is setup. If the tuner gets the setup wrong then your screwed

he made one himself. ive seen it.. does not look too bad.. the ol dirt man did a good job

has new firmware been removed from website ? Titan, can you email it to me? [email protected] Or was it removed for a reason? or am i missing something?

you suck !

nice... I aint game to upgrade firmware till i get to newcastle

there is allways one. But yeah what he said

Because Autobarn are full of specialty qualified Skyline mechanics / engineers. Seriously...