webber

As a 33 driver & racer, i hate to say it but they are getting dirt cheap on the road undamaged and registered. $8k is a bit pricey considering the marketplace... good luck with the sale tho man.! as LTHLRB says for the little bit of money you can eventually get for them after trying to sell em, your probably just as well trying to hang on and keep it...

PM me some details, i am very interested....

will you seperste? i would take a pair...

yeah thanks for all the PM's i am keen to get some, had a fair few PM's thanks guys!! really keen to get some!!! might have found some in melb

Hey guys if any one has rims, even if it is only a pair, as i am after atleast 6 rims (3pairs even) to put my race radials onto!!! anyone with any please PM i don't car what they are as long as they fit.!

How many KM's old is it?

what width are the tyres? how worn are they?

yeah very interested, i will be keen to buy this. does it have any approvals for race? likewise, how many point is it? does it go through the dash?

What condition is the head in? very keen where in melb are you?

$250 and make deposit first thing tomorrow???

try screwing up the idle adjuster screw a little... check AFM & TPS, vacuum leaks, and also if the car sat a bit make sure the fuel isn't stale, maybe throw in some injector cleaner... i had an RB30DET do the same thing. but after it ran for a bit it came good...

i have had this happen on a mates engine before, the CAS had a broken shaft onto the cam, seemed to pull out fine most of the time when i thought it was suspect and checking it, then one day pulled it out and only half came out. split where the roll ping thing joins it. i assume that at revs (got to the point it was doing it at idle) that the timing was jumping around everywhere ... simply replaced it and wammo

actually on occasion my R34 engine does this too (in my R33) has done it twice when it has been over about 40 degree days and parked at work when i have gone to lunch. i thought it was something to do with the heat & my Power FC, a little rev for a min and it clears up fine, but yes also very unbalanced cylinder down sounding. My engine has around 15,000 km's on it and when i brought it (from a 7000km wreck in japan 2001mdl) i replaced timing belt and everything (as i had it had been sitting since 2002).

i have an IKEYA adjustable lower arm for camber & caster rod (as one unit), the car is being set up for race. I would like some rear craddle bushes, a recomended set of adjustable Stabiliser bars to suit, and a full sperical rod-end swaybar link kit. and the rest of the bushes needed to replace the remaining std bushes in the car. Will mainly be at Winton & phillip island, calder on occasion. can you help me SK?? please PM if you could. Thanks

Do i have to be an SAU vic member to compete in the SAU events? i already have CAMS & ASSA licenses... I will be at the DECA Sprints & Winton Round for sure!

I use a power Fc on my R34 Neo engine in my R33, as i removed the traction control and a heap of the other crap (Not to mention originally it was an auto engine)... so after halving the size of the loome and the inputs /outputs to the std. ecu, i found it didn't run as smooth and had to go to a power Fc, it does the job and it does it well. I would however like to try the Ultimate, and was wondering if anyone had used it with S15 480cc injectors, greddy plenum and other basic mods? How user friendly is it for Skylines? I brought my ecr34 PFC just before they stopped and i am spewing now that i never got one for my rb25 s1 R33 Racecar as well... It has the above mentioned mods, and if i knew i could run the above basic mods and a few others it has to produce around the 230rwkw mark i would get one. Most tuners i have talked to are more confident with the PFC.

i brought one of these, and are actually surprised in the quality, everyone was saying how shit the casting is, the quality of the casting as in strength etc (ie, no air bubbles and no cheap chalky alloy cast) is very comparable to the Greddy original i have fitted to a road car. You rub it back and it is quiete smooth with few 1mmx 1mm air pockets/ pitting... lucky if it is 1 every 50mm. The finish is rough, but that is only cosmetic, 6 hours polishing and mine is smooth and shiny on the outside. another few hours with the Die grinder and some 30mm flap wheels cleaned out the intake ports,then i match ported them. used a flexible extension and cleaned as far into the manifold as i could My STD fuel rail never bolted straight up, the 3 bolt holes fitted, but the two closest to the cylinder head did not line up, so i got a piece of 15mm flat aluminium and countersunk some capscrews to clear the fuel rail, bolted it down, and then taped the thread for the top two bolt holes (closest to head). Worked a treat, and the injectors have sealed nicely. I sourced all the barb fittings required from work, and are working on plumbing it up at the moment, i will get some pics and a walk through of the process during this weekend. plus i will include a list of what hose barbs are required to plum it up. Look yeah there is some more work with this, but after all you pay between $255 (SAU group buy) & $500. a few hours labour and the finish looks better than the std untouched Greddy. and i can only imagine it would flow very simular. (i am not taking the Original one off to get them flow tested either.. lol) If your prepared to do some work, cheap front facing intake, as for performance, you will notice a little more response and a little less lag. i only got this one for the race car because i hate changing spark plugs and i recently face the usual Coil Pack issues...

Hey mate, i will take this, PM me details and we can go from there

hmm $600 if your interested pm me...

pm me when you want to sell it to me... i made you an offer a little while ago...

As for the post above, is it worth it? well i dunno it will only be in my racecar 33.. It's motor is starting to get a bit sad and we've got 2 spare stocko det motors without accesories... i am really just interested to see what difference they make and what quality they are... i will let you all know... lol

damn, i just payed $350 from E-bay.. if the one i ordered is any good i will definatly be getting one of these as a spare!!!

I just purchased one of these, i was tossing up between it and the nice shiny JUN style ones on E-bay, i know these are a bit crappy, but worth a try for the price, i am not expecting allot when it arrives. i am just disapointed i never got in on the SAU group buy... i think it's $195 delievered.. not bad... when i had to pay $350... if it is any good i will buy another $200 one as a spare if it does crack or break... My only concear is if it does crack that bits of cast will go straight into my engine... I guess we'll have to wait and see... When get mine i will take pics of the whole job...

how many km's have the coils done? are there any cracks on them? also how much for the whole engine & coils?

how much for the whole car?