paulR32gtr

Not sure about part numbers etc but have a look at the AP rears on here: http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/pricelist_gtrbrakes.htm 330x24mm single piece rotors with drum. I went with the alcon front and rears - pretty well balanced with the standard master cyl. The cp5555's are nice in being able to run the 36mm thick rotor, but I dont think I will ever need it!

Always loved the later model silver 32 gtr's. There was a silver 93 I wanted that was awesome when I imported my 89 but was still fetching too much, and with more expensive sevs compliance I went for the 89. I am thinking I might end up with silver from my respray! Dark front lip and dark / black wheels - basically trying to make it look like a 93/4. Look forward to seeing this one progress Oh - and 34 red for the engine could be the go will look good - I think you need to have some contrast against the silver - if you do the engine I think it will end up too much. Each to their own though it has to be yours!

After my little surprise of all that tar under the parcel shelf I was up early to pick up a car trailer and some more dry ice. Luckily the tar was in really good nic I could tell it was going to come straight off with the dry ice - which it did. Loaded up and made the journey to Meridian. Good chat with Brenton and Andrew about cages and the rest of the prep - had a look at some of the work going through there at the moment and it's mint - amazing TIG work from Andrew. They are going to take care of most of the rust around the areas they will be working and Micolour the rest. Things have really ramped up today, both with things moving along and allocated budget I was originally going to just get the interior sprayed, but there is some surface rust around the windows on the outside, so its just not worth mucking around. I am basically having the car reset the car back to factory condition - might choose a different colour though have to work that out. Michael @ Micolour will be doing the whole car once Meridian is finished. Inside outside and engine bay - and anyone that gets him to work on their cars will know the immaculate result to expect. Took the car round and had a good chat with him and a look through his awesome workshop and at some of his mint work. Very excited but nervous about this, as much as I will want to wrap it in plastic and hide it away - I can't let it get in the way of getting out and enjoying the car once finished. Might have to organise a decent photo shoot to savour the memories with in the event I put a scratch on it... Ready for some surgery.

You have pm. Yeah they stop really well time and time again - can easily out brake the crappy t1r's I have on there - will be able to give them a good test once I have some real semis. Cheers.

Cheers - its been a long time coming but worth the wait to have the pennies to do it properly. In other news... more tar... awesome.

No! Same rolling diameter will be ok with the 4wd, but i think you will find some pretty heated discussions in here about retaining the same width for all wheels. The jist of it is, none of the top gtr garages ever use staggered wheel sizes, diameter or width.

I have an OMP WRC in suede which I love - they do come in smooth leather. It has a slight dish to it which is fine normally, but now I am looking at a quick release hopefully it isn't going to sit too close. See http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pa...ui-t328473.html

Bloody goo - and I am convinced 1989 seam sealer technology is literally the spawn of the devil himself - chisel chisel chisel, fark, chisel, chisel, chisel. Not sure how Merli got his cleaned up in 10 hours - i would be closer to 20. Off to Meridian later today for a cage, going to take it past micolour first so they can see the rust - make sure its not a bad idea getting the cage in first (Meridian have a slot for me now). Roy - see photos below. Dimensions are perfect (no engine yet though!) but it fouls on that small lip in the third pic - you see the gap on the top down shot. Just going to bend it a little and should be good. I have the drawing if you want it - pm me an email address and I can send it to you.

Noted

Yeah I spotted that in your thread on my quests for an easier way - can of carby cleaner on hand!

Yeah it was only by absolute sheer luck that we ran into our support car god bless her, when we were fuel light on empty on a long transit between comp stages. No mobile reception where we were (3 though - surely Telstra nextg powah would have been ok).

WELCOME BACK! I think everyone thought you'd been put away for your digital scales or something. Will be good to see this thing going - its just so close... I must admit I have robbed lots of things from your build for my own studying photos etc

You can sign up with places like MPC in bayswater to handle your fuel, think they have mechanics and tools - just pay a fee for them to support you for the event. They are stationed with fuel trucks at the end of certain stages, pull over refuel, use tools for patch jobs. It might seem pricey, but after you add up accomodation, fuel, getting the support vehicle to the event etc it probably ends up pretty cost effective. Not sure which events they do - def. tassie, some of the other guys should be able to tell you more and who else does it. Otherwise plenty of people around to go halvies with on bringing a support vehicle - always good to share costs - just a 4wd or something and there is always some poor sap to get roped in to driving it (just don't tell them how much hard work it actually is!). Try make sure you are similar cars and driver skill so your start times will be similar - minimise stressing your support vehicle out if you need fuel away from service stations. Beauty of a well prepped GTR is you wont need to put a spanner near it! All the tools and spare parts you bring with you will most likely never be used - just an oil change and rotate tyres or something. It was funny watching the Evo's pulling engines and diffs etc - we were just popping the hood, checking oil, cooler pipes and water on a wound up unopened 1989 engine - it took a beating. Some good advice we got was to treat rallies like a scenic holiday! Drive at 7/10ths and if you start seeing red it's time to back off a little to make sure you bring the car home.

Could it also be a faulty injector on one of the cylinders?

the flames popping out the back is a big giveaway too - a cop will throw the book at you if they see flames shooting out the back of your car. Just get a high flow cat!

Man thats amazing how well it fits. The rest of the dashboard shouldn't be a problem there isnt too much to contend with other than the cross bar.

Finally able to start my build thread - things are progressing quickly! Have been threatening to set my R32 GTR up for tarmac rally since 2008 - and a knocking engine was the push I needed to get started. Went and did Targa tas with a mate in 2008 and the bug bit hard. Anyone that has built up a car knows the never ending list of shite you need so planning and funding began. First a little history - I imported this 89 R32 GTR in September of 2004. It was an R grade car due to a hit in the rear drivers side which had been repaired pretty well - otherwise was in outstanding condition all around - nothing out of place, completely stock - it was very clean. Kept it pretty standard minus exhaust and some pod filters. Have done all servicing myself and get Racepace to do anything beyond my tools and expertise. The aspiration - shot taken by my girlfriend in our support vehicle out of Queenstown on the western loop. Tassie has the some of the most amazing roads. While I was away in Tas I left the car in the capable hands of the Racepace with some gtss's, power fc and a few other odds and ends. Returned to a very nice 290 odd rwkw. Drove this around for a few years, decided to get it ready for some track work as I didn't want to drive it on the roads anymore. Was just going to see what I got out of the standard motor and wait for an excuse for a full build, so completely overhauled the suspension subframe off all bushes replaced, adjustable arms, sway bars, some tein coilovers to replace the tired stockies, and an alcon brake kit from John @ UAS. Gathering parts. Tomei oil pump. New longnose crank Sweet sweet pwr crossflow radiator with oil cooler in end tank. Next up the stripping begins. Racepace pulled the engine and I grabbed the shell back to start all the painful stuff. Rest of the hicas was removed, p/s pump bridged with p/s cooler hopefully will stop p/s fluid everywhere on shakedowns at the track - will see otherwise a cooler core will go in. Cleaning all the grease and road poo everwhere on everything. Can be pretty overwhelming at times but a proper clean will be worth it in the end - at least for the build completion shots - then start covering it with muck again The dry icing begins. Make sure you use a good esky picking this stuff up - I put it in a cheap bunnings tub which proceed to shatter - didnt loose too much but yeah - its farking cold. As with eveyone else 1-2 hours to get 95% of the stuff off and out, then another 10 and counting hours to get all the goo etc off - but it must be done properly. The stuff they used on the welch plug type things in the floor plan is the bain of my existence at the moment - bought 4 types of citrus cleaners today and have been working at it. Still need a little more dry ice for the remaining deadening pads. Unfortunately when I first had the car I didn't have a garage. Frying aussie summer sun has perished a lot of the seals etc, seats have faded which was all perfect when I first got it. It also had a bit of a water leak into the drivers footwell which I could never track down. After stripping everything down I found this big rust patch below the clutch pedal - car is off to the cage shop either Meridian or Brown Davis next, then the panel shop to get the rust sorted and some paint for the interior and engine bay. Not sure if I will stick with the gun grey to make it easy and cheap, or go for something fresh like white.

And they will take the cover off your factory ecu to check for extra chippies - kents snapped a screw on mine and left it like that when it was being used for another car through EPA.

Only thing is racing regs - tarmac rally panel modifications generally not allowed so have to run the standard doors. Carbon fibre sheet might be the go though.

They do look nice - they are definitely aimed at street cars though - far more intricate than the Bee-R ones which are aimed at caged cars. The bottom of the sunline ones will interfere with cage side intrustion. My car is going dedicated tarmac rally and won't see the road so I want something basic and flat that won't interfere - Bee-R are the closest I have found in carbon short of just screwing a carbon or aluminium skin on to the door. $1.2k probably better spent on important things like tyres - saying that I will prob still get the Bee-R ones

A week or two off putting a full cage in. Stock trims definitely won't fit with side intrusion once its in!

Yeah tell me about it - any local alternatives that you know of? I am sure I could sink the $1200 odd bucks somewhere else a little more useful. Saw your beast out at racepace the other week - one of it not best looking GTSt around

Has anyone had experience with the Bee-R carbon door cards? Pricey but they look good quality. I am a little concerned they won't sit as flat as a simple aluminium skin, and might somewhat dictate side intrusion options for my cage builder. They look to have a similar shape to the factory 32 skin just without the armrest, pocket and speaker. http://www.rhdjapan.com/bee-r-carbon-inner...-s15-ae86-54999

Any decent auto signwriter should be able to do a wrap for you - we had one done for a targa car and they did a pretty good job. Matte black would be really easy as they don't need to print anything up. Wasn't cheap though at around $5k, but they were only given the car for about 36 hours before it was on the boat to tas - I think they said normally it shouldnt be more than $2k.

Love it how they lined up the "SS". It is so rife out my way - I don't think I have seen a holden with an actual holden badge on it - ever.