paulR32gtr

Use the redline gear oil 80W140. Dont use shockproof your car wont move at low speed & full lock! You will need to flush it properly too, otherwise you will still have a few problems.

Are you hanging some clear tubing off the bleed nipples when bleeding? You need to do it until no bubbles come out, start at the one on the rear diff, and then once that has no bubbles do the front one. You should then also only have 5mm maximum worth of air in the lower section of the reservoir. Procedure for R32 is: 1. Fill reservoir with nissan matic-D special blend trans fluid, 30mm above the max line 2. Open the air bleeder in hyralic unit above rear diff and remove all air in suction pipe until no bubbles coming out 3. Turn ignition ON 4. Remove the air bleeder connector in drivers side kick panel - its a white plug, just undo it 5. Open and close the air bleeder on back of the transfer case (near gearbox) 1 sec at a time to bleed air from the system, do this until no more bubbles are coming out 6. Connect air bleeder connector intermittentlly to bleed air from the reservoir tank return side (lower bit) .After bleeding complete, max air level height in lower section of reservoir is 5mm. 7. Turn igntion switch ON before adjusting oil level - connect air bleeeder connector, fill or drain reservoir tank so oil volume in top side is at MAX line 8. Turn ignition OFF - should now be complete.

So you have disconnected the wire in the kick panel before you turn the key to on yeah? You also have the fluid topped up in the Attessa reservoir, and have bled it from the bleed nipple on the 4wd pump on top of the rear diff first? Also make sure you have your 4wd fuse in place in the fuse box under the bonnet, and check if there are any error codes flashing on the 4wd computer in the boot bolted to the bottom of the parcel shelf. I didnt need the motor running recently when I bled the Attessa but maybe give it a shot.

One thing to keep in mind is the window seals on 32/33's are getting pretty old. If you do manage to buy one that has been garaged so seals are in good nic, one or two aussie summers and they will perish, the top of your rear seat will fade etc etc. The idea is to find an awesome garage, and hope it has a somewhat liveable house attached to it!

I have never had a problem with my skyline. Pulled over for a random license check in the city once earlier in the year - they thought my car had been stolen! I have no problem with them following up on a hunch like that. I have had them tail me a few times, can tell they are running me up in the computer, but then leave me alone. Surely some of the police on here can attest to the fact that this is due to my relatively clear driving record, the occasional under 10 kmh speeding fine, no DUI / suspensions / cancellations etc.

Ford Exploder I believe the dealerships refer to them as. Assuming there is a fuse box in the drivers footwell, kick the crap out of it until you cut the fuel pump, ecu etc... then sue ford.

Next up you can trump the 34 with a 32... Hey Birds I just signed up for SAU-Vic, who do I kick to get that glorious little Vic Club Member badge on my account?

Sorry - you are right it looks heaps cheaper at the moment to go with the Garrett equivalent with the way the USD and Yen are. I was more talking about the HKS GT-SS kits rather than the 2530, which can be had from the usual Japanese exporters for around $3300. You also risk copping import duty which is a killer - I paid only $2700 for my GT-SS kit back when the Yen was better, then copped import duty and ended up around $3300. Kudos looks alright for the Garrets, allow for $100 or so in shipping so you should end up around the $3k mark. You might also want to confirm with them that the actuators included are the ~15psi ones. So how long until you plan on building up the engine? You really don't want to push a stock engine much past 310-320rwkw unless you have the spare cash lying around! A 400rwkw capable engine could easily cost you $12-15k.

As Ash has drilled in - GT-SS are what you want with this setup. As you start to get up into these power levels, the last thing you want is a peaky setup if you ever want to turn corners, let alone badly cambered ones. The well sized turbo will always be faster. If you are looking for more power down the track my vote is save your pennies until then, buy everything at once, and do it all at once - you will be happier with the result. Also - the HKS kits are invaluable when you weigh up the screwing around to find this washer, that banjo etc, not to mention the cost. A mate and I put -7's on his targa car, and the price after finding all the bits and pieces was higher than an HKS kit, not to mention the time messing around finding it all.

evolutionoz dot net seem to have a pretty good system for using the classifieds section. Junior and rookie members need to pay $20 before they are allowed to post up their parts/cars for sale. This would weed out scammers that dont want to put in a decent effort first, as well as raise funds for the use of what is the most useful place in our country for the parts/cars we are after. I do however think 200-300 posts should be the cutoff for automatically getting access rather than the 100 they do it at. -- from their rules WHAT TYPE OF MEMBERS CAN POST IN HERE? These are the main types of members on the forum: - admins and mods (appointed) - senior members (1500+ posts) - members (100+ posts) - junior members (20+ posts) - rookies (up to 19 posts).

Yes I have also had cops blatently lie in court. Even so far as to say out loud to the magistrate that we said this and that in our recorded statements when we had not - and could prove so with our own copies. Our lawyer was adamant we should cop it on the chin for the minimum penalty and not waste court time for something so petty, so we were not able defend ourselves. Seriously as the other guys have said - GET YOUR LAWYER TO OBTAIN THE VIDEO FOOTAGE! It will be the only way you can prove your case... once it is gone you might as well just cop it all on the chin.

What injectors did you end up going with? I am making around 300kw with standard injectors and a nismo pump. Racepace seemed to think this is fine, was recommended to just get some R34 injectors only for the fact that the older they get they start to leak - but I had already dropped in some young R33's for that reason. Said I could go up to some Nismo 550's but why spend money for no reason. Yeah sounds pretty pricey think mine was around $500 for an LT8 back around 2002. I know he was getting over working on cars.... maybe trying to price himself out of jobs! Agreed.

Rodriguez tuned one of my old ET pulsars and did a great job on it - nice guy too. Wouldn't have a problem with him tuning any of my cars.

Oldish thread but hey things move slowly in the fab section. My 2c - NA engines at sea level are already running at 14.7psi - atmospheric pressure... just because 6psi boost is higher than we are used to walking around in doesnt mean that the flow characteristics are out the window.

Man this thread makes me want to sell my house and make a trip to bayswater. Did you use the VHT wrinkle finish spray cans to paint the cam covers / oil catch? Looks the goods and will no doubt be easy to keep clean in black.

What about the Hankook Ventus Sport K104? They aint too bad for a budget tyre - pricing shouldnt be too far off the Ku37 Edit: hmmm looks like they might not exist anymore - not sure what their replacement is

No granted this was a fair while ago - they were both the 2 litres - I think the wrx was a 99 and the B4 was around a 2002 with sequential twin-turbo.

Looks of the sti's are growing on me too, still not great though. A couple of guys I used to work with were into their subarus - one had a wrx and one bought the B4 when they came out, the WRX had its engine rebuilt locally under warranty at 40,000kms due to a gudgeon pin failure (ping ping ping!) and the B4 set the record having its engine replaced under warranty at 8,000kms. Doesnt say much for the product when these stories are pretty common...

Don't you mean SUPER earth wire kit.... plain old earth wire kit won't do anything...

Yes just the reverse. Mark the housing and the core with a marker before pulling the housings off so you can line them up again when re-assembling. This avoids the pain of having to rotate the housings when fitting them to the car.

Yeah they will come off easily just unbolt with a long 13mm spanner from memory. Compressor housing is easy too you just need to unbolt them and use a big set of circlip pliers on the circlip.

Check all the obvious things like piping first - but I had a similar problem it was a dry joint in the AFM - there is a DIY for how to fix it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...html&hl=AFM Re-soldered the joint and good as new.

Unfortunately Nissan Australia is a bit of a joke when it comes to the Skyline. Because most of the Skylines in Australia are grey imports direct from Japan - Nissan Australia developed official policy to actively block local support & parts for them. This has changed a bit over time with regards to parts (still extremely expensive), but generally the service centres provide poor customer service, charge an arm and a leg - and the mechanics have very little knowledge of the platforms. Plus side of this is we have a number of excellent performance workshops that specialise in the cars. I guess Nissan US have that customer service culture that is so good over in the states?

Sweet will give it a shot thanks.

I went past an ABS but they didnt have a seal kit listed for the 32 - what do you ask for specifically or do you have a part/kit number?