Race__24

hey, if your cat pipe made f*** all difference i'd be putting the thing back on, big fine if you get caught. Around the $10k mark i think.

Offset?????

What boost controller are you running? If you had say an AVC-R you could run just enough boost in each gear for the wheels not to spin/just spin. or just don't plant it all the time

i'll grab one too, money will be in tomorrow sometime

I just got some polish to freshen up my faded R33 lights and was very impressed by how well it worked, so thought i'd give it a rap. The stuff is:- MAGUIAR'S MIRROR GLAZE, 10 CLEAR PLASTIC POLISH This stuff brought my surverly faded lights back to clear and sparkly in under 5mins each. It was recommended to me by the guys at Autopro Gawler and cost me just under $17 for 236ml. Perhaps Will & Duc might want to add this to their service/car wash, just a thought

OK, from town the easiest way is as follows. 1. Go straight up Main North Road 2. Go around the Gawler Bypass and keep heading along the Sturt Highway towards Nuriootpa. 3. You will come to a fairly major turn off to Tanunda on your RIGHT, via Gomersal Road (possibly Highway). Take this all the way to the end. 4. At the end turn LEFT onto the main street of Tanunda. 5. Continue down the street through Tanunda untill you come to a S-bend/railway crossing and turn RIGHT at the SECOND Road. (you want the one that is almost directly ahead, not the one back towards Tanunda) 6. Follow this road for a while ignore the first sign to Angaston(I've oly been that way at night so i don't really know it.) go over a train crossing and past the VINPAC factory on your right. 7. You will come to a cross intersection with a sign saying Angaston to the RIGHT , follow that. This will take you up the Main street. 8. When you reach the end of the main street you must turn RIGHT. 9. Follow this road past the Collingrove Homested, keep going untill you see a sign for the Collingrove Hillclimb on the left. Turn down the dirt road immediatly after the sign. The gate to get in, is on the left, By this time you should have a pretty good idea of what's going on!

Fitted my lock yesturday, had to make a slight adjustment as it just fowled on the subframe, nothing major tho. My mate and i wheel aligned it by eye and got it within 1mm each side! How ARSEY is that!!! An easy $50 for the bloke that wheel aligned it, although my frount end was out by more. Everything is working good so far (touch wood)

Hey, Try asking a crash repairer where to go to get panels dipped. There is a place in Wingfield somewhere where a mate of mine got every removable panel stripped and then electroplated with an anti-rust coating and finally Etch-primed. I'm sure these guys would do something for you, I just can't remember the name. Think it was Midas ??????? but not sure at all.

I'm a toolmaker by trade, but i specialize in CNC machining, CAD modelling of electrodes and EDM operations. That explains the steel. Figured i'd go for P20 as it's pretty much indestructable Actually the aluminium only cost me around $35, through work tho. The full length rods would still be cheaper but they wouldn't look so fancy!

I can't remember what exact grade the aluminium was, i know it was a structual grade tho. The rods are M238 tool steel(P20). I was thinking of making longer rods going directly to the subframe but i thought that i'd replicate the geometry just in case it was critical. Having said that the difference in the angles envolved probably wouldn't be too great anyway.

Yeah, no worries. I should have it on later this week.

I'm tempted to make a couple more but i want to run this one for a while just to make sure it'll do the job. Then after that i'll look at getting a couple made for people.

Hi guys, just thought I'd show off the HICAS lock Kit I Designed and manufactured for my R33. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. It replaces the rack/motor, rose joints attach the new shafts. The other end of the shafts screw into the existing outer joints. I could have got away with screw cutting the original shafts but I wanted the be able to swap back if need be. Tell us what you think Aaron

Yeah, i'm running stock boost. It could be a fuel problem. I'll take the coil packs out and inspect them anyway then check my hoses, then the fuel pump. I just hope it's not one of those thing that i end up replacing everything before finding the problem!!!!

Hi guys, I think i have a problem. when i put my foot to the floor in my R33 GTS-t it's not reving out very smoothly. There tends to be a couple of flat spots between 3000 and 5500 RPM. Is this the problem discussed in the coil problem threads or something different as it isn't backfireing or anything, just lacking a bit of go. There aren't any real mods to the car, just air filter and exhaust. Any help greatly appreciated

I wouldn't have thought that three screws would be sufficient enough to hold the gear in place. not due to the strength of the bolts but because the force is a lateral one. Being ally i would tend to think that after time the bolts might eat into the material, causing them to loosen. Having said that i could be totally wrong, but personally, I like................ OVER KILL!!!!!!

I had a mate of mine go to the cop shop to clear a defect, the steering wheel was too small i think. Anyways he was shitting it. He went inside, told the cop he was there to clear a defect. The cop turned around and said that he wouldn't have brought the car in if he hadn't changed it and told him to take the sticker of when he went back out to his car!

Thanks people, I'll be having a good look under the bonnet tomorrow. Hopefully it's just a vac line, fingers crossed.

the car doesn't seem to be making boost as quickly as it was a month or so ago. And i can here it activate at low boost but when the boost gets up a little i can no longer hear it, but i can hear a hissing sound under acceleration.

Hi guys, I suspect i have a faulty BOV. I just have a standard item on my car at the moment and was just wondering if there was any way of checking that it's not leeking under boost Thanks

The event at Talem Bend on the weekend was organised through the rotor club. My mate goes to all the meetings etc. i'll try and find out a name/number, no garuntees tho. Saw a video of the event just yesturday. they ran a motorcana thingy. I'm not sure of the extent of the facilities there, ie. how much road they have, but they definaly have a skid pan.

Has anyone out there got a single standard R33 rim. One of mine has been damaged and i'm looking to replace it. Thanks Aaron

I think the ECU has a limp mode, from what i've heard this stops the engine from reving over 2500, this could possibly be what's happening to you. As for why it could be in limp mode, i'm not sure what causes it but i would guess overheating would be one main reason, faulty sensors could be another. Did you notice if your radiator was hot or not? If the radiator doesn't get hot but the engine does you're car could be suffering from a busted water pump. Could be anything mate, I'm just throwing ideas out there

Hi, I'm interested in one of the strut braces for a R33, are they still available and will you accept COD? Thanks Aaron

Hey everyone, just got a quote from D&T for a high flow cat, 3" cat back system with resinator and a magnaflow muffler, all in stainless for $1400. Which isn't to bad for a custom exhaust. I'm not defected but thanks for the offer on the loaned exhaust.