shif_tea

non-EFI only handles like 100psi or something, the other stuff handles like 900 or so i think (not sure if thats correct values). SW20GT - Nah i didn't ask for fuel line for gtst, asked for 3/16" (4.8mm) EFI fuel line. They looked for a few mins and said they didn't have the correct size, only had 5/16" or something like that. I'll go back today and try again, if its still no good i'll try enzed or pirtek like siks suggested.

lol yeah i did, and i asked the useless employees there too. Maybe just wasnt' at that store

Okay i thought this would be really easy but for some reason i'm having a difficult time finding some fuel hose for my R33 GTST. I was finishing a long trip the other day when my car suddenly stunk like petrol. Pulled over straight away and found my fuel hose (near fuel filter) had split and pissed petrol everywhere. NRMA came and put in a new one but as they didn't have any high pressure stuff they only put in non-EFI hose and told me to take it easy and change it asap. The hose on there is 3/16" and trying to find this in EFI has proven diffficult, tried repco, autobarn and supercheap. Does anyone know if this is the correct size hose even?? Or is it actually supposed to be bigger. I didn't keep the old hose so i don't know what it was originally, and he replaced both sides of the filter. Also anyone got any other ideas where i can buy some? I'm from inner west sydney by the way. Cheers

oh yeah true dat. Sorry didn't notice before...carry on

can i just ask why you would want to do that???

headlights hitting or blinkers??? My indicators wouldn't clear the fmic.

i used 3 inch and it was fine. If you use 3.5 just make sure its not gonna cut too much out or hit anything vital, but i guess if AL used 4 it should be fine

besides i use it to tell me how long to prime the fuel pump before i switch on the car!! Kinda come to like it....even though passengers worry the first time!!

yeah its the vents. I've got the same thing, pretty common. vent motor gets jammed up. Its a mission apparently to get in there to fix it so i haven't botherd. AC still works fine though

Why not go one better and rig your car up like the kit car in Knight Rider??? Make it have a voice and it can tell you whats happening... As for the other thing, i'm sure its possible, but if you have an RSM anyway, why bother with the expense

Thanks man, i talked to the guys at xclutch before about buying straight from them and they said the price is the same as from their dealers. I'm gonna order one from hi octane racing. Cheers again for the information mate. Good thread

Hey mate, i bought the same kit as u off C&B and was just wondering if you have the part number of that flywheel from Xtreme clutches. I've been thinking of getting one before i got it installed and this has just made up my mind. Cheers on the info man

hahahah nah its all good, i was careful with the dryer and didn't let the coils or wires get too hot or anything and today no miss. Just a huge waste of time. I won't be doing that again, i think silver gtst's idea is a good one. I used to do it with my vl and it wasn't that bad cause the water could evaporate more easily (no cover). Lesson learnt

Yesterday i decided it would be a good idea to wash my car thoroughly as i haven't done it in a while. Had the idea to wash out my engine bay which was looking pretty grimy. Sprayed some degreaser on the engine cover (over the spark plugs) then gave it a quick squirt with the hose to wash it off (not realising that it is actually not waterproof at all). Spent today with it running on 4 and 5 cylinders (didn't start playing up till i got far enough from work that i couldn't drop it home and drive the other car) and 2 hours tonight with a hairdryer drying it out... My question is does anyone have a way they use to wash the engine bay without getting water in there??? Cheers

if you have a multimeter you can check to see if the actual window switch is working or not. Then if its just that can short out the connections to at least get your window back up. Without a meter it will be hard, won't be able to see if you're getting voltage to it or not, to find out if its the motor dead or a fuse blown etc etc. If the passenger side one still works fuse should be ok. Duct tape some plastic over it if its getting rainy

once u do a little bit of this the clutch won't hold up too long. Mine lasted only about 2 months after putting the boost to 10psi!!

man that sux. I bought a kit off a guy on this website and it had the nipple and all that with it. Tapped and all just had to put some plumbers tape on and screw it in. Was actually a good kit

most of the kits u buy come with the nipple already built in. At least it was with mine. Should just plug in.

lol i'm with Al especially with the swearing bit. Ended up taking me like 14- 15 hours (first time i'd removed front bar!!) and i think i now have the copyright on most swear words. Also like he said, if in doubt get it done by a pro. But if you do it yourself, might wanna get some paint to quickyl spray over the hole you cut in the body etc to stop rust forming. If you pm me your email addy i can email you the hybrid instuctions.

yeah i'll have to wait till i get home though cause thats where the pics are dude. I took some of the actual install but they're pretty crap and can't see much. I'll post em anyway.

bad connection to the AFM?? If you're getting the resistance changing slightely in the wiring or connector you'll get voltage drops that will mess with the comp. Dunno but its something to check out.

Hey man, installed similar cooler, on same car. Yeah fan blades need to be chopped. On the hybrid ones ther should be a connector on the tubing that goes into the throttle body for the return line on your solenoid, so that should be no dramas. I chopped my front bar myself and it looks ok from the front but i made the mistake of letting my dad do the chopping with the angle grinder and he's a bit slap happy. I would have preferred to draw out where to cut etc etc, he just free handed it... I'll get around to fixing it one day!!

yeah i had that problem with my fmic install, the indicators hit on the IC. I moved it back a bit but it still pushed them out a bit. Been meaning to get around to fix it up one day.

yeah about 1699 for a set new not including fitting.

Al thats a nice front bar mod man. Did you do that yourself or someone do it for you?? I've got the same front bar with my fmic but i have only cut enough away so that it fit. Been meaning to do same sort of thing as that.