paulR32gtr

-5's are HKS GT-SS's yeah?

cos its not the GTR!

The fact that it snapped down the thread leads me to believe that maybe it was not correctly tightened in the first place It has worked itself looser then snapped.

This thread is hilarious - well bumped - needed some entertainment to help with this hang over! Shane - the crankcase breathes oily (and whatever else) air back into your intake - my lungs and the EPA would prefer this goes through the engine, gets burned up and heads through the catalyzer. I personally flat out don't agree with venting bov's to atmo - unless your using an ECU utilising a MAP sensor instead of air flow meters it screws up your fueling as well. Too many reasons to keep plumbed back for me...

So I guess the whole damn gearbox needs to come off to replace it yeah? UAS have an upgraded one that looks a bit stronger.

Clutch linkage finally gave up yesterday - the following bit dropped out the bottom of the engine bay. The thread at the end has sheared off - looks like it may have been overtightened. Raining too hard to get out there today and have a look - but does anyone know exactly what it is (R32 GTR)? I guess the ball end pushes on something!

Duly noted Ben! I guess the clutch is an important one too - what have you all found has gone the distance?

Ok - be nice - I have nfi about the rules etc - and this is just preliminary scratchings. A mate of mine has just imported a plain old '89 R32 GTR and intends on race prepping it for, ultimately, entering targa tas for a bit of fun - and yes he has the cash and the need for speed to do it... Now there are production and modified classes I believe... I guess the question is - what is within the rules to prep it to sit in the production class? We are hoping to be able to: - Fix brakes - AP racing or similar I guess - Power up - is changing over to N1 turbos within the rules or do you need to start off with an N1? Power FC / remaps? - Oiling - larger sump / baffles, cooler and restrictors etc to keep pressure down? - etc etc etc Now there's probably a rule book that explains all this, but where is the fun in that

i do agree - no probs with the comfort setting being adapted, just as long as they leave the rest alone edit: however they may be reluctant to loosen the suspension any further considering the engine still puts out the same amount of power in comfort mode

also - I hope to god Nissan Australia does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to suspension settings on account of MOTOR/Wheels magazine and the UK guys whining about comfort

They, and those like them, have said the same things about earlier GTR's. I couldn't give two sh$#s about not being able to hit speed bumps like I am driving a taxi - it's a god damn race car ffs! Some are just innately more suited to commodores and falcons...

Don't mean to hijack or anything - related really - but what the hell are pineapples and what exactly do they do? I have heard about them, seen pics of them but just lost on where they go in the susp. and their function...

You should try sticking the ECU in diagnostic mode - it will flash codes out on your dash for any faults - might narrow it down

TPS = Throttle Position Sensor - attached to the throttle butterfly - throttle body on the engine

Sweet temp fix Micheal - ran a wire from pin 27 to 35 and problem gone

Still got that AFM?

I think you will find the cable has snapped - I was under the impression that mine had just come off for a while but they can't really. The ball at the end comes off and there is no way to replace it - you gotta do the whole assembly minus motor.

bit of a pain - fully disassemble the door essentially. From memory: 1. Remove door trim 2. Remove top weather seal - it slides off but there are some clips in there that need to be pressed in - will piss you off no doubt but exercise patience... it will slide off easily in the end 3. Unbolt glass and remove 4. Undo motor electrical plug 5. I think I might have even unbolted the motor as well - can't remember - if you can get at it might make it easier 6. Unbolt the assembly and slide out I would also mark or measure the adjustment settings for the four bolts/nuts that hold the reg. assembly in so you can get it back how it was - otherwise takes a little while adjusting to get it perfect. Good luck!

Cheers for the tip. For the record the GTR codes look the same as those for the rb20 Thanks for the help guys

Awesome thanks Rekin - only diff I expect is a different code for each AFM - ill see how I go.

I think one of my AFM's is on the blink. I am going to turn my ECU on to diagnostic mode but I can't get my hands on a list of the codes - does anyone have them? Also - once I turn it into diag mode am I correct that the ECU will use the exhaust temp light on the dash to communicate the error codes?

anybody else want a magna while I am down at the mitsa dealership?

White interior as an option!

it will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine... michael - sounds like your computer date is behind 1 day

i think its diff diameter that is a prob - not width