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That looks great. Really good work there. I've been restoring various parts slowly around my car and I've noticed I have roughly 5cm of surface rust on the pass. side seam, the tower in general feels and sounds ok though so hopefully it hasn't gone too far. Good to see threads like this. It's the next thing I'm going to tackle.

Maybe he means a BCM but they don't have one.

Get a mazda 3. 😁

The midnight purple v-spec... have a look at the boot shot. Looks like it was rusty as and been covered up. Eitherway their cars like look like polished turds. The condition doesn't match the k's in my opinion. Keep looking, I know it may feel like forever but the right one will pop up.

Old thread revival but my windshield rubber is cactus also, where did you buy that rubber? I emailed and called Clark Rubber and they weren't overly helpful, plus can't go into any store to look for myself with stage 4.

Welcome to the forum mate.

At 0 your in positive, depends how heavy your foot is. 7+ is never reached unless you're running higher than stock boost about 14psi, in which case that gauge is useless anyway. I tested my sender with my multi. and it checks out as functioning normally. As for my temp gauge it sits just slightly under half for me, 1/3 I would say which is normal, on a hotter day 30+ it sits very close to half and stays there. Plenty of videos on YouTube with gauges for your reference anyway. Good luck.

Right. I'll test my sender if that's the case, my car has always read low.

When you turn key to ON position turbo needle sits almost centre, on idle should be close to the -7, ever so slightly past it. My temp gauge reads 1/4 to 1/3 normally.

Call Nissan. 4406037P25 is the part number. Otherwise amayama or partsouq.

You know what you need to do mate... ? don't fight it. Do it!

Definently subbing to this. As much as I love the GTR and all the builds going, it's nice to see some GTS-T love. ?

f**k all. 15psi. Higher boost applications, yes, bcpr7es at 0.8mm.

I use those plugs with 1.1 gap and have zero issues. Drop gap if your coils are shit, otherwise leave at 1.1

Do it once, do it right. No room for error on an engine rebuild.

You can thank the Fast and the Furious franchise for that.

Air leak 100%. Check your lines to charcoal canister and the canister itself. I also had a leak from the boost sensor to plenum tiny little hose had split and I had exactly the issues you're having now.

I agree with all these posts don't sell the 33 you'll regret it. You've already pumped 7k into it, fix it, keep it in the garage, drive it on the weekend and know it will be good again. It will make all the difference IF you decide to sell in years to come. People laugh at me when I tell them my prediction is 40 to 50k for a GTS-T in 5+ years. If GTR prices keep zooming like they are, they WILL follow. Look at VL turbo as an example I never thought they'd go for what they are now. The amount of cars for sale is dwindling fast and this will bring values up 100%. Just my opinion.

Give me a vin for the 32 and 33 gtr vin and ill be able to tell you through FAST. Even search amayama by VIN yourself and compare part numbers with diagrams.

Do it!!!!

I recieved a new harness from the states that I ordered 2 months ago today!

Read Kinkstah's thread re: engineering a car to give you some idea. I think its a headache and not worth spending that cash on your 31. I'd save the pennies if you're that keen and buy a 33 and work on that. Or save for a deposit on a house and just enjoy your car the way it is until you get more experienced on the roads. My 2c.

Forgot to ask, did you repair and paint yourself?

That looks great mate. Makes me miss my 95 I had years ago. Nice Shepherd in the background there. Great protection. ?

If you're going to turbo keep the stock airbox with the growler. Pods are shit anyway.