Race__24

and yes, it is a dirt road but last time i went out there it wasn't too bad if you take it slow, it's dusty, not rocky

I wrote some directions to Collingrove back HERE If you guys are meeting somewhere before hand send me a PM as i'm keen to come along and meat some of you. Plus it's a nice drive if you go the back way through the hills

I wouldn't mind a run up the barossa to check out the hill climb.

I got a blitz sbc I-D for around $550 from nengun.com. Works sweet! I just had a heap of work done at Tilbrooks, new engine, PFC, camgear and boost controller. I'm happy with the work they did. They compression tested and leak down tested 4 engines, at their expence, before they found me a good one. Not many places will do that.

RHEMAC MOTORS are really good. They are not the cheapest but are the best.

You may need to remind him that simply pulling up next to a car and reving the engine doesn't mean that you are having a race. He may have had a chance dragging my car when the computer shit itself a couple of months back. It was running 30 degrees retarded and had fried rings and turbo. Was making a huge 88rwkw.

I had someone clip my bumper in the ingal farm shopping centre car park. Isn't it amazing how no matter how far away from everyone you park, someone always has to pull up right next to you!

how much without the box?

don't know where this was???????

Here's my rig, she's almost a stocker at the moment

I think JMS had a Cefiro that was being wrecked (the new JMS) try giving Ben a call/e-mail

I had my air-con regassed at the local mech as they were doing regassing cheap. The air-con would only work for 1-2 mins properly before blowing more hot air. I took it into the local Nissan dealer and they discovered that it had been over-gassed causing the system to everheat. i paid them $90 and they regassed the thing properly. it's as cold as ice now...........well almost

Spotted, my R33 on the dyno pushing out a huge 88kw at the wheels! Dam car, just cos it wants attention from my wallet!

Unfortunatly you're gonna have to cross my name off your list. I'm not going to have my car fixed in time Dam, i was looking forward to it too

L is for learning, wind it out a few times and it will go away, and your boost will start to come on quicker after a couple of runs.

I'm keen to come along, haven't been on a cruise with you guys yet. I just gotta sort out my car first, i got a boost leak somewhere which is giving me a huge flat spot.

I know Ben, i Used to ride bikes with him back in the day. Might have to hit him up for some parts

EDIT: whoops, didn't read that properly

anyone?

Double check all your lines as well, i once plumbed up a V8 pollution system the wrong way. The manifold vacuum sucked oil from the heads, through the pollution system and then eventually into the manifold. Boy did i get a scare when i started my freshley rebuilt engine, you should have seen the smoke!!!!!!

I got mine from nengun.com cost around $560 + shipping I got the boost controller and a Tomei exh campully for $848 shipped. In australia you could be looking at anywhere between $900 and $1500 for the boost controller alone

Hi , the other day i spotted a little girl throw open a car door at ingal farm shopping ctr. There was a black R33 sitting next to it. I went over and had a quick look, i don't think it hit, looked bloody close. i wrote down the rego anyway. So if someone on here with a black R33 has fallen victum to this attack PM me

Here are some pics, The messy wireing near the control unit is about to be tidied up as i still have to shorten it by another 400mm. I made up the bracket holds the display. it is simply squashed between the dash and the steering column. If i get pulled over all i have to do is drop the steering column down and shove it up under the dash. I also made up a bracket so i could use an existing hole to mount the solenoid unit. Basically it is a flat piece of 6mm plate with three holes in it. One countersunk hole to suit a M6 socket head countersunk screw in the centre, to attach it to the car body, and one hole tapped M6 either side to attach the unit with socket head cap screws. You could just use one of the supplied bolts in the existing hole and drill another for the other one. I have also attached an English manual if you need it Blitz_SBC_i_D_manual.pdf

I have just installed one of these into my R33. I mounted the solenoid unit down next to the air box(outer side) and ran the hoses under it so they weren't noticable. I cut the wires joining the control unit to the solenoid unit cos what they give you is way too long and it also makes it easier to get it through the firewall.I later rejoined these with connectors and coverd them with black heat shrink tubing for that stock look. i ran these along the factory harness and pokes them through the firewall where all the wires for the computer go. I mounted the control unit on the bottom of the heater box or something(white plastic bit between the glove box and centre consol under the dash.) this could go anywhere you want but i had the restriction of running an extra line for the pressure pick up which was too short to go anywhere else. You should be able to tuck it up behind the dash a bit better than me. Running off the boost guage line should be fine, just make sure the joins are tight. I'll go out and take some picks for you in a sec. Everything looks standard in the engine bay, appart fron about 50mm of bright blue silicon hose but if you really wanted to hide it you could replace this with black hoseing or something

Ok, I have recently installed a Blitz SBC I-D boost controller and now the boost won't stay below 10PSI at high RPM, even with the controller turned off. Any ideas? I plummed a hose straight from the IC piping to the actuator and boost stayed at 8PSI. Re-plummed the controller and it still creaps up over 10PSI. I've double checked the connections to the controller etc. The controller restricts some air as it passes through(when turned off) but i wouldn't think it's enough to cause this. I'm stumped as to what it is so i thought i'd throw it out there and see if anyone else has had the same problem. Some ideas that i've had are: A hole in the hose between the boost controller and the actuator faulty actuator faulty boost controller But basically i have no idea! If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated Thanks