Pete K

NICE!!!!

WOW that sure is one very tidy setup, i wish under my hood looked like that, its so hard to find a tidy skyline. Part of this prep work im doing is involving removing everthing i can from the motor, degressing it, painting it, cleaning the engine bay and putting it all back together. but my baby has markes and holes cut in her everywhere.

Thanks for the input , i know manufacturers only build for just outside the warranty period, not because they dont give a crap or can do no better but because in order to remain competitive they must reduce costs and ensure there brands future. Longevity is a really hard balance for manufacturers, last to long and it wont be replaced and wont be affordable, or make it really cost effective and end up with a bad reputation due to reliability issues. this issue is what has made it so hard for Australian manufacturing trying to compete with low overseas wages. My understanding is most modern cars run electric thermos as it is a far more controllable way to manage the engines running temperatures. Like you said emissions are such an issue that they need the cars to run as hot as possible and within a very tight temp band. having said that, the r33 thermo i believe is a 76.5 deg c. is this when it starts to open or when its fully open? and at what temp should i try to keep the car. ive herd people running around with temps ranging from 75 to 110. Surly there is a recommended temp if i put an 85 degC thermo switch in the bottom of the radiator i guess the block temp will be well over 90deg leaving the motor before the fan decides to start. if that makes sense

im going to have a vented bonnet and i want to lift the rear of the bonnet near the windscreen about 15mm to let the heat out, as it may not always be practical to leave the bonnet open, track days for sure it will be left up. the thermo fan will blow a face washer off the standard throttle body with the bonnet open so im sure there is some benifit on having it on if the air has some where to go once stopped did you put a manual bypass in your system? cheers

Yeh, i really dont want it constantly turn on and off, every time it moves 1 degC

Im hoping the fan should do ok, it will suck an A4 paper against the intercooler when its 400mm in front of the intercooler, i have some wide sticky foiled bituman flashing i was going to fully seal it up with but it sucks so strong i dont want it to be sucked in, so i just made an aluminium shroud on the top heres a few pictures,

Hi All, I had a bit of a look around and it seems there is allot of debate about electric thermo's so i dont really want to open a can of worms but im after some advice. Seeings as im preparing my car as a dual purpose machine, as a daily and for the track i have recently installed a new 40mm ally radiator, and changed the thermostat to the highflow version. when the other day I noticed that the fan was always on high speed even at start up, i had a close look at the clutch and it looked to be a sealed unit but noticed some cracks in the fan blades, and that it was out of balance due to someone before me cutting the blades for the fmic piping. So i decided to do an electric thermo fan conversion for 2 reasons, the new fans worked cheaper then the clutch assembly and more importantly i wanted the fans to continue to run on after i shut the car down to aid heat soak and aid with the waters thermo cycling to help protect the turbo. Im just wondering what others have used to cycle the fan on and off. im thinking of a temperature switch. i can buy one like i read on the forum thats on at 85degc and off at 80 deg c, but it looks like the only place to put it would be where the temp switch is to put on the ac thermo on in the lower drivers side of the radiator. I have an ally pipe fitting that will be going in my top radiator hose for my temp gauge sender but im unsure of the correct placement of my fan temperature switch. What have others found works best for fan control? i like the simplicity of the basic temp switch. Has anyone used the PowerFC to control the fan as this would be ideal. I cant figure out how to do this and im not even sure if its possible What makes this hard is im unsure of my cars normal operating temperatures, and if it constantly wants to sit on 85deg i dont want the fans running all the way along the free way, By the way i couldn’t fit the au dual fans in due to the power steering lines, but i managed to fit a bf-fg single fan in there. Ive only run it with my little prawing battery that was running at 11.3v and the fan was unbelievable, cant wait to see it at 13.5v any advice would be great, Cheers Pete

ill be buying an ATR43ss1PU with a .86 turbine and an 18psi actuator, im told this should be good for the 300-350hp im chasing and should be ok on the track and skid pan.

My tuner is fine, he said right from the start that he really had his doubts about the turbo, but seeing as im on a limited budget we were just trying to make what i had reliable. the problem is every time the car starts to perform we had these issues. New turbo should arrive in the next week or so and we can see what happens

Well had a good day today, removed the existing turbo which was good timing as all the hoses connecting it were about to fail, water line split and drained the radiator for me which was fun, one down side for having your own hoist is you can stand under stuff as it leaks , I spent a fair bit of time talking to Stao today from hypergear, he is very confident my issues are from a shit turbo where the exhaust housing is to small for the compressor, he recommended high flowing my turbo or getting another. After telling him what i wanted he advised me to go for an ATR43ss1PU with a .86 turbine and an 18psi actuator and i wont be using any boost control. im exited by the prospect of getting the turbo but im really nervous about running 18psi in a car that has had constant issues running 14 and 16psi. im worried with an 18psi actuator i wont be able to wind the boost down to reduce detonation. Stao is confident that i can manage this by reducing the timing to allow for the extra boost, I dont doubt what he is say is doable but i have not though of or heard of this before, Is this a common way to tune,

the motor sounds really good and does run along nice which is why i bought it, ill ring hypergear today and see what we can do about another turbo, i can always transplant it after all if the motor dies

I have no issues buying another turbo, but am a little concerned if it doesnt fix the issues i then need perhaps a head rebuild, or somthing more significant. 225k+ on a motor that im guessing has had a hard life, im thinking everything may be worn out and rather then a costly complete rebuild a low mileage motor might do the trick,

Im currently running 0.7 or .8 i think just the standard gap not the 1.1's, i just the cheap copper ones. i cant remember the number at the moment, how does one prove its valve float? and whats involved in correcting it? Im wondering if its worth buying a low km used engine or just working with what ive got. but i guess there is no real way of knowing the next motor would be any better

No thats fine mate thanks for your honesty, i just didnt want to be guessing, as you can tell im very green