paulR32gtr

Smoke can also come from certain gaskets, thread and manifold seal / anti-seize etc -- as the other guys have mentioned I quite often find you get a bit of smoke after changing over turbos / manifolds etc. Imagine spending two after work all nighters to change the twins on an old 26, only to have it start smoking furiously at start up.. was ready to drive the POS into a lake - but it burned off after about 10 minutes Insurance is to make sure oil is getting to your turbo even at idle as ash said drop your return line - I always do this before starting the engine cranking with the ignition and/or CAS disconnected until oil comes out to make sure the turbos are primed first - then reconnect oil drains and start it but don't stress you should be ok. Just let it idle for a while and keep checking everything and the smoke should stop.

i think it looks great - not necessarily my cup of tea but ticks all the boxes for a poser

Must be earning a fair coin Roy - should be able to afford an rb26 soon?

woohoo

Yerrp. But! funnily enough talking about followng your passions - music and the 80s led my old man to programming drum machines, programming drum machines and a bit of passion for geography led to developing highly specialised bush fire prediction software - so got there in the end.

Completely agree Roy - love them all to death just give them a good digging - they were all laughing at me when I said uni was a waste of time, and predicted exactly where they would end up in 10 years! I do highly value what our tertiary institutions provide, and dedication to persist with things people are passionate about - particularly in fields where there is little monetary benefit. Hey I come from a family of long suffering hard working musicians so know it too well. I also personally don't have a learning style that works with any of the education systems I have been exposed to - I need to research and teach myself or it just doesn't stick so my path was clear cut. This is why I was able to jump straight into my field, I had already spent the last 10 years teaching myself in my spare time. But yeah I am a massive believer in focusing on your passion - success whether monetary or otherwise will follow on its own.

How did you fix the solenoid in the engine bay? Is it somewhat isolated with some rubber or just bolted straight to something? Something easy to try would be unbolt it, wrap it in some foam and cable tie on somewhere - go for a drive see if the noise is still there. Otherwise - spun bearing?

If it is any consolation, while you are probably kicking back, I am still working and will be until the wee hours, then a few hours sleep and back into it... wish SAU would go down for a while so I can concentrate

Out of all the most financially successful people I know - none of them went to uni and all got low to medium enter scores. One freak even started earning big coin while still at high school. All my friends that went to uni are either (a) still there 10 years on, or (b) walked in to mediocre graduate positions and a SLOWLY climing like on about ~70-80k / year. I laugh at them...

Could it be the solenoid from the boost controller? Not sure bout the profec's but the AVC-R one is noisey as hell.

I know how draining working in offices with regimented hours can be. I quite often work on-site for a number of weeks and it saps all my motivation - tired in the morning after the commute, on and off during the day, then lazy once I get home. Worst thing is I resort to things like giant cans of mother / red bull to keep me moving - again weighing on my health. As soon as I can pick my own hours again I can use periods where I am motivated to rip through the work full pace... a wonderful thing if you can set yourself up like that.

I have been thinking about a career change a lot lately too - but for different reasons. While I love what I do, it is killing me sitting at a computer for very long hours. I'm under 30 and I am already starting to feel and see the effects. It pays obscene amounts of money, for good reason, and that is really what is keeping me in this job, plus it is my own business so comes with great freedom for "quiet" periods. I have always been very interested in engineering, mainly automotive but incorporating materials, metallurgy etc as well as fabrication / welding etc. I would love to study as a mechanical engineer and start a business designing and manufacturing performance parts. I think for my own sanity, and to make sure I am not dead by 40 I need to make a jump soon. Sounds like you might be suited to a coaching role of some description - unfortunately working for someone else qualifications are generally needed. Start your own consulting business however - and qualifications are no longer needed - just customers and results! Would you be looking at studying psychology?

I have had this before with the R32 gtr diff - certain oil will make it really tight, so very low speed cornering it locks, and then causes the shudder. Mine with redline lightweight shockproof was so tight it would actually refuse to move - dropped the oil, put some redline gear oil 80W140 and problem pretty much gone - one more flush and it would be gone completely as this is what I was using before the shockproof went in and no problems then. Andy - I also used to get it happening slightly at higher speeds as well until I changed the oil.

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Ohh this is interesting. I didn't realise Targa high country was in Vic just assumed is was yet another event I would want to do that required a boat ride. My car may finally be ready by Nov... would be the perfect debut.

I am not sure about the rb20 - but you should only need to unbolt the fuel rail. Before you do this you should pull the fuel pump fuse from the drivers footwell fusebox and start the car a few times until it doesn't start to clear out the fuel lines. Be prepared for fuel to still go everywhere anyway with rags when you pull the first injector off the rail. Also make sure you don't get frustrated and damage any of the hoses that connect the fuel lines to the rail - otherwise your car will burn to the ground next time you start it!

Yeah Denso are good, OEM on a lot of cars, GTR SARD drop in's are all Denso etc - part of Toyota Group

Your O2 sensor would only come into effect when cruising - closed loop mode. So it only happens when under hard acceleration - so under boost. I would expect AFM problems to show up under all conditions - but seeing you cleaned it last time and it went away you will need to get your hands on a loaner to test it out. I would also be looking closely at the plugs - I had a similar problem in my evo - chucked in some new pre-gapped NGK iridiums and problem gone.

bump - still for sale - Standard R32 GTR ECU (9/89) - $100 - 2 x Standard R32 GTR turbos (9/89) - see pics - $150 each - 1 x Standard R33 GTR turbo - see pics shiny clean one - $200 - Standard R32 GTR dumps with heat sheilds - see pics - $100 pair - Garret exhaust housing suit adapting gtr turbos to normal T25 flange - $50 - Standard R32 GTR brakes - front (4 piston) and rear (2 piston) sumitomo calipers with lines/discs/pads $450

To be honest I have found the procedure in the 32 GTR manual to be not as effective as a different method - how are you bleeding them? I suffered from a lot of ineffective travel at the start of pedal in, brakes still worked fine. Rather than pulsing the brakes with the bleeder screw open as the manual says to do, I get my assistant to push and hold the brake pedal hard while I quickly open and close the bleeder screw. Do this until no bubbles come out before moving on to the next, make sure you bleed in the right order - RR, RL, FR, FL and dont forget the ABS in the right order. My pedal is now quite solid since switching to this method.

Definitely get rid of the rest of the HICAS near the oil filter. Means you can fit a sandwhich plate for your oil cooler & guage sensors easily, plus getting to the damn oil filter should be easier.

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Dammit my engine is not going to be ready for this

Racepace down here actually modify the standard ones with a disc to make them adjustable, cheap option freight em down and back or see if you can get it done locally.

Well it would be best to end up with a turbo version as it will have better gear than a non turbo. However I think it is still illegal to drive the turbo on your P's even if you take the turbo off. Turboing a non-turbo ....