Guilt-Toy

anyone able to buy some e85 recently?

Looking for a R33 GTR cluster from 95model + cheers

hmmmm... how long are you getting out of this oil ?? specs / engine punishment / km's etc etc Maybe i can sell the 50 litres of 4000km old chrono i have in the garage on ebay

Nice times!!! well done!

i think you need to let someone else drive your car so you can hear it from the oustide, because your used to your car you cannot really hear the toughness or notice it. This happened to me, got a few videos and then realised damn she does sound tough as! Try it

yeah or my gizzmo k-mon

i want the 15w50 competition stuff.. id be happy with 10+ litres if i can.

get a GT3564r (gt35r with .64 rear housing) this turbo will do 250 to 320rwkw reliably and be fun to drive as well. 550cc's are fine for your application as well. GTR pump is fine. Vipec ecu adds a extra 50kw Don't bother worrying about the internals, as a stock one should reach 280rwkw without any issues what so ever. so just upgrade the injectors and turbo setup, make sure you have a decent cooler etc etc and off you go... 125psi says you have low compression so unless your engine is in bad health (do a leakdown test) then its possible that its been built already to take punishment, try getting a torch and looking down the spark plug, put engine on TDC and look in cyl #1, rb25 pistons have a domed top, if your piston has a dish then you can pretty much say its not standard. (unsure on the rb25de though........)

hahahaha!!

ECU Firmware Release Notes IMPORTANT Please read this document carefully. It outlines new features and fixes for all released ECU Firmware versions. Make sure you understand these changes and take the necessary steps to check and initialise all new features. After reading this document, close this window to continue with the firmware upgrade. NOTE: DO NOT attempt a Firmware Upgrade within one day of a race meeting. Adequate time should be allowed to solve any problems that may arise. ECU Firmware Updates and Fixes WARNING: Once an ECU has been upgraded to V4.3.2 there is no going back to a previous version. Be sure to allow adequate time to set up new features and solve any problems that may arise. Firmware Version 4.3.2– 1/12/08 Fixes Rotary Trailing Ignition. With the Ignition selected to "Rotary - Leading Wasted" only the front trailing matched the split table. The rear trailing split always lagged 12 degrees behind. Firmware Version 4.3.1– 26/11/08 New Features Suzuki Swift VVTi trigger decoding added. Firmware Version 4.3.0– 20/11/08 New Features ECU on-board datalogging. Number of logged parameters is fixed with adjustable logging rate and activation method. Wide Band Closed Loop Lambda using AFR Target Table. Audi 5 Cylinder 135 tooth trigger decoding. Key-On Speedo sweep function. Baud Rate adjustable. 115200, 57600. Password Protection. Fixes NB Closed Loop. Temperature channels other than ECT and IAT showing incorrect values when in a fault state. Ford BA XR6 Turbo Cam control. Changes You can now select the number of active Fuel Drives when Staged Group Injection selected.

Yeah but thats to tune a power fc, I have done a complete Power FC remap in r33's which have had bigger injectors in less then a hour, have done sooo many of them I can get them knocked over in no time at all ohhhhh santa has come early this year!!! I will be uploading that this weekend

i have noticed a few differences with the power fc on drivablility, and mainly those differences will be noticed on any map sensor ecu, most of those differences i have been able to iron out during the first few days of driving it around. That is not supported yet, I am not sure if santa will bring it with the new firmware update either Its the time that costs the most when it comes to a dyno tune, the tuner cannot quote a tune based on how easy the ecu is to tune. If he quotes $500 for a tune then he gets $500 for the tune, he cannot say ohh but this and but that and its going to cost you $1000 to drive away your car. The initial setup of the ecu is the same as most ecu's... timing needs to be setup, ignition needs to be setup for your car and it takes the same time to put the car on the dyno and strap it down with quick tune or without it. QT is mainly only usefull for the cruise load cycles and driving, all full boost and power load points do need to be checked manualy another thing to take into consideration, that with QT its not just a matter of driving on the load cell and then bang your done, the car will get from 80deg to 95 deg in less then 5 minutes then you need to cool the car down for another 5 minutes or so and then check it before you continue. So yeah there has been a few load points on QT that i could have probly tuned quicker myself but most of the time QT is faster but cruise is only 40% of the map. I would think that $500 to $1000 would be a fair price for a full vipec tune depending on the car / tuner

I will be in for that. Group buy.. do you use the Lemans or the comp ?

15 months later i am still using the same oil. I have not had one engine failure and I can be known to give my engine a hard time. I have had to replace my crank (issue with the keyway because of a buil stuff up) and all the bearings were fine, they still had the new markings on them and looked like new. I have seen many engines fail in the last 15 months, none of them were using Motul 300v Chrono. 300v = alive & happy engine IMHO.

smalltech dribbletech

i love reading little puzzles and adventures like this. Think of it like this, your trying to put together a 10,000 piece jigsaw puzzle with only 7,000 pieces. wait for it... .... With your eyes closed. Hope this helps.

for your car, the Nistune is the ONLY way to go.

yeah i can imagine how busy you would be this time of year, Kmon is great! I have used it 4 times now... but i will be running it full time in the car with outputs to to the v44 for knock controll (or test it and see how well it works) I won't need to connect the kmon to the laptop to make it work either, it just needs power. So i can run the +5v on the expansion cable to a cut usb cable plugged into the KMON to just power it up, because the KMON saves your previously used settings every time i power up the ECU it will power up the KMON and use it as the knock interface instead of buying ray's addon and I will have far better knock sensors then the standard ones.. Kinda overkill but we will have to test it and see if it works properly. KMON outputs 0 - 5 volts so setting up to a dyno should be a piece of cake

no issues here, i am using a 5 bar external map sensor because the 2.5 bar is not big enough

yeah.. there is no hand controller option for it, but there are a couple of dash options if you wanted them, the AIM dash costs about 2 grand i think and Ray Hall has made a cable to suit it.

I got hold of a V44 Plug in and decided to take the plunge and install it in my car. I have been happy with my power fc for all these years but it is time to move onto bigger and better things. Firstly, i went for the V44 plug in, reason for this is because i wanted to make try it out and make the change over as simple as possible. SO i recieved the ecu, it comes just i board form. So it took around 5 minutes or less to install it into the standard R33 GTST ecu case. Pics of the ECU installed in case Was time to wire it in, i purchased the additional expansion harness because i had to wire in the 5 bar map sensor, and also the inlet air temp sensor. Wiring in external 5 bar Map Sensor (Mr Dirt doing what he does best, thanks for your help mate!!) Inlet air temp sensor was able to screw in where i had my old WMI jet setup, seeing that i decided to sell this kit i was cheering i had something to put in its place SO setting up the timing on this thing was a breeze!!! Its not like the power fc where you have to set the load cells to 10deg and then change the timing untill its on 10deg, you get the timing light, put it on the car.. then all you do is lock the timing and increase the offset number +or- untill the timing is dead on!! This took 20 seconds to get it right. Once timing was set, was time to put car on the dyno Okay car is on and ready to go, Thanks to Mr Adnum @ Hunter All Wheel Dyno for the dyno at late notice! Time to tune!! Tuning was a breeze!!! It was like tuning a power FC but you do not have to set the numbers, the numbers get set for you! I had my techedge air fuel ratio meter connected to a 0-5v input on the ECU and started quick tune and boy was i impressed with how quick this thing works!!! As you can see the software looks great!!! it has a set of configurable gauges that you can do WHATEVER you like with, you can even set them up to display anything you want!!! The autotune box you can see, the 2 dials, one is the target AFR for the load point your on and the other is the actual AFR, just watching them get close together and then read "target reached" put a big smile on my face, damn this is lazy tuning!! but i LOVE IT "waiting waiting waiting waiting waiting... Target Reached" Next load cell.... "waiting waiting waiting waiting waiting... Target Reached" etc etc This was great!!! So i had to take some videos of this happening and post them up as well because i think this is a great feature of this ecu and it does it sooo damn well its just crazy!!! http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=wys6yVF_o2Q http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=HxKu9Uvt0sU The rev limiter i hit was actually a temp rev limiter, i set the ecu to hit limiter when the engine coolant temp gets up to 90deg... and it hit on the dyno pretty easily.. Yeah I must say i am pretty impressed with this ecu, I also puchased a 7" Touch screen for the car because this ecu has no hand controller to view the engine temps etc etc and i like to see whats going on I have a car pc setup to run the vipec software, i also have the vipec dash software which i will be using for it... and video... http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=68FZLd2IYHs I did not have too much time on the dyno, so i just tuned it to have safe AFR's to get me going, i have been tweaking it a bit on the street and playing with the VCT cut in and out time etc and it seems to be driving as good if not better then the Power FC was. This was a major concern for me so I am pretty happy with it. Those runs on full boost, let me explain why the AFRs are wavy like that, all i did to get the fuel set on full boost was set the dyno to load up at 5000rpm, tuned ONE load point to read 11.8afr, then highlighed ALL the load points from there on and put in that same number. This ecu uses the target AFR map and it gave me a AFR between 11.7 to 12.0 on full boost. I could not believe that this happened... SO i just left the tune like that for now as i am not really keen on giving the car a hard time untill its tuned properly next time on the dyno. For a ecu that was soo easy to install and setup, i am pretty impressed with how it goes, the best thing about this ECU is that if i ring Ray Hall and ask him a question, instead of getting beaten down and told to read the f**king manual and f**k off, he actually takes the time to help you and tell you anything that you need to know and gives you great advice, it does not feel like he is trying to get you off the phone because he has lots of work to do it feels like he wants to keep you on the phone longer to chat more. Very impressed! I have been getting great support from the Vipec dealer that it had made the switch over pretty quick and easy. So yeah its good to see this kind of support, honestly I was not expecting anything like it. SO yeah a big thumbs up for the VIPEC V44 Plug in. More dyno tuning and tests to come, i still need to interface my Gizzmo KMON to the VIPEC to run full knock controll (yes it can be done) Once again, thanks to Wayne at Hunter All Wheel Dyno for the short notice dyno hire and help on the day! I love his dyno

this will be the best advice you will get. Take that computer out, burn it. Get a Autronic / Motec / Vipec computer & install it. get it tuned and enjoy your car. If you keep playing around with the microtech you will end up spending a shitload more money on the car for no reason. Change the ecu. change it NOW. end of rant

bush bearings?

start saving your money. If you continue to disrespect your rb26 like this your going to need a rebuild.