DRFTR33

109 in a 60 zone 6 points but i got to keep my licence, so i was cheering :headbang:

you will find you wont get any performance increase from blocking the charcoal canister, it works by storing fuel vapours from your fuel tank and purges them into the intake manifold during light throtle or cruising operations. it is also the breather for your fuel tank so its not the best idea to go blocking off all the hoses. it is a great system and it works very well so why dick with it

its not that hard to diagnose an un balanced turbo the sound is very distictive. it is a high pitched ring that is only present when your on boost and you will hear it over your induction noise. you will want to work this out fairly quickly because if this is hapening on the intake side you can cause alot of damage to your engine due to the small metal filing from the impeller wheel, if its on the exhaust side it wont do any damage to you engine but you can take you dump pipe off and shine a tourch into the exhaust housing and you should see really small metal filling in the carbon. the reason why i ask who did the hi-flow is because i know of a certain company that makes mistakes like this all the time

dude that sounds a bit like an unbalanced turbo. the play in the shaft wont seem like much when you check it but when it comes on boost your impeller/turbine wheel will be geting ramed against the housing. who did the hi-flow for you

all that stuff is all well and good to say but you really cant do anything. if you participate in road rage they find you just as guilty as the other bloke who started it and the second they find out what car you drive it all over. youll end up in court with a bunch of dick head lawyers and cops talking about how because you own a high performance vehicle you have no reguard for your life or anyone elses and the they start acusing you of worshiping adolf hitler and listening to the spice girls.its better just to boost on those holden wankers and leave it at that....well thats my oppinion

it will cost you around $270 for the idler and tensioner, because you cant seperate the bearings you got to buy the whole pully the seals are cheap and make sure you get everything genuine nissan

1995 R33 20 ozzy mechanic

dont report it, the cops are dicks in canberra and will turn it on you just for you driving an imported car. it isnt worth it trust me

the people who told you that it is rediculous to advance your timing have no idea what they are talking about it is a built in safty feature in the standard ecu to retard the timing when you up the boost, but it doesnt just do it alittle bit like what you want, it does it alot to combat the ecu retarding the timing to much you advance your base timing so it cancels it out to an extent sometimes the crank angle sensors can be hard to turn but dont hit it with anything just undo the bolts a little more and pull it towards you and then it should come unstuck

youll be alright just listen for the knocking sound. but it probably is best for you to take it to your mechanic. if you were in the canberra area id tell you to drop in and i could do it for you right now

the problem with SAFC is you cant control the ignition curve. but dont get me wrong they are a very good product. nothing beats power FC

to advance the timing turn the cam angle sensor anti clockwise i cant give you an exact measurment of how far to move it but tri it so the washers on the bolts holding it in are just touching where the slots end ( i hope that made sence

yeah that silver thing on the timing cover is your cam angle sensor which runs off your exhaust camshaft it basicly tells the ecu when to fire each coil and that is what your mechanic will be adjusting. and it is a really good idea to dyno your car afterwards because you will be able to see if anything isnt quite right. at least youll be able to see you power output

you will still need to advance the ignition timing even if you drop the boost a bit you just wont need to advance it as much . when you deside how much boost you want to run just set up your ignition timing and your all set. you will know if you go to far because you will get detonation( which is bad)

yeah that will fix your problem but it will never be as good as a power FC and your new plugs should be fine as long as they are of a colder heat range to standard. i also own a 95 r33 and at first i was over looking after market engine management but i can tell you it is worth every cent

yeah standard ignition timing is 15 degrees befor top dead center. if your going over standard boost expecialy with the series 1 ecu it will do exacly what you describe. dont worry your not the only one suffering from this problem their are heaps of people driving around who havnt got a clue that there is anything wrong. if you are running more boost i also sugest that you run colder plugs. i recomend NGK iraway 7s. those plugs and your ignition timing set up right will make it go like a scalded cat

when you up the boost with the standard ecu it retards your ignition timing and dumps fuel. that popping sound you are hearing is acually a backfire caused by the retarded ignition timing. to counter this you have to raise your base ignition timing to 20 degrees befor top dead centre. hope this was helpfull and if you have the cash buy a power FC

the fuel pump on the r33 is located in the boot of the car and is a pretty simple job to replace it. first thing you do is take everything out of you boot so you have some room to work. on the right hand side you will notice a metal plate with four bolt holding it in and some wiring coming out of it.the fuel pump is under there. Undo the four 10mm bolts and you will then see a bunch of fuel hoses and 2 wiring plugs.all of these have to be disconected, so make sure you mark the fuel hoses if your forgetfull. after you have undone everything you will need to undo the collar holding the pump assembly in(plastic ring thing). do this by turning it anti clock wise and us a hammer and blunt screw driver to help you undo it because they are always tight. once you have done that lift the to off and you will see into the fuel tank. it is easiest now to remove the fuel line and wiring plug for the pump so you have room to work.now all you have to do is reach in and pull the braket up that is holding the pump and lift it out of the tank. there you have it, just fit up your new pump and put it all back together again. hope the instructions were detailed enough with your exhaust it is probably worth while replacing the dump pipe and the cat you should be able to find these second hand for fairly cheap. high flow cats arnt elegal anywere as far as i know as long as your car passes emission laws then your fine. A second hand cat will most likely be stuffed, but if you dont care about poluting the planet just knock out the cat out because im pretty sure you guys dont have road side emission test yet as for the other stuff if you search around long enough you will find what your looking for hope this was helpfull

just make sure its tight or the crank bolt will undo itself and the crank pully will come off. best way is to use a breaker bar and hit it with a hammer and if your still unsure use some lock tight.

yeah thats sweet comming from the man whos never picked up a spanner in his lfe

dude i emission tested my own vehicle, i saw the figures with my own eyes, not to mention everyone else in the workshop. i wouldn't say it if it wasnt true.. the skylines do run very clean even without a catalytic converter as long as you are running standard management your fine... its not like im going out telling people to do it that way thats just how i did it and it works for me

i dont know about everyone else but we just take the catalytic converter off and ram a bar through it and knock out the catalyst... its not legal but it works and skylines run very clean even without a cat, so even if they bring out road side emmision testing it will still pass.