Lolrick

So SAU NSW is like the Western Sydney Wanderers of car clubs? Not that you can really trust a motoring description that uses the word "fabulous"!

Thank you very much for the input, guys - much appreciated! Kyle has kindly offered to help me get through the firewall, and he's only a 20 minute drive down the M4. I did ask a question earlier in the audio thread and got the answers i'm looking for (plus i'm a stringent researcher/googler - I ask all of my stupid questions on the forums) I'm confident with all of the other wiring for the subs. It's not an urgent job either, happy to wait. Cheers!

I'll definitely take you up on the offer, will pm you - Cheers!

Hey Kyle, I actually came to look at your R33 towards the end of last year, came with my mate and his white S15 - thanks heaps for the offer! Did you end up taking the wheel and splash guards off to get the wires through?

Still looking!

Done! See you there, guys!

AASA Licence = sent off via snail mail SAU NSW = Shell PMd Next, to claim a spot for Texi - do I have to go through both eventbright AND the email? "The only way to secure a spot is through sending in an entry form/email and payment through eventbrite" Thanks for the help guys

Perfect! One question, however: At the end of the AASA form, there is a "competency declaration by club/organisation/person" - is this a requirement, or optional only for reference? Thanks!

This actually concerns me, I'm looking to organise my SAU NSW membership and CAMS/AASA licence in the hopes of catching this texi (First one!! . Is there any difference between AASA/CAMS 2nd level licences? From what I can gather, AASA is slightly cheaper, and grants you access only really to the Texis (not that I'm inclined yet for CAMS track driving) Can I apply for this licence before being part of a motor club? (i.e. SAU NSW) There is of course processing time required to join the club, which may not leave much time for the AASA to process, and texi is less than 3 weeks away.

I myself just bought a whole new regulator assembly and installed it with the help of my house-mate. Got it on fairly easily, but couldnt bloody get the glass to come up flush with the seals. no matter how much adjusting, we couldnt get it. assuming that something got bent by a previous owner or something... anyway, it sort of 'fixed itself' after a few weeks, comes up fairly straight now! go figure...

Hi SAU, I have a 4 gauge wiring kit that needs to run from the battery in the engine bay to the amp in the boot. If anyone has this set up, I'd appreciate if I could drop in and have a look where you ran the cables from the engine bay, and how you mounted the amp in the boot. I understand most run their wires through a 'hidden' gap near the driver side wheel well, but I'd like to have a look first if it's convenient for anyone. I'm in Newington, so if anyone is nearby (up to say a half hour drive, i suppose?) and has this wiring done on an R34 GTT, I'd love to hear from you Cheers! Mick

Hi gents, I have a 1998 silver GTT that spends her life outside. Can you please recommend a sealant for her to be applied with a hand applicator? Preference for durability and cost under $100. Cheers!

Alright gents, you've encouraged me to give it a crack. I feel comfortable knowing that if i do f**k everything up, at least only the engine will die, and i most likely wont

Lol i had in my head that it was today too, good thing i checked the thread before i left hahaha. I'm only 5 minutes away though, so i could have passed it off as a 'small drive'

Just the engine bay one - will start lobbying mechanically minded friends to help, otherwise Taki (my mechanic at Perfect Run) does it for $90, which i'm happy to pay

Mechanic himself suggested just wait till i come back in for the service and will have the car on the hoist - would you consider this important enough to move forward?

For reference, took this into the mechanic today. At some point, the previous owner had messed around with the sender, and the two brushes connecting the float and the rods had one snapped off. My mechanic extended the snapped wire and put it all back together, and the gauge now reads permanently alright. The fuel gauge sometimes read correctly before when at a certain angle where the rod would travel and push against the broken wire. However, the bracket holding the pump and sender in the tank had obviously been exposed to air/condensation, and have built up considerable rust. Rusty fuel got everywhere when the tank was opened up. Fortunately, the fuel filter appears to have been doing its job, though its looking a little old and will definitely be replaced in the next service in 2000kms time. As for the sound, I swear that i can not hear the whine anymore. This will probably be fully muffled when i put the car seats back in All up, $330 GONE! labour only. This is why we ask the forums first Hope this helps anyone that may have similar issues in the future.

Will enlist the help of a professionally qualified mate! I'm getting the fuel gauge looked at on Wednesday-week, so will drop into Jaycar after that is sorted. Cheers!

Yeah i think my problem got fixed when i pulled out the stereo and saw that the boost gauge had been spliced into stereo wiring without it being taped up. So basically i covered every bit of exposed wire in electrical tape - all good!

As someone tentatively looking to join the club, I'm looking really forward to swinging by!

I've had suggestions that it's coming out of the speakers, but i had RCA cables and remote running down one side that are unplugged at both ends, and no power wires at all.

No offense taken mate, I'm confident crimping the thinner speaker wire, but I feel this thicker stuff should have some solder on this as well, rather than just hammering the terminal on - I don't want a dodgy connection with the power

Do you know if Jaycar can connect the terminals for me on the power and grounding wire? I don't want to risk my own connection for the heavy gauge wiring I've been sitting on the wiring because I want to get an issue with my fuel pump/sender resolved before i start mounting and wiring in the boot. Thanks for all the input!

This is quickly looking like one for the mechanic

Don't want to go to Jaycar... my local one, on victoria road rydalmere, has a steep driveway and i think i'd scrape on it...