paulR32gtr

Looks like your upper suspension arm - dont grind it off haha

Melbourne same for random servicing shops - I paid $75 / hour to get diff oil changed at a random shop two years ago before I had a garage. Specialist / performance shops would be $100 - $180+ / hour depending on which "guru" is working on your car / dyno being used etc... I recently had a specialist suspension shop go right through my car not sure if you remember the thread - while the result is good it was expensive and for the prices I was expecting some higher end parts to be used. Looking back I would have researched and bought the specific parts I wanted - and fitted them myself once I had time save an alignment - was aprehensive about pulling the rear cradle without a lifter and all the other gear. Just pulled the rear diff over the weekend and it was pretty easy - cradle wouldnt be too much more of a stretch. Dropping back past the same workshop a week or so later it was empty, so I guess they are making as much off anyone coming through as they can to keep their businesses alive at the moment while people are cutting back. You are right - most places here fluff their invoices - if you hang around and wait for work to be done its ready quick, and the price is right - and if it isn't you can get them to explain - but leave the car there for a couple of days and their supposed hourly rate doesnt mean much anymore - fat gets added everywhere. Overheads need to get paid - running a business isn't cheap with work safe and all that shite going on these days - once they get the money home to pay the 4-500k mortgage in Reservoir their ain't much left.

Man you can also buy a mansion in semaphore on the esplanade in adelaide 25 minutes from the CBD for around $1 million! The same house in melbourne would be upwards of $2-3m, and sydney $5-6m. Cost of living in mel and sydney is huge, we all charge huge amounts for the work we do, and we all get charged huge amounts for work we have done. In saying that I completely agree about doing it yourself IF you have the time cos your not too busy charging huge amounts for the work you do - suspension is easy, driveline is generally pretty easy as well.

Also - I checked the wires with a multimeter and there is continuity across both pairs

Had the wonderful 4wd light come on a few weeks back which turned out to be a faulty pump. So I got a second hand one down from just jap but the plugs had been cut off - so the idea was to transfer the plugs off my faulty one on to the new one. Pulled the diff and the faulty pump out but hit a snag I am hoping someone with electrical knowledge can help me with. The plug for the reservoir (the big black cylinder) was easy - red and black power wires, however the actual pump and the other little thing on the back of it each have a pair of identical black wires coming out of them. I am hoping they are both just switched to ground, and the way they are wired will not affect the direction of the pump? Does it matter which way I wire the pairs?

^ as with any car that is well maintained both will be reliable cars in stock form - you would want to make sure you pick a good example of either hey to avoid problems. What sort of roads / traffic do you have to contend with on the way to/from work? Back when I was driving my GTR to work every day I felt like I was killing the poor thing in stop start traffic for no good reason - when it should have been saved for the open road or a racetrack. Fuel consumption is pretty heavy as well. Couldn't comment on the Rx7 but my philosophy these days is something a little more pedestrian for a daily driver, and if you have the space and the budget a GTR in the garage for the weekend / racetrack!

Haha I went off into a similar rant at my gf this evening when hearing of "outrage at a gun that shoots alcohol into peoples mouths" down here in Melbourne. It's called a goddamn water pistol for crying out loud, and who the hell would be outraged at that??? If anything you end up less drunk and covered in alcohol so need to retire early to change. Oh what this country has come to...

Might want to indicate what kind of car it is...

Did you try [email protected]?

What a sausage - is that yours [200]?

Whenever I am driving the Evo, I am thinking about the GTR. Only on the rare occasion my GTR is broken beyond all jimmy rigging, I am having trouble finding parts, I need to go to the tip, or pick up a free fusball table, am I thinking about a VY/VZ with a towball and a trailer.

Is it a GTR? If so... Gearbox = Redline lightweight shockproof Rear diff = Redline gear oil 80W140 (don't put the shockproof in, will make it really tight) Engine oil = Depends on your budget really - I go for the Motul 300v for sixty million dollars an oil change If you are talking GTSt - have a look at http://www.redlineoil.com.au/oil-finder.asp for your gearbox and diff, and have a read of the oil thread in this section for way too much information on which oil to choose

Goodridge braided on the front, and custom braided on the rear from hoppers stoppers in Hoppers Crossing Vic. Not ADR compliant but car is now dedicated tarmac rally. Only difference between ADR and race are the rubber sleeve things they put on the ADR versions, which are generally metal on the race versions. They are fantastic - zero ABS shudder and consistent pedal feel regardless of temps.

Yeah I always knew it was on the expensive side, but its a very reputable workshop plenty of guys on here have used and recommend them, and the prices while a bit over retail still seem ok to me. List is as follows: Front & Rear wheel alignment $160 Wheel balancing x4 $80 Front upper adjustable arms $500 Front lower inner ball joints $153.12 Front kingpin & bearing kit $468.74 Front sway bar $252 Front strut brace $250 Front tein 6kg coils $296.60 Front radius rod adjustable arm $300 Reboot and service front drive shafts $270 Service rack pinion new boots $249.65 Rear sway bar $285 Rear hicas lock bar $250 Rear stub axle to rack ball joints $172.22 Rear cross member bushes $250 Rear diff support bushes $150 Rear upper adjustable arms $280 Brake fluid $40 Labour $1955 GST $636

There was actually a fair bit more than I listed, whole front steering rack had to come out for reco, harder front springs, all the hicas removed and lock bar, over 2k worth of labour so it all added up.

Not much change from 7k! The things we do for these cars... You are right different rolling diameter is where the problems occur with ATTESA, however I think the general consensus is to keep widths the same as well. With a bit more camber in the front you can fit wider rubber without rubbing.

Hoppers stoppers can do ADR or racing to order as well.

I was having similar problems with understeer on the front was getting really annoying. Also traction in the rear was not great while cornering. Pretty much everything was shot replaced all the bushes front and back including dropping the entire rear subframe / diff bushes etc, all arms changed over for adjustable and set up, front king pins replaced, sway bars and front strut brace added and it now handles like a dream. Not a cheap proposition, but if the rest of your suspension is no good you probably wont be happy with the results of more expensive rubber. And I agree with everyone else, stick with 17's unless you need to fit bigger brakes.

Sounds like you have the ever elusive hard R32 GTR brake pedal. Sounds like they did a good job putting them on and the rest of your system is in good nic. I have alcons on mine and still suffering from too much travel - going to get in and bleed them again this weekend, if that still does not help going to try a new master cyl. I would say you will get used to them fairly quickly. My evo daily is much the same and it can be interesting switching between cars back to back but find I adapt pretty quickly. Did you put AP's on the rear as well or still standard?

I had two windows smashed last year about 6 months apart. One in Elwood with a beer bottle - I heard them do it - alarm went off but by the time I was out there they were gone. Didn't stop me from driving around for the next halfa. Same thing I was being lazy not parking it around the back. Other in Toorak - same window looked like they punched it idiots hope they broke their hand. Never leaving my cars in the street ever again - got a garage again finally.

No doubt they are a member on here somewhere too - so I am sorry sir, but I have to agree gold-pimped-riced GT-R is a big no-no for any of the women I know. Maybe there were a lot of 16-18 year old girls in their sample.

Yes can't wait to see how this turns out, VCT is black magic to me - is the timing adjusted on the fly through a mechanism inside the cam gear? Seriously - I have looked at the photos and I can't work out how on earth that thing works!! ... suspense .. killing They have been massively busy in there lately but worth waiting for and being patient with - know you will get a good result. Also sorry didn't mean any offence if taken, just thought maybe he didn't think it was the best idea - tends not to steer you in wrong directions.

Yes - I think you will find you need to top up your power steering fluid Its the black canister next to the airbox, get some Nissan Super Magic Special-D blend fluid from your local nissan.

Hit the little [x] on your browser the next time you come across something you don't like. Forums exist for discussion. He said he only has 1 year left - if he is in Vic the power to weight ratio still applies for P's issued before 1 July 2007.

Yeah would be a bit of a pig... I remember the days when 9:1 was a high compression engine though!! I guess I am just used to getting more respect from cops these days - can argue a point with them without ending up in the back of a divi van. I forget how I used to get treated.