Race__24

Walbro fuel pump, 255L/h part# GSS 341. Used but in great condition. Will include a new sock and used plug/harness $60 Trust Airinx II Filter, great condition. $50 K&N Pod Filter, genuine, good condition, recent clean/oil. $65 Greddy E-manage - used but 100% working. The unit gives 16x16 adjustment to ignition, injectors and afm voltage. Can be used when upgrading injectors and AFM. Can also be used to delete AFM and use MAP. Comes as just the main unit. All the instructions etc are available from the Greddy website. Looking for $200 Greddy E-manage Support Tool - Comes in original box (slightly squashed) and includes the software on CD and the special cable needed to link it to the unit. Cost me over $110 selling for $60 ono Greddy E-manage Ultimate Harness N-9 - Brand new, never been plugged it, original packaging - suits 180SX SR20 1/91 - 9/93. Plug and play harness. Could also be sacrificed to become a field harness for a Emanage or Emanage Ultimate to suit any car. These are selling for around $275 on Ebay, I want around $100 Prices are negotiable so make an offer. Aaron

Yeah, I was thinking removing the caps, machining the rod side down the 30 thou picking it back up, machine and re bore it. You kind of forget about the cost of machining when you do it all the time.

Would shortening the rods be an option?

I've got it sorted, thanks anyway.

I'm after a RB25 fuel rail in good condition. I need it ASAP

Rhemac do very good work. Their prices are at the upper end of the scale but so is the quality. Arguably the best in SA. A couple of the guys down there are heavily into skylines/RBs

Do you have a good fan and shroud?

I'm after a R33, R34 or Stagea fan and shroud.

You should easily be able to get 400 to 450km to a tank around town, if you're not flogging it and your motor is in reasonable condition.

Don't fill it all the way up.

Keen, haven't been able to come to a cruise for ages.

What would be a ballpark price for this?

How did you recondition the joints? I thought they were a throw away unit

I'd be keen

I'm pretty sure that dropping the shaft will not heat up the transfer case, in fact it will do the opposite. The rear wheels are constantly being driven by a mechanical connection, a clutch pack is used to engage the front shaft. The clutch packs will be doing less work without the shaft in there. Bleeding the Altessa system may help. Also using a better oil in there may help.

A nistune won't work. You will need to get something with a R34 type plug. There is also the issue of Nissan using 3 different ECUs on the series one. There is only ever one wiring diagram in all the manuals so you may have to trace everything yourself.

I'm guessing you've wound up the boost on a standard computer? Anything above stock and you COULD start seeing issues. Particularly if you have a free flowing exhaust and intercooler. Most people can usually get away with 10 to 11 psi which is all that is safe on the standard turbo anyway.

Are you talking about the bar in the first 2 pics. Is the 3rd pic relevant?

Okay, I'll attach some photos It wasn't a big job really. What I will say is that it's still a work in progress. There are still a few things that need tidying up to get it how I want it. The number 1 thing on the list is to install another radiator, I got the kit second hand and the radiator was unusable, so for now I turned up some adaptors and I'm just using the FMIC as the rad. It looks ugly, but it works well. I have a brand new Barina rad here to use, that's it I don't get a specific one to suit the kit. A guard for around the back of the pump is on its way. Hopefully I'll have something made up by the weekend. You will notice that the black 90deg reducer bend is a little deformed. This is because the bend is not sharp enough. I bought this from the local parts store as it was all they had. The blue one is from frozenboost and is a much tighter bend. I will try and track down 2 black ones, if I can't find any I will get some from frozenboost. Once I have some tighter bends I should be able to move the intercooler over enough to clear the overflow bottle. I may need to make up some custom fittings that don't sit as proud and also re rout the BOV return to give me a bit more room. Eventually I may go to Aeroflow push on fittings and hose. I just used standard heater hose which can be a bit prone to kinking but is fine once it's in place kink free. I was a little wary of pressure buildup in the system but my concerns were unfounded. The whole system runs only slightly above ambient and you can't feel any pressure in the hoses even when hot from heat soak. I drilled and tapped 1/8bspt holes for 2 8mm barbs. One you can see in the pics in the top right hand end tank on the cooler. The second went in the top of one of my front mount tanks. This was to allow all the air out of the system when filling. Without this all the cambers in the system would have only filled up as far as either the inlet or the outlet, whichever is higher. I run some vac lines, teed them up and attached them to the filler body. It is a bit of a squeeze to get it in but I think it fits reasonably well. The kit is from frozenboost.com It's their 600HP kit

Get a shift kit from MV Automatics in Blackwood. It will totally transform the transmission. Shift quality will improve and the flaring between gears will be eliminated.

I installed a water to air intercooler on the stag over the last couple of afternoons. The boost response is out of this world compared to a front mount!!!

Can you set up a wideband with the power fc? If not you won't be able to adjust the feedback as this is determined by the O2 sensor

I'm running an Emanage Ultimate. It's good for what I'm doing but the feedback side of things can because bit tricky. The standard ECU does its own thing in the light load areas so adjusting these areas does nothing due to the standard feedback loop. I've been running the innovative MTX-L for almost a year with no problems. I like the fact that you can calibrate it. The AEM type say that don't need to be re calibrated but they both use the same sensor? I feel that if one goes out of calibration they both will and only the innovative let's you recalibrate it. They all seem to have reports of problems/failures but the innovative was the one I went for. Plus, I got a great price from the official Australian distributor.

I have a Innovate Air/Fuel guage on my car that has a programmable output. Could this be a viable way of adjusting the closed loop side of things? I am running a EMU. I could use the A/F target map to do it if I could find some way to disable the original narrowband as unplugging it sends the car mega rich. Does anyone know of a way to do this? What sort of numbers seem to be working on the light cruise side of things? My car sits between 14.7-15:1 on the cruise so it's pretty much at lambda. It doesn't bounce around so I'm guessing the tune is pretty close and it's not being controlled too much by the narrow band. On another note, I'm really going to have to start using lambda numbers in place of A/F, will make this thread easier to read without having to do the conversion in my head

Direct wiring couldn't hurt. Maybe it's taking a little while to get up to full speed from the reduced voltage it sees at idle.