Race__24

If your with Adam make sure you up your connection profile. I've got a SNR of 6 and run stable on their second to fastest profile. I sure noticed the difference over standard.

What CAD systems are they using? It will be used for predominantly CAM applications, Edgecam to be specific. With a bit of CATIA and SolidWorks thrown in for good measure. Tool-path verification will be what i need the graphics power for. Unless it is coded to support some GPU computing, which I doubt. Is it worth going for a workstation card even if the program isn't specifically supported with drivers? Or would I be better off spending the same coin on a gaming card which will have more brute power, however not as fine tuned?

Just heard on the news, 60 people came down with salmonella, it is suspected that it was from villis products. not sure on details. It could easily have been from mis handling by a 3rd party but I didn't see the whole thing, just caught a bit of it.

Anyone had experience with $500 workstation graphics cards? I'm looking to get one for work but have had nothing to do with them before.

I'll be keen. I havn't been able to make the last couple

I'm in Ethelton, so western suburbs. Can pick up from anywhere tho.

My Stagea won't start. Worked fine one day, didn't the next. I'm after a z32 AFM to see if mine is the problem. Thanks in advance

Chuck us a PM please

Like the previous guys said, you need either both the fronts or both the rears off the ground in order to get either side out due to the sway bars doing their job. There should be enough movement to do them one side at a time once both wheels are off the ground.

Kudos in the F/S section does good exedy clutches, not the dodgy generic ones. A HD organic would be plenty for you if you've got a stocker and they have been known to hold quite a bit more. They still grab well but are very nice to drive around compared to a button clutch and 1000% better than an extreme. Kudos I'm not sure if the ones in the link are the Sports Tuff ones but sent the guy an email or give him a call and he will sort you out.

I'm looking for a Z32 AFM in SA, new or used at a reasonable price. Need it for Tuesday afternoon as the car is in for a tune Wed.

Not really my point. But it comes around again, I stopped playing for a bit but regularly go back to it.

Check out the top rip offs page. The prices with the Aus flag next to it is $AU. BF Bad Company 2 - $AU69.99 here $AU19.99 in the US

Steam users check this out. Steam Prices Now to find someone in the UK to gift me some games......

That looks like a good option but I think i might go down the path of one single 120gb SSD as I already have ample storage. What I've got ATM is 1x corsair x60 SSD, 2x 1TB raid0 and 1TB for a couple of backup images of both. All i want is some more room to put my games/CAD/CAM on the SSD for some snappy loading

Are you running a hardware controller Andrew, or just software? I'm going to be looking at upgrading mine to something a little larger with a sandforce 1200 controller soon. I'm tossing up whether to go for a raid0 setup or just a larger single. I was thinking that there might not be much advantage if I was just to use software raid rather than a hardware card since the read/writes are so fast anyway.

Can you introduce me to your friend, I want a friend that will give me that sort of stuff!!!! If it's the dual solenoid boost controller (type R) you have yourself one of the best boost controllers on the market. And the Emanage Ultimate is the best piggy back on the market. RB25s can be modified to be tune-able but an Emanage or Power FC is what most consider the better option due to the ease of tuning. If you fit the boost controller you'll be able to safely run 10-11 PSI MAX on a standard turbo. The emanage will be able to compensate for the R&R (rich and retard) that happens with that sort of boost. It's probably not worth putting them on unless you have a free flowing exhaust on there already.

If you have different tyre sizes the transfer case has to slip to make up the difference. In the R33 and later 4wds there is preload on the clutch inside the transfer case so it doesn't run free like the r32 4wds do. This is why you can not safely just pull a fuse and drive in 2wd with anything later than a R32. The reason this causes shudder is because the clutches in the transfer case grip until the load between front and rear builds and then slips. This happens over and over very quickly causing a shudder. It can happen anytime, whether under load or not, it just depends at what point the clutch wants to grip/slip. The shudder can also be caused by air in the system, get it bled out by your mechanic My car has a shudder under mild load and is caused by air from a leaky bleeder and gasket, it is on the list of things to get fixed.

I got a singular coil for my splitfires, I just contacted the sales rep and got one no problem. I warn you tho, they are not cheap, it was over $200 from memory. If you can find someone else that needs the same model as you you may as well buy a set and split it.

I'll be there whenever. I can plan a nice cruisy route if you'd like, free of charge even.

It's a great day for families or singles alike. Thousands of dollars are usually raised.

Slotted rotors only require a sharp tool and ridged setup, which isn't really special equipment, just not sh!t equipment.

I drive my car up onto bricks (one each side) then jack it from the subframe in the center and put the axel stands under the caster bushes.

I'll take one please

Hit it with some WD40 or Inox at all the joints, that should quieten it down.