paulR32gtr

Hi Sid, Yes stock clutch - still in top nic - no problems with it. No problems with the syncros - happily gulps gears at high revs after the syncros have done their thing. I never flat shift as I know it is a sure way to kill a gearbox, always double clutch and rev match / heel toe on downshifts so it has been treated well since arriving. Precisely because of the stock exhaust boost is kept on 0.75kg/cm2 (approx 10.5psi) so nigh on stock. The AVC-R and pods were put on very recently in anticipation of a full exhaust, however I decided to go o/s so have not continued. Also, the GTR richens up and retards timing if you start going over stock boost making the gains negligible. PM'd you I don't believe the R32's (early at least) came with a strut bar - there are certainly no indications around the towers that there was anything bolted to them. No side badges - were not present in Japan. Cheers - Paul

Until on the 10th run the GTR's stock clutch drops its guts and you cruise off!! But then - a nice big twin or triple plate clutch goes in + a massive weight reduction from the drivers hip pocket and it is back in business.

bmp

Legends. Thanks for your help people.

Quite probable. I know the R32 GTSt turbos had nissan stamped on the compressor cover - still both Garrett turbos though.

The standard GTR turbos should have Garrett printed on them. Not sure about the GTS25t's - which R33 are you talking about ? GTR or GTS25t ?

Sounds like the stock turbo's - should have GARRETT, A/R42, M24 and 1 - 1 stamped on the compressor housing.

Thanks pentae. I paid what was considered higher end at the time, but the fact that I had two separate decent offers to buy it when I went to pick it up from quarantine is testament to it's condition. It is really killing me, but to get overseas I need to sell the car - otherwise I am just going to end up sinking huge amounts of money into modifications and never get o/s. I will certainly be trying to find an r32 GTR in the same condition when I return.

Landed mid September last year, was complied and on the road in October.

Price now $27,900

Thanks for the feedback - seriously - all appreciated. I have priced the car based on the condition it is in. Sure 30k (ono) might seem expensive, but consider: $5-7k is common for an Rb26 rebuild $2.5k is common for a new set of turbos Holes drilled/cut in dashes are hard to repair ($?) Ripped/stained seats/trim/carpet never looks good ($?) This car has obviously been looked after well, and personally having owned a number of modified cars in the past, prefer to start with something stock and schmick, that way I am relying on Nissan's engineering skills, not backyard bob that likes a trip to autobarn on the weekend. I can then modify the car how I want it modified, knowing that it has been done properly.

See above

Will take some and upload tomorrow.

bump

Sorry mate - sold.

Yep, 1.1bar is about right, but this may jump around a bit based on air temp etc. What you essentially have is a set size hole in the line that feeds the two wastegate actuators. An electronic boost controller is definately the best place to go after this - I have an Apexi AVC-R which is good and does exactly what I want, however I think there is a thread where a few people have gone to the Blitz i-D and found it quicker to set up / more versatile (more $$$ tho). Cheers - Paul

I am selling my car to go overseas to work. Details are as follow: - 1989 (September) R32 GTR - Gunmetal Grey - Immaculate condition in and out - 67,000kms (arrived in Oz with 53,000kms on the clock) - Full security system alarm/immobilisers/remote entry - Vic reg. until October - Full Australian service history since arrival - Japanese service stickers on airbox (see pic below) - timing belt appears to have been done at 40,574kms - Ben at Racepace serviced and dyno'd car at 184.4kW couple of weeks ago (dyno sheet below) - Sony XPlod MDX-C500X 50Wx4 MiniDisc / AM-FM (jaycar jap converter) / Sony 10 CD Stacker in boot - GReddy digital turbo timer - Replaced battery this week - Replaced injector no 2, was weeping a tiny bit of fuel (5 spares included from low km 97 R33 GTR) Stock standard except following mods done 3000km ago. - APEXi AVC-R electronic boost controller - APEXi Power intake - A pair of Jay's leather gear and handbrake boots - All stock parts included (airbox, stock boost solenoid, brass restrictor) Also included are 2 x spare stock R33 GTR turbos, 1 is perfect, 1 with blown seals so suit rebuild - had these in my garage left over from a previous project long before I decided to get this car. Also couple of other goodies. Ben at Racepace said it's one of the best 89's he's seen and believed the km's to be genuine - said this off his own bat, I didnt push him for his opinion. He pulled the factory nissan spark plugs out when doing the service - did'nt really even need replacing! Photos: Some pics of interior when it was in JP, will take some current ones tomorrow but it has not really changed minus some of Jays leather handbrake/gearstick boots. Oh, and the cup holders come with the car... no cushions tho sorry, some warfie wanted them too badly. Current interior pics. Asking $27,000 including RWC - please serious enquiries only. Mob: 0409 508 201 Email: paul (at) namesoft.biz

Sorry can't separate.

1 x Brand new PowerFC and H/C to suit R32 or R33 GTR. Unused, taken out of box once. Selling as going overseas. $1030.00 - Melbourne - SOLD!

:wassup: pure photographic gold. Lucky bastard he is eh... hehe I wonder if he tripped over...

No no no no no - bum steer you got there dude. The wastegate actuators hold the wastegate flaps closed through a spring / diaphragm arrangement. When pressure is applied to the other side of the diaphragm it compresses the spring, pushes the rod, and the integrated wastegate flaps open, allowing exhaust gases to bypass the exhaust wheel, and therefore control the speed at which the turbo rotates. The R32 GTR (and 33,34) boost control is set up as follows: 1. There is a hard line that runs from the intake manifold directly to both the turbo wastegate actuators. 2. There is another line tee'd into this line that runs to the factory boost control solenoid. 3. The outlet of the factory boost control solenoid then returns air bled back to the intake. This means that the factory computer can use the solenoid to control bleeding of air off the lines to the wastegate actuators to increase the boost. Without any air being bled the actuators open around 0.6 - 0.7 kg / cm^2 (about 9 to 10 psi), the factory computer will then bleed air off this line to increase boost as it sees fit (based on input values from the knock sensor amongst others). The maximum I have seen the factory computer increase boost on my completely standard R32 GTR to is 0.82 kg / cm^2 (about 11.5 psi). Best way to increase boost is to install an elec boost controller and run lines directly to the wastegate actuators (See my last post on http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=66207 for an easier way using the stock lines) - or you could install some kind of restrictor in each of the hoses running off the wastegate actuators. Btw the vacuum diagram in the r32 gtr manual is pure gold for understanding the system.

Can anyone read/confirm what the following stickers mean From what I can see: Top one mentions PCV valve Second one - this looks like the timing belt replacement sticker - 40,574km Third one is useless Fourth one seems to have 10 X km on it - the X is a japanese character that kind of looks like 75 joined up - would this mean thousand? Pit work one doesnt matter.

Can anyone read/confirm what the following stickers mean From what I can see: Top one mentions PCV valve Second one - this looks like the timing belt replacement sticker - 40,574km Third one is useless Fourth one seems to have 10 X km on it - the X is a japanese character that kind of looks like 75 joined up - would this mean thousand? Pit work one doesnt matter.

Thanks for that - have some r33 items on the way. What pressure where they flow tested at? Do you happen to know max fuel pressure on a stock r32 GTR ?

Just jammin here but I assume heat would be the cause. Differences in thermal expansion between the metal shaft and the ceramic exhaust wheel could cause it to detach... Whether the heat is a result of exhaust restriction or excessive shaft rpms would depend on the setup I spose.