Race__24

Walbro GSS 341 fuel pump. Removed due to upgrade. Will Include new sock and wiring harness $60

In the Guilty Toy e85 thread he mentions that his measured EGTs were much lower with the e85. I can't remember the details, you'll have to go have a look.

Will the e85 pump be ok for 98 as well?

Price for steering wheel and airbag please

After a GTR BOV. Also looking for a RB25 throttle body and BOV gasket. If I could get one for the weekend that would be great

I'd very much doubt that it will be the CAS. But you can mark it, remove it and check the bearing to make sure it runs free. The actual mechanism inside is non contact so won't make noise. My money is on the timing belt. Particularly if you put in a Gates one.

A stock pump should be fine, like other people have said, you're only keeping the surge tank topped up.

Could I please have some details? Thanks.

From memory 6900 - rev limit 1100 - fast idle. when you back off the engine will sit at this RPM for a couple of seconds before going back to idle 1200 - Injector pickup, ie. when you back off the injectors cut out untill this RPM 800 - idle speed 850 - air con idle If you increase the 1200 to say 1300 you will notice that when the revs drop they will come down softer, ie. the last 200 RPM will be more gradual. Adjust this if it seems to be overshooting too far below the fast idle. I could have the 1200 and 1100 around the wrong way, it has been 5 years since I've touched a PFC. It is very easy to figure out when you know what to look for

Do you have the handles in the boot to release the rear seats? Interior light assembly?

Yep, should be number one on the list of mods to do to your auto Stagea.

Does anyone have a dial back timing light I could come around and use. I just have to check my timing to my ecu. Will only take me 5mins.

I'm after an uncut front reo for a S1 Stagea

Does anyone have a compression tester I can borrow for a day or so.

I had a Exedy Organic in my old car. Bought from Kudos Motorsport in the FS section. They are genuine kits unlike some of the mix and match kits that are around. Anyway, the new owner of my car pushed over 320rwkw through the clutch before it let go. Not bad for an organic with nice soft engagement.

Take both the batteries in to a battery place and get them to test the CCA on each. You'll be sure either way then.

Does your tv screen work or are you driving? If it does that little black box is what allows it to happen.

Racing In Slow Motion IV http://vimeo.com/45677704#at=0

Most good shops won't let you do the prep. It's the prep can make or break a paint job. So unless they do it and they know it's good they won't touch it as it's not worth destroying their reputation.

I've got an Emanage Ultimate which you can set up with a couple of maps. It's got 4 switches on the front to switch them on the fly.

there is a towbar place in Salisbury that has done a couple. Do a search in the main thread

MV Automatics is the place to go, don't trust anyone else in SA

Autobahn

I'd go for a gtr and run it in rwd. Room for more rubber, stronger engine an the option to go awd again if you want to go around a track fast or you have too much power to put through 2 wheels. There is also the bonus of better interior bits and projector headlights. There is still plenty you can do to it ie. suspension, build the engine, cage, fuel system, rims, turbos, cooler, exhaust, ecu etc. etc. You could sink quite a bit of money into a gtst to bring it up to the same level as a stock gtr in rwd, why not start with the gtr and build on that.

In Adelaide but will post interstate. If someone wants the lot they can have it for $300pp. So if you use the harness for the blue you will be getting the unit itself, the standard harness, the ignition harness and the software. This will be good for around 300rwkw and ideal where a nistune is not an option.