Race__24

If you've got a Viscous LSD or a locker type diff you only need standard diff oil. MOST RWD skyline diffs are Viscous LSD, not sure on the GTRs however. A helical diff I think uses standard diff oil too but I'm not 100% on that. If you have a friction type LSD you need the oil recommended by the diff manufacturer. The friction type diffs include clutch pack diffs, mechanical LSD(oil grade is important to stop shuddering) and conical LSDs

From what I have read around the place bench testing them isn't worth it. If they are only charging $50 to do them they aren't testing them under load or at working temperatures. My guess is it's just a resistance check which can't rule them out as a problem, only at times confirm they are a problem. Swapping them out is by far the cheapest and most definative way. Even if you can only get 1 known working one it doesn't take long to swap it through the 6 different positions. Once you have the coil cover off you can squeeze them in and out without having to undo anything else. All up it should take 2 hours max- that's if the last one you test is the one that's gone. I recon I could do all 6 in my stagea in under 1 hour Also, if you cut off the lip at the back of the coil cover you should be able to get it in and out without removing the crossover pipe making future work easier. Edit: not sure if you can get then in and out as easily on a R34, I've only done it on an R33 S2

I'm guessing these have ceramic exhaust wheels?

Brakes??

Dave, I think he just means to pull the fuse while you're changing it over. I could be wrong but that's how I read it.

If you go for a wireless router, get one that can do 802.11g/n emphasis on the "N" it's up to 300mb/s as opposed to 54mb/s

I've got a nismo Kit on mine. It has press in clips down the side and brackets underneath. There is one or two screws inside the frond guard and a separate cap at the other end which clamps to the inner guard lip and has tabs which interlock with the side skirt.

You're probably best talking to a nissan dealer, see if they can tell you, or make a call and find out. It might say it in one of the manuals I have here but I can't read them!!

No where is cheap in Adelaide, not many places even have stock. If you order from an online shop based in Australia that has stock you should have them in a couple of days anyway. If you need to pick them up right now you'll be paying a premium. If they are for a R33 S2 there are some yellow jacket coil packs for sale in the for sale section.

You can just get a DVD head unit to replace the tape player and run all the sound etc out of it. Then just hook the screen up for displaying the picture. This is what i have done. If you go this option get a dvd-mp3 player. You can fit so many mp3s on a DVD. My player also displays the song and artist information on the xanavi screen. The video input is in the back behind the left hand strut tower (from memory) you will have to remove the interior panel. There is a jack in the front of the stock unit that allows you plug an ipod etc. in. Then you just have to figure out the menus to select the right source. If you do put in another head unit you will loose this function as all the sound will be through the new unit. To have the screen on while driving you will need to get your hands on a device that plugs in between the screen and the main loom. I have no idea what they call them, basically it just intercepts the signals and allows the screen to stay on. Unfortunately there is not a simple wire around solution. The car may have one in it already, mine did.

Try removing your front shafts (easy job, just search for how) If the viration goes away it's something to do with your 4WD system, ie, different sized tyres, needs an altessa bleed, front unis etc. If it stays you need to look towards rear uni joints, trans, diff etc. I wouldn't worry too much about it being a diff, those things are built strong, much more likely to be something else

Will keep this in mind, I'm not really sure what I've got coming up in December yet

Make sure the tyres are all the same size and have a similar amount of tread, It's important that they all have the same rolling dia. for the 4WD system to work properly. It may also have bad/stale fuel, make sure you fill it up with 98-100 octane. If it came with fuel there is no way of knowing what is in there. If it's almost empty (less than 1/4 tank) just fill it up, if it's got much more, go fill a jerry with 98 octane and drain your tank. Changing all fluids should be manditory when buying a new car. Remember the Altessa fluid in the boot, diffs and transfer case as well as the usuals.

That would be nice. Esstek CNC do good work at a reasonable price. (I work there)

Yeah, do the intake pipe mod. You can also get silicon items for around $100 if you want something a bit spiffier. The usual point where the intake pipe becomes a problem is around 230rwkw from memory, but I wouldn't be shocked if it happens earlier on some cars. The compliance cat was probably the cheapest they could find, might be good for as little as 20,000km in a turbo.

Get the second map on the vipec tuned for e85, keep the other as a safe 98 octane tune in case you have to buy fuel between e85 retailers. Make sure it is a slightly rich tune on the 98 premium so that if you run a bit of a mix you won't be leaning out due to e85 being less dense. I want to do this to the stag in the future, just with an emanage instead.

Do you mean scopgot bush??? Tap it to M16(or whatever is suitable) and use a Dowel extractor (slide hammer) to get it out. Or if the hole in it is a thru hole, tap it all the way thru and wind a long bolt in to jack it out. If you can wait till early next week I may be able to help you out with a tap/extractor.

Ps, go aftermarket, Nissan's price is over $100 each, they can be had for under 20. Will be a R33 GTR item.

Well that kindif snuck up, hadn't heard anything for ages. I'll be there if i can.

I think you will find the SK kits are of the shelf, just from a different model with the right valving. ie, r32/r33/r34/sedan etc. I've got R33 gts-t rears in mine, they could be a little firmer, I wonder if 33/34 sedan shocks would suit better. Anyway, not what you're after, that's for a RS4, i thing the 260 etc is different. Call the beilstein Distributor, they will be able to tell you the comparitive specs.

Yeah, black rims are good, wish I could afford another set so i could get rid of my silver/machined rims

That's the one.

I just had a call from my partners mum in a worried state. Apparently there was an accident on the news involving a silver Stagea. Unfortunatly they reperted a fatality. I'm just hopeing it wasn't anyone I know from here, but know that the chances of it being a member are fairly high.

+1 for dodgy gauge. My old 33 gtst gauge would play up from time to time and read about 50% lower than normal. switch the car off and back on and it would sometimes fix itself. Get someone to test it with a mechanical gauge before you go driving it around everywhere.

I've got an old extreme in my shed that has been fried, was in a 200kw car and daily driven. Didn't even do any big launches as it was crap and would slip even from new. I only tried it once and realised it was never going to happen.