stiffler

i think he may have been waiting

yeah stupid but i went to grab my lunch and paid the price

stolen for keysborough this morning at 6:15 rumor is it might be around preston. Car has 20'" black wheels with silver lip up front and standard 19" 5 spoke alloys at rear. Car is very distinct and reward is on offer so please share this. Here is a youtube link of thief

pm sent

If i knew i was gonna have storage issues i wouldnt have rebuilt the engine and gearbox. Its either sell this or the gtr and that isnt gonna happen. I guess it will be the buyers gain and my loss.

Price drop to $6800 with a different audio system in the car

Moved to new house and have no room so car must go! Engine was rebuilt 5000km ago with Ross forged pistons, shot peened rods and head has new valves and springs. Gearbox was rebuilt about same time and HD clutch was installed. Splitfire ignition coils Garret gt2860 roller bearing turbo, boost controller, pod filter, aftermarket big front mount intercooler and hard pipe kit,exhaust and autometer tacho with shift light, fuel pressure and boost guages. Car has a complete alpine system with alpine head deck, alpine 12" R type subwoofer in custom ported box, alpine R type splits up front aswell as 2 alpine amplifiers mounted in the boot ( this system is loud ). Battery has been relocated to boot and I also have a standard exhaust that comes as a spare for the car. Car has 18 inch rims, tinted windows. I can include a roadworthy certificate for the car but its best to have a chat with me first. Engine rebuild and gearbox rebuild cost me $6000 alone. I'm asking $8500 or i can do cheaper without stereo just depends on what you want. I'm located in Melbourne and you can contact Armee on 0410274176. If I dont pick up please send a text and I'll call back ( work doesnt let me use the mobile ).

If I remember correctly the front bar reo has got nothing to do with the mounting of the intercooler.

thanks for your reply. I guess no one knows why the r34 gtr cooler flow better, or apparently flow better

seriously no one knows the answer?

I have an r32 gtr with what looks like a standard gtr cooler that has an alloy look in appearance. From my understanding the 32's and 33's came out with black coolers but this one may have been cleaned and doesnt have a temp sensor hole like the 34's have. I recently bought a 34 gtr cooler to put on my car and i noticed it seemed a touch smaller so i whipped out the measuring tape and this is what i found. r32gtr = 600x290 r34gtr = 600x265 On the forums ppl said that the 34 cooler are a little bit better then the 32 and 33 coolers but i havent found anywhere that it says that the 34 is a touch smaller. The 34 basically has one cooling passage less and fins either side of it which results in the smaller size. Can someone confirm the sizes for me please?

Im after front guards/fenders for an r32 GTR. Paint is not important just needs to be straight no damage. I'm really only after drivers side guard but will buy both if available. Please call or leave message on 0410274176 because i dont check the forum often. Thank you

hi guys hope someone can really help here, I've got a 1994 r32 gtr and ever since i got it it had an issue with the torque gauge (at least i thought it was the gauage back then) where it would show torque going to the front wheels prematurely. Back the the car was pretty much standard with 7 pounds boost and the issue didnt really make the car drive different. Now the car has 20 psi and ive nearly lost control twice because of this issue. Basically the front wheels apply too early and to the best of my knowledge and according to the torque guage the front wheels seem to be engaging according to boost. even at a pound or two boost i notice the guage come on and under full boost the front wheels spin while the rears still have traction. Ive changed tyres and it did not fix the issue and yes all 4 where changed with the same brand and spec/size and it didnt help at all. I can hear the pump prime when i turn the car on and i thought that maybe the system wasnt bled properly the first time when i got it so when i changed the clutch me and a mate bled the system and it works the same as before. Please help as it affecting the driving and my safety and i woould love to have the car drive the way it should

i recently had the car tuned and the tuner said that the car might have cams (even though i dont think so). They said that adjusting the cam gears had no impact on power or response which leaves me a little stumped. Car idles just like standard

When i pulled the turbos off to check what they were exectly there was a tag on the turbo inbetween the compressor and exhaust housing which had this info. im not sure which code it was so correct me if im wrong AA401 r33 n1 bb .62 AA402 r34 n1 bb .62 AA403 r34 n1 bb .42 there is a code for the r32 gtr n1 turbo but its not a ballbearing turbo. My number my be a bit off and im sure the .62 refers to size of exhaust housing. I've got a dyno graph but i reckon the guys just gave me a printout of another car because things just dont make sense

ive seen wrxs with 190awkw and these guys were doing shit times like 14's but 1 guy with 170-180 did a 13.2 and he could drive ( better then the others at least)

just buy a gtr and do urself a favor

I have a r32 gtr with r34 n1 turbos ( the larger ones i think its the 402's ). Im running 20 psi boost but it feels really laggy under 3500- 4000 rpm. does this sound right?

gtr will win. if all else is the same u have 700 rwhp and he has 600 awkw thats a big difference

How can I tell if my gtr has standard cams or something else?

any1 know if theres a difference between e85 at a servo and the e85 that u buy in a drum?

do u have the standard air box?

Hi guys, i dont post normally but i just had to get in on this one. Firstly ive had a few different cars including big v8s and i hang around some boys that are really into there racing ( yes mostly v8's ) I do however drive a r32 gtr as a daily driver. What i find most upsetting is that people look at HP figures as if its all that counts, which couldnt be further from the truth. * we all know that if u take out weight from a car the car will go faster * Suspension setup to me is high on the list but gets higher and higher the more power u make...u might say bullshit...thats fine talk to sum guys running 10's, 9's, 8's even prostock guys all the way to top fuellers and they will all tell u they can make more power no problem its just putting that power down thats the problem. * I have not heard one guy on this forum or other japanese car forums ever talk about the moroso calculator. Yes it does apply to a forced induction aswell as it would to a naturally aspirated car but if u take into account that a turbo car will usually make more mph ( maybe 3% more )on a 1/4 mile pass that an NA car, but it will usually make a slower 60 ft time ( by .1 - .2 ) compared to an NA car. Take these things into consideration and u will have a very good estimate at what your car is capable of.... Not what it will do, but if all things are right like suspension, driving technique, gearing etc * Another thing just incase some people dont understand this but it is easily possible for a 250kw car to beat a 300kw car in any race let it be circuit or drag. Reason why is the way we describe power..yes 300kw is the max but whats the average? the 300kw car may have 300 above 6500 and anything below is like your driving a corolla but the 250kw car makes power at 3500 and pulls strong through to 7500. Hence why some dyno competition cars run crap numbers at the strip. * next point is and im sure we have all seen them at the strip is the guy that makes 400rwkws but for some reason just manages to get the best ET of 11.8 @116mph....Basically if he hasnt got a problem with the car then his car isnt making 400 at all. Dynos are a good tool... no a great tool but they dont do everything and to be honest if i was getting my car dynod and tuned id be taking it to the guy that says he can get the most out of it. Hence ur average guy isnt going to fork out $10000 for a rebuild thats gonna get him 350kw when the shop down the street says for the same price ill get u 400kws.... Ask these guys to sell u a 11 sec package thats guaranteed and then they'll start talking different. * My ford sedan 351 v8 ran 12.6's @ 109mph with 1.8 60ft all day long according to the moroso calculator i should run 12.2 on the dot with that mph and the calc shows the car makes......350hp..... and u might ask well why isnt it running that well number one it isnt that far off and number 2 the convertor in it was small. Basically im saying that dyno figures can and are overated by some people and if u want to see how much power ( at the very least ) your making look at the mph because if u know the weight of the car and the mph u will have a very close ballpark figure of ur ET. Just for reference i think it goes like this 12's- 105 to 110mph 11's- 115 to 125mph 10's- 130 to 140mph these are just approximations but you will get the idea

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