paulR32gtr

Keep an eye on http://www.my105.com/ - should be track / race oriented R32's pop up

Not too far. I have completed most of the wiring as well, ECU is in etc. Just waiting on a few bits that should be here today so I can continue assembly. I still need to decide on a 3.5" exhaust, and also need my 34 back so I can test fit the airbox and see if it is going to work. Planning on getting stuck in over the coming weeks so I reckon probably another month or so - also dependent on when Race pace can fit me in to set up the ECU, turn the key and tune. As I understand it with the rear HICAS removed and the lines that run up and back this takes a lot of the cooling capacity out of the system. I remember Sydneykid saying they put cores on their 32 race cars because the fluid got quite hot on the track, he said the standard loop plumbed in as I had it was fine for the street. I know with my 34 it tends to heat up and overflow out the reservoir a bit on the track, you can chuck a sock around it but I thought I would have a play around with a cooler and see how it went.

What was the difference? I have looped the outlet / inlet underneath the back of the inlet manifold on my 26, but you have me a little paranoid now!

I am working out the best way to replace the high pressure line. I think the Speedflow 200 series will do it, and I am planning on flaring an AN fitting on to the factory hard line.

Got some time to spend on the car on Saturday. The filthy power steering pump has been bothering me, and the factory high pressure line looks like it would interfere with the oil cooler line once the engine is moving. So pulled it off and gave it a clean. Also cut down the retaining bracket and gave it a bit of paint. I then ripped all this gear out including the front factory cooling loop. And set about replacing it with this. Seeing the entire rear HICAS has been removed including all lines, and then this stuff I figured I better put a cooling core in. The rear stage of the pump will be used to pump the low pressure fluid through the core and back to the reservoir, this will hopefully stop the fluid from boiling out the top of the reservoir. Started making up the lines. And back on. Made up a mount for the core with some right angle alloy strips, need to hit it with some black paint.

Hi Paul - can you PM me as well please ... it's something I have been thinking about for a while

I'm in on this as well for both days

So much awesome

Definitely no guru but have put together a few track cars, and helped others put them together, also dabbled in some field testing. First time I have heard of AGI Precision but the photos of their work looks neat. Make sure it's installed correctly with the correct grade fasteners. Seats - hate to say it but you really need to try them out see what suits your frame. I am about the same size as you (6'2 / 90kg) and the Velo's fit pretty well - I have a Velo GPT2 wide version sitting here which is a little wide for me, I sold a Velo Podium 2 normal size and that was a great fit. I love Sparco's for fit, Evo2Plus's in my car at the moment, BUT the harness holes are just too low for people our height - especially once you add a HANS device, which means in a crash you risk loading up your spine. I also have a couple of Cobra Sebring Pro's which have the wings, a small and a normal size which I am pretty comfortable in both with preference to the normal size. Harnesses - Velo make some good ones with a nice dial type release. Only issue is the tags sewed on the belts get a bit caught in the adjustment buckles making them a little hard to tension up. Not sure if they have resolved this in later models. Otherwise price / performance is great and Aussie made too I believe.

Yeah done it before, diff needs to come out - was pretty straight forward though. Follow the workshop manual for bleeding up the system.

Yeah looking great nice work - well inspired to get stuck back into mine

Nice yeah was good not having to put that mess back on. The thermo is 16 blade skewed, not sure of exact dimensions though, PWR organised it including how it mounts to the radiator. Going to try and get stuck into some more over the next few weeks, have been o/s and now catching up on work but getting there.

Thread title is misleading, I feel lied to

Thanks Anthony, yeah very glad I didn't pull the pin on this. Would be happy working on it all day every day if I could.

Top effort ya nutter its looking awesome. I've finally met someone that does more insane hours than me you've done well to get it to this point in the time you gave yourself. See you at the airport!

Gutted going to miss the debut

Got my hands on new belt that fits the ATI balancer, pulley and alternator and got all the belts tensioned up. Now that the radiator can stay put I made up the oil cooler lines and put the sandwich block on. Pretty close to the power steering pump lines so going to see if I can swing them around or make up new lines to make a bit more space. Radiator spaced up now plenty of space between the thermo and the balancer. Also finished off the fuel lines, replaced a few that had split, accelerator cable hooked up.

Wanted to do it after I found out its not just a single session on one of the days, and includes sinking piss & food in a Brabham corner corporate box! Alas I have a close mates bucks on the Saturday - thought of doing Thurs and Friday only entered my mind but can't justify the kesh at the moment. What is the deal with taking footage - has Bernie issued you guys a statement saying you can't take / use footage / he owns it or the like?

x3, how about concrete walls? HPI braided clutch line arrived. Comes with the banjo bolt for the master cylinder end, 4 x copper washers and some cable ties. Bolted on to master cyl. Sure enough I had the bolts for the slave in the starter so swapped those over and installed. Just simplifies things down a little in this area. Shows how the battery cable is routed into the bay, around behind the steering and secured at a few points along the rail. Before shot of the thermo - was 4/5mm off the balancer. Probably would have been alright but have sorted some spacers at the bottom to prop it up a bit higher. All sits nicely once bolted up. Engine bay coming along. Bolted up the power steering pump as well, need a slightly shorter belt for the alternator and water pump so sourcing that this week.

Yep Racepace built the motor. It's a stage 1 / 2.6. I sourced a new N1 block, R34 crank, Tomei oil pump, injectors etc and we used the head from my engine, rebuilt of course and the ancillaries. Turbo's are GT-SS that I already had on there that have only done 10K kms or so.

I would say it's just Andrew evolving what is required / works. My R34 only has the single cross in the rear same with the one I bounced several times on its roof and that held up very well My main concern is retaining the standard dash bar. If this was being used for rally still, I would probably do a dash bar with some more tie in to the trans tunnel / firewall just to keep that engine out of the cabin & keep good space for legs. I believe I need the Sainz bar as well now to be able to log book / register the cage so will need to get that added at some point.

Thanks and thanks to everyone else who has commented! I've been having a lot of fun putting it back together - can't wait to see it fire up for the first time. Had a thought last night the clutch slave bolts are probably in the starter motor, and the other 35mm ones I have left over are for the starter ....

Not a great deal to report. Waiting on an HPI braided clutch line so I can simplify and do away with the factory dampening system and get the slave cylinder back on and everything hooked up. Put a new dust boot on as my old one had gone walkabout. Having serious trouble finding the bolts that mount the slave cylinder going to have to source some replacements. Also got some new fuel hose to replace the old split ones. Got back on to the routing for the battery cable to get it finished off. Dunked some of the R34 mounting brackets in Phosphoric Acid to get some corrosion off, and hit them with some chassis black chip resistant paint. In the bay along the rail there was an existing captive nut left over from the rear HICAS gear removal so mounted up nicely. Almost there on the rest of the bracketing. Cable now ducks around the chassis rail using the R34 bits and works quite well. Just need to finish off the part around the steering and good to go. Clutch line should be here tomorrow. Then I just have a few other bits buried in the sands of time to track down so I can progress.

Ze Germans have finally invented the hover car!

Not yet unfortunately have not had time, will try this week