klebestift

Deposit taken.

For sale: 1999 R34 Skyline GT-t Manual White 92,XXX km Located in Kiama, NSW Car is basically stock with the following mods: 3" turbo back exhaust BC Racing Coilovers 19" Lenso Wheels Blitz turbo timer HKS bov can be included but is not installed Mongoose m80 alarm and immobiliser Genuine skyline floor mats $15,000 neg Oil has been changed every 5000 km and I have receipts for all the work done. Car has always been reliable and I hate to sell her but I'm moving to the US and can't take it with me. Car is located in Kiama / Wollongong, NSW but if you're serious about buying call me and I may be able to bring it to sydney. Call (0408 210 078) or text preferred but PM or email ([email protected]) is ok too. Luke

Called nissan and they found it for me. For the sake of completeness it was on the epc-data.com site, but instead of looking in Body Parts -> Front Bumper I should've been looking in Accessories -> F20 Bumper Surrounds http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3952-rb25det/misc/F20/KK6020/ Colour coded numbers on the left (I guess), with an unpainted replacement part number (the number the guy from nissan gave me) on the right.

Looking for any help on finding a part number for the factory option front bar on r34 skylines This one: This is far as I've gotten: http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3952-rb25det/body/620/62650S/ Which when filtering for my paint code (QM1) gives the following part numbers: Which looks to be the series 1 bar (1998-2000) and maybe the series 2 bar (2000-...) but where is the other one? Is there anywhere I can find pictures or diagrams of part numbers? The 62022AB125 part is the same for all colour codes so I assume it's unpainted? A similar search for the rear bar has 3 date ranges, all with the same part no. as the rear bar didn't change with series 2 I don't think.

SAU Nickname: klebestift Car Make and Model: Suzuki Swift (from Rent4Ring) Circuit Name: Nurburgring Nordschleife Lap Time (BTG): 9.35.03 (Harry's Laptimer) Mods: Full cage, race seats and harness, upgraded brakes, pads and suspension Tyres: Semis Power: 136hp Weight: 1025kg

Probably because of Schuey. I'm guessing the go pro/mount concentrates the stress into a point on the helmet and doesn't let it spread the load properly.

After missing out on Texi recently, I feel the need for speed so I'm heading down to MDTC for the drive your own car day, on Sunday 16th November. Anyone else keen on some track action is welcome to join. Price is $150, but may be cheaper if you have a licence and I'm pretty sure they don't do timing. See here for more info and booking details (I just called them): http://mdtc.com.au/product/bring-your-street-car/

edit: nevermind

Why only men?

If you're going down anyway, can you just use my paid-for-but-unused entry? We have the same first name, so... close enough?

Add me to list please

I won't be able to make it this Sunday. Major uni project due on Monday and I haven't done enough. If there is a waiting list you can open my spot to one of them.

pics dead again

If you unplug the top plug first you can maneuver it so there is a large space on the right to get your hand or a flat screwdriver in and find the clip.

Too late to edit previous post, I had only tried a few plugs cause I was too scared of unplugging the airbag. Eventually worked out the airbag is the bright yellow plug so I got more adventurous with the white plugs. The plug that controls the key-in-ignition signal is a T shape white plug on the underside of the ignition barrel. It looks like the photo below when unplugged. You can unplug the white end or the other end (small brown connector above ignition barrel) with the same result:- no ignition + open door beep, keep headlights + open door beep.

Anyone have any clue which plug I'm looking for? Pics above don't work and I've tried a few white plugs but none of them are turning the beep off. Here's a pic from under the steering column.

First time out with the club for me and first time on a dry track. Had a ball, was great to meet everyone and I'm very pleased with my 1:12.3 on (cheap) street tyres & stock engine. Thanks to all who made the day happen, and to Nick for helping shave a few seconds off my time. I took some vids throughout the day: The flaming GT-R All the footage I have from chasing other people's cars And my (2nd) best lap:

I just applied for a CAMS licence online without needing to have previously held one. Register on the front page to receive a CAMS ID (may have to wait for the email) and then use that to login, choose your club (we're listed under ACT, not NSW) and pay for the licence.

Not sure if this is the right section to be asking this. Recenlty purchased an R34 GTT, and soon after the handbrake light came on while driving around (dimmer than it is when the handbrake is on). I did a few searches and first stop was to check the brake fluid, but it was already over the max line (see first pic). I bought a little bottle of DOT4 and put a bit extra in anyway (second pic), but the light has stayed on. What else could the light be indicating? Could it be lit because the brake fluid is over the max level? Previous owner only recently had the brakes replaced and they still feel quite good - stronger than any other car I've owned. Second - possibly related - problem is the boost gauge. The sender under the bonnet is unplugged (both power and pressure - there is a screw sealing the tube from the manifold) but the boost gauge changes depending on the state of the handbrake, as follows: Handbrake on - Handbrake dash light full - Boost gauge all the way down Handbrake off - Handbrake dash light half - Boost gauge all the way up From memory when I test drove the car, the boost gauge was all the way down all the time and the handbrake light was not lit. I tried reconnecting the electrical connection on the sender under the bonnet but it made no difference, I've got some vacuum hose to try reconnecting the pressure line as well, but I don't think thats going to make a difference. There is an aftermarket head unit and I read somewhere they can tap into the handbrake signal, so is it possible this was stuffed up and is causing all the issues? I'm pretty sure it wasn't happening when I test drove the car, so why would that suddenly change? Any ideas where I should start looking?

Could I get a check please? 6U90000ER34027739 Thank you.