Caelen

Sold please delete.

At this stage would like to try sell it as a complete setup, if it's not gone in a week I will look at separating it all and listing prices and pics of each item.

Stripped motor down last night. Block destroyed, cylinder 2 rod through the side and piston damage. (unfortunate as was a forged setup) head untouched. So only the top end complete rb25 twin turbo setup, with vgc head around 20k on head only. Exhaust is a full stainless 1 piece. Full setup with everything to convert Rb25 or rb30 to a twin turbo. Including ARP stud kit cometic head gasket Braided turbo lines with all fittings also have a Greddy electronic boost controller Asking $2500 but too big too post located Penrith NSW.

Deposit taken on gearbox setup.

WILL TAKE OFFERS!

On offer is a 3000km old re401a 4 speed box built and supplied by gzm automotive with all the upgrades. Comes complete with all wiring, b&m quick shifter, 3500rpm stall converter, Flex plate, external cooler and drive shaft to suit skyline r33. box will bolt up to rb30 block. I was running it in a r33 with 30/25 combo for a very short time with only 240kw/atw. In as new condition. Built to handle over 350kw/atw. I payed over $4500 for the setup going for a fraction of the price! It is a full manulised auto with 4th gear on a switch, was the other option to a C4 setup for $9000. Asking $3000 I also have the complete motor I was running but was pulled out due to blown bottom end... Will strip sell in parts or complete. 25/30 combo with... Nistune ecu (was just tuned with reciepts $750) Less than 10k old twin garret gt2560r turbos with manifold to fit rb25 head ($2600 worth with polished rb26 intake) Complete exhaust including dump pipes (mostly stainless) and custom 02 sensors with inovate lc1 to suit. All pipe work including fmic, bov and z32 afm. Rb25 head complete with adjustable cam gear etc. Blown forged rb30 bottom with less then 20k pistons may be ok but im uncertain. Custom plenum, fuel rail with 550cc injectors. 65mm Throttle body, catch can, few other bits and pieces. Asking $4000 for the motor with all bolt ons or make offers on parts seperatly. Located penrith nsw

Quick chance for someone to snap up a good setup for a fraction of what I have paid, with minimal outlay. I originally took the car to a less desired trans shop in Penrith (bad move) who quoted min $1200 and told me they had never actually had 1 in before. So I went off their advice and bought another setup. Was later recommended to someone that actually knew what they were doing, and did the wiring and fitment of my new one. If I get someone genuinely interested I will supply the shop number that fitted my new one and they can call and confirm. The manual valve bodies are $550 alone + $500 for the stally. If I get it fixed it will go in my brothers turbo GQ.

Drivers seat belt? Posted 2750 nsw

Up for grabs is a fully manualised RE401a auto box with 3200rpm stall converter box was supplied by MV autos with receipt to go with. The box was in my 25/30 combo but unfortunately the fella just plugged it in without the manual shift control so it lasted not even 2000km's before 3rd & 4th clutch let go, 1st and second still fine, wired in properly they are an easy 350kw setup. Spoken to trans shop and has estimated repair at min $300 the original purchase was over well over $2500 will supply contact if wanted. Will not be on offer long or I will have the work done and keep. $600 FIRM pickup Penrith nsw

Not sure if it's a bit late, but you still have ignitor cover?

Would you sell bare block and head no bolt ons?

Didn't have much time to leave it with them due to working hours and being able to pick it up. They had it a few hours did a safe tune on 10psi @241kw/atw has a bucket load more potential just needs an aftermarket ecu, tried running it on 18psi but cant get the niztune ecu to feed more fuel under high boost even with the software Mark was using just wouldn't let any more through. So no power run on high boost until I work out what to do.

Up for sale is a GZM built Re401a auto gearbox Has around 5000km's (and well under 2 years old) due to prior owner plugging it straight up to standard electrics has caused 3rd and 4th, clutch bands to burn out. Fully manualised built box with 3900rpm stall converter setup is rated for 350kw. Was quoted around $500 for repair. Still have $4000 receipt for it. Pickup Penrith area nsw. Box was only slipping past 2nd gear still selects reverse A1 and will be an easy fix due to being removed as soon as fault was found, no use as I have bought another one, prior to knowing what was wrong and what it was. (good waste of another 4k) $1500Neg

So car went to MRC at castle hill, got it back all running A1, was rich as hell and miss firing like crazy, got a false reading from fpr due to it only been in use for the NOS, guys did a really good job and car runs beautifully now! The best shop I have been to for guys who know skylines!

So that issue sorted, car runs 3 pumps, 1 for nos and 2 for general supply one external one internal. Got that issue sorted and have the 2 pumps running that should. I now get a reading of 20psi but with other switch hits 100psi? Reacts and drops like it should but no fuel pressure with the 2 pumps, getting the voltage it needs? Now revs as it should (bit rich) but will break down on boost and i dont want to push it with such low readings

I tried 3 seperate times 1st time dropped gradually over 25 sec period, next 2 tries it didnt move?

Voltage is a constant 14.8, no difference when the vacuum line is taken off in regards to pressure reading.

Ok, will throw a volt meter on when I get home and post up what it's getting on idle and under load. I am relatively sure I have ruled out the possibility of a sensor fault and really does feel like it's not getting the fuel it needs. I have held the fuel return line with a set of pliers and the motor on idle sounds stronger and more full if that makes sense but no difference in the rev range, with the bogging issue still the same, it is as if it's getting fuel as when in gear and the accelerator pressed past that point it wont die but will sit for a bit sounding like its on 2 cyl without stalling until I let off again if I pump the accelerator under load it will rev a little more but will start to pop and miss. I'm thinking if the wires to the fuel pump crossed and shorted (and the fuse blew) could this still have caused damage to the pump that may only be evident under load??

It is running standard in tank pump to push fuel to surge tank in boot, then a Bosch pump under the bonnet, no idea why it is on a switch I was scratching my head at the same thing (stupid idea! considering it's just spliced into the standard wiring for the pump so remote power/ecu controls the unit switching on via relay as standard). Regulator gauge reads a constant 45psi if it was a fuel pump voltage issue would I be correct in saying if it was to lean out under load the regulator pressure would drop to show this happening? I get what your saying in that as the car requires more fuel the pump has to work harder to get it there with the same pressure (hence draws more power). So if it was a voltage issue I would see the gauge drop as it needed more fuel as it wouldn't supply the power. Correct?

Sorry to start a new thread but from what I can find is evey1 elses issues seem to vary... R33 running RB30/25 combo, z32 afm, chipped ecu, bosch pump, Twin turbos, Greddy EBC, Built manualised auto box. So as it goes.. drove car home from gearbox shop (after new box fitment) parked in driveway (car drove beautifully and was pretty much nursed home), came out next morning to check on dash wiring as cluster is not working, not knowing the the fuel pump switch is on the dash, long story short crossed fuel pump wiring as it was dodgy as shit (EEk), found the blown fuse replaced and re-assembled went to start it and the following really hesitant in starting needs a bit of throttle to coax it into running then idles ok but wants to die every 30secs if not given a squirt on idle, wont boost under load but will rev freely on a single squirt but if pumped to rev up will cough and splutter. Under load wont boost can hold the throttle open 1/10th and seems to go ok but the second it goes down further dies out and feels like its on 2 cylinders but if accelerator pumped under load seems to want to go a little better but don't want to push it to detonation as still coughs and farts!!! So this resulted in the following New spitfire coils New plugs (0.8mm gapped) replacement (tested ok) ignition module New z32 afm (and computer reset will stall when afm unplugged) Pressure reg reading steady @ 45psi Tried a known good Ecu (worse result and doesn't want to idle at all...) Replaced CAS Checked timing hasn't slipped (from top view seems ok, wound the motor over a good 8 times to see that marks lined up (didn't want to pull balancer to get cover off so viewed from top cam marks) Hooked up Ecu talk software and no faults and read outs seem ok, pic attached of car on idle. I'm desperate for an answer! About ready for it to go to the shop... Was thinking Racesolutions as im in the Penrith NSW area?

Please delete post car sold.

I have a fella I know who does vehicle backloading, could get it to you for around $400?

Had a look into it and made some calls. What was said above is correct, I do not actually own the car but the right to register the vehicle and use in my name until the interest is cleared. It is not illegal to sell a car in NSW with outstanding finance. Up to the buyer... The car is not currently at risk of being repossessed (happy to provide all detail in regards to financial interest) I have contacted the financial provider and the loan is being serviced. Keep it on the road, track car or wreck it out. I will look at wrecking the car out in the coming week or 2 if no-one is interested in it.

Thanks mate, will look into it now, don't know what to do with it SALE ON HOLD UNTIL I FIND OUT THE LEGAL SIDE OF SELLING IT If anyone can shed light would be appreciated!

On offer is my 93 gts-t R33 Skyline Motor replaced 3 months ago with low k replacement (Timing belt, everything changed when motor went in). 165,000km's on car 102,000 on motor 5 speed manual (new clutch with motor) June 2014 rego New Walbro 255 pump New 4% tint all round On black rims not ones shown Front mount BOV Turbo timer Full exhaust system Fairly clean drives very well and has been my daily. No use for it anymore as I have just got my other one back on the road. No stereo. Different steering wheel and wheels fitted then shown. UNFORTUNATLY WHEN I PURCHASED I DIDNT REVS CHECK, CAR HAS FINANCE ON IT. IF IT DOESNT SELL I WILL CASH REGO AND PART IT OUT (Paid $6500 prior to replacing the motor 6 months ago) $4000 for quick sale (selling for parts value and you get rego to drive it for a few months) I may take offers. 0404338527