FurryBarry

Hmmmmm, What the f**k is going on here? Can someone change this to text we can read? hang on, here we go: hey guys (I'm not a mechanic just a backyard enthusiast) Fixed it today. Things you will need. Flat blade screwdriver Phillips Screwdriver (small tom thumb style) 1M of Fuel line (5/16th's) 2 Clamps 1 roll of electricians tape Rag to clean up any spills My pipe was split so I didn’t have to drain the line beforehand. Because of this it had little to no pressure in it. IF you do. 1:To do this just pull the fuse for the fuel pump from the rear fuse bay. 2: crank over engine. It will try to start (possibly rev to 300 rpm) do this twice 3:/1A Disconnect the negative line from the battery Fuel and sparks don’t mix If you don' just go from here. First thing to do is get the car up off the ground. As you will be laying on it for a bit. I used car ramps that I have. 1: Remove the metal cover over the top of the fuel tank access area. 2: Undo the clamp from around the fuel pipe in question and remove the clamp 3: Pull the pipe off the nipple. This can be a little tight. But just take your time. 4: Get your length of new fuel line. Tape this to your old fuel line with the electricians tape. 5: Now onto the ground you go. Goto the Drivers side under the rear wheel. 6: If you look along the undercarriage of the car you will see (in my case) 4 metal lines running from the front of the car to the back. The middle 2 are the fuel lines. The outer 2 are the break lines. Follow them back to where the Rubber pipe from the fuel tank connects to these metal lines. 7: The bottom one is the line TO the engine. Top is line from the engine. Pull through the line that you are replacing. Just till the new line comes through as well. This will also bring through the new line with it. Since it is attached. 8: Go back up to the top of the fuel tank. Attach and clamp the top part of the fuel line. Really force it on hard so that it goes all the way over the nipple. 9: use the tom thumb screwdriver to undo the line underneath the car. The use the Flatblade to help you remove the old fuel line. There may still be fuel in this so watch out. Unwrap the new fuel line and remove the old one from the car. 10: Test fit the new line. Cut it so that it leaves enough room for it to fit snugly but NOT tight or loose. 11: Attach the new fuel line to the exposed nipple and clamp just like was done with the same line above the fuel tank. 12: Re attach the battery line. Turn key to ON (don't START!) this will fill the new line with fuel and give you the chance to check out the new line you have just put in for any leaks. 13: Once inspected and happy with outcome (no leaks). Start car and take for a drive around the block. 14: Once back. Turn car off and check out the lines just to make sure that everything is all good. 15: Re attach metal cover above fuel tank and your all good to go

PM'ed you. Happy new year.

personal message sent.

Yeah, manual says model number F160. Completely different critter, so stupid question on my behalf. I do believe that there are such a thing as R160 mechanical LSDs kicking around in Dattos and Subaru WRXs. I wonder what sort of splining they use? Heh, would be funny to see the look on the face of wrexy drivers. Basically I'm a tightarse and I'm trying to find a cheap way to get front LSD. Anyone got a subie diff schematic? Hmm the carriers in these pommy sube forum photos look the same as the gtr schematics

Hey Kids, I've scored a Cusco 2 way LSD which has gone into my R32. Does anyone have advice on whether it is possible or advisable to use the stock rear centre to replace the open front diff? As far as I know the stock LSD is a 2 way jobbie, and I'm worried that it'll cause understeering under brakes in tight corners. I don't know if shimming the clutch packs loose would avoid this or if it's possible to alter the standard ramps. Has anybody tried this? Thanks in advance. You are all beautiful.

I'll take em, personal message has been sent.

Thanks for the encouragement knore and thanks for the translate Rezz. It's looking a bit more like Japanese Mad Max than I first thought.

Got some piccies of the wheels?

I'd trade you my daewoo for them, but then I'd have nothing to bolt em too.

Pics of core available? Internal fin type and construstion? Cheers.

Anyone ever cut'n'shut a GTR sump either to remove the diff or otherwise? I'm attempting to shift the front diff forward so as to get the engine as far back as possible.

Are there any Nihonjin or otherwise out there that know anything about this monster? I'm trying to do something similar (though with 600 less neds), so yell out if you've got any info.

With regard to a wheels clearing brake calipers, it has more to do with the shape of the wheel centre itself than offset. Though of course a wheel with negative offset is more likely to be shaped away from the hub and brakes than one with a large positive offset.

Ah. Cheers for that. It makes more sense.

As far as I know, the open wheelers use the sidewalls as the major moving suspension component. Ultra tricky sidewall design means it is spring and damper in one. Unsprung weight becomes only the outer part of the tyre. The aim of suspension (on a racer anyway) is tyre control. This way the tyres control themselves. Downforce also contributes. More sidewall trickery allows the 100's of kg downforce to squash the tyre and give a larger contact patch than with low stiff sidewalls. V8 Supertaxis have a 68 profile bag which they need because they run a crap Watt's linkaged live axle rear end. Front end went to double wishbone in 2002(?)but they have to run the same tyre all round. Off a racetrack, in a road car on 18inch 35 series you get good at dodging potholes.

Anyone have experience improving the 4wd on their R32 GTR? How does your aftermarket torque split controller feel? The 33's transfer case clutch pack is partially engaged at all times. This should be achievable with the 32's transfer case as well by using enough of the thicker packers in between clutch plates. I haven't got an r33 manual to check the figures. Anyone who has, please check it out and let me know. Also investigating retrofitting v-spec 33/34 ATTESSA computer for faster reaction.

I've been doing some sniffing around and it seems that the 32's are more tail happy than the 33's due (partly at least) to the tolerances in the transfer case clutch pack. The 33's clutch pack is partially engaged at all times. This should be achievable with the 32's transfer case as well by using enough of the thicker packers in between clutch plates. I haven't got an r33 manual to check the figures. Anyone who has, please check it out and let me know. Also investigating retrofitting v-spec 33/34 ATTESSA computer for faster reaction.

Quick question. Will the rotors fit also fit a GT-R? If so, and you are willing to negotiate price please message me. Thanks.

This link is an interesting read. Deals with modifying torque split control. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0060 GTR's are complicated beasties eh? Revision Ah, sorry for the dodgy link. I'm not subscribed to Autospeed either. If you try this http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&ie=U...+g+sensor&meta= and click on "godzilla tamed" it gives you the complete article for some reason.

Hi all. I'm also looking to upgrade the R32 GTR M-spec brakes on my Z. I can get my hands on R34 brembo rotors and calipers but I don't know if they'll go onto the R32 uprights without a fight. Anyone got some ideas?