Lolrick

Thanks mate, that does all make sense, though the crutchfield page i linked above says it doesn't have an onboard fuse? How many metres of cable do you use for a skyline? The kits seem to offer pretty good value, especially online. I'm actually hoping to get some with pre-installed o-ring terminals, as i have never soldered before and would feel safer with a factory connection.

Hi guys, Here's an electrical diagnostics challenge, I believe. A few weeks ago, my fuel gauge started playing up. It basically went straight up to a 'Full' tank and stayed there, even as I used fuel. Every now and then, after i start the car, it will drop to the actual fuel level. However, after 5 mins it will slowly creep back up again. All of the fuel sender issues reported for R33 and R34 models (I have a R34 turbo coupe) seem to show the fuel level ok until half way, where it will stay, OR it will immediately drop to 0. I have not experienced this, so I want to see if anyone has had a similar problem they solved without touching the fuel pump and sender (I am not a mechanic, would prefer to avoid going there unless no one has any other ideas) I noticed when i removed my back seat recently that when the engine is on (and even perhaps when priming the ignition?) there is a high pitched whine coming from the wiring/distributing harness halfway through the cabin on the drivers side (will post picture tomorrow in daylight). I'm thinking of hitting this with some contact cleaner? Has anyone experienced anything like this? Thanks! Mick

Perfect! Any idea why there is a price difference between the two options that came up? And is there really any different between that Stinger kit and this one: http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Accessories/Amp_Wiring/Stinger_SK6241_4-Gauge_Amplifier_Power_Wiring_Kit My biggest question though, is the amp specifies a 60A fuse. This seems pretty small compared to what many wiring kits offer (many are at least 120A). How important is it to stick to this? I obviously don't want to melt anything...

Sure did, cheers mate! Will make sure to keep the gain nice and low. Cheers for the input, will do! Have you guys got any advice on wires at all? I have no idea what i'm looking for with speaker wire

Come on guys, this wasn't an April fool's Anyway, I've done some more homework with the resistance. I understand now, with a dual voice coil sub, that you can run parallel to get 2 ohm and you can run in series to get 8 ohm. However, can I wire this for 4 ohm? Will 500W RMS be too much for a 700W Peak sub? Thanks guys

Hi Guys, I said I wouldn't, but I seem to have gone out and purchased a sub and amp (second hand but barely used) for the R34, which I'll be installing myself. Amp is MTX THUNDER500.1 (1000W peak, 300RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms, 500RMS x1 @ 2 ohms) http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HbQaXv4HzFn/p_236THND5K1/MTX-THUNDER500-1.html#overview-tab Sub is Option Audio 12' Slimline 700W/350WRMS, with D.C. Coil Resisitance (sic) of 'dual 4.0' http://www.optionaudio.com.au/specs/12SL11BOX.pdf I have three questions: 1) Where can I find the cheapest amp wiring kit without risking a random chinese ebay seller? Amp spec calls for 4 gauge with 60 amp fuse. I already have RCA and remote wires, but need speaker wires as well as power wires. Would love to hear your recommendations, otherwise I'll just head to Jaycar. 2) How do i know the resistance that I am using with the amp? Where can I set this? I can't see a switch. Or is this determined by the speaker that I am connecting it to? (in this case, 4 ohm dual coil) The amp outputs to the speaker say '2 ohm minimum'. Would i follow this wiring diagram: http://m.seimg.net/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/1_sub_DVC_4_ohm_mono.jpg 3) The Amp contained a booklet separate to the manual called "EMC Compliance Instructions" for C-TICK standards and showed where to put several ferrites filters. Are these necessary? I have not heard of their use before for car audio systems and could not find much info for them for car audio use. Once again, big thanks! Mick

Im pretty sure that it's almost directly under the battery, you can sort of see the bolts from above the engine bay when you pop the hood, but i think you need to get underneath the car to access them! Just follow the cable from the battery

Will do, cheers for you help!

Of course, when i did the stereo install I do remember that it was taking power (or at least ignition/illumination) from there - what should i be looking out for?

Sorry mate, but what was the EBC? I've checked the tail lights, they are OK, now i start the long process of elimination. Apparently cigarette lighters are often the main culprit.

Cheers for the reply, I appreciate it

I've searched the entire first page of Google and checked most forums, but have not been able to find any photos of where the grounding points are, and i've peeked at the engine bay myself and couldn't find them - maybe you have to get at them from underneath. All i know is the main one is 'near the alternator'. Will try and ask someone at work tomorrow - sorry I can't be any help mate!

Hi guys, I'm trying to do some detective work on what my cars previous owner got up to. I think he may have done this mod to my R34 GT-T, though it's kind of sloppy. In the attached photo, you can see the open wires. Now, I have an aftermarket boost controller, meaning I should not have to worry about this variable boost. However, this is not my issue. I thought that I should cover up the open wires pictured, so i sprayed contact cleaner on them and wrapped them in electrical tape - first I taped the black wire, then i taped that tightly to the white wire. However, I am now constantly blowing my tail light fuse (which includes dash lights and parkers). Could this possibly be related, and does the black wire need to be earthed? Thanks!!

OK, I was thinking of just doing the bicarb soda and brush approach first, then clean/sand the engine bay earth points. Will let you know how i go with that, as otherwise I'm going to an auto-electrician and hoping for a quick/easy fix! Have you had any issues with your fuel gauge, btw? Mine keeps setting itself to full (the needle isn't stuck, its just reading incorrectly) and im hoping that fixing the grounding will help this.

How did you end up going with this? I'm having a similar problem, will need to start checking my grounds too! Did this solve your issue? Mine is that I keep blowing my tail light fuse, so it's either bad grounds or a loose wire somewhere

So literally all that i've done is purchase the smallest cable ties and put one over the original hose that connect to the thin pipe/connector near the manifold. I inquired about replacing the house, but the guy from autobarn said its no good, because the end of the hose that goes over the manifold is much, much thinner than the other end that goes over the tri-connector. However, i havent had it pop off again! With the open wires, ive sprayed them with contact cleaner and wrapped it in electrical tape. However, I've just found that i keep blowing my tail-light fuse. Do you think this is related? Thanks again!

Quick question, so the guy at Autobarn reckons it would be easier to cable tie the end, as the width of the hose is different at each end. I tried to cable tie it, but it still feels loose. Am i better of getting a clamp and replacing the zip tie?

Hi guys, For those interested that may come across this thread, here is my 98 R34 GT-T with Nismo Smoked Side and Front indicators. Side indicators came with orange bulbs, and the front indicators came with orange bulbs and the unit where the bulb plugs into and that plugs into the wiring harness. Easy job to fit Thanks, Mick

Do you mean the part where i open the fuel cap to fill the tank at the servo, or the part near the spare tyre where i access the sender? Will post more photos later on when I've replaced the hoses, let the noobies like me see what the issues are. This forum is enormously helpful, but I find those without much prior experience benefit greatly from seeing a few photos along with guides/solutions!

I'll probably ask around on the forums a little more before i rip out the sender and have a look - most people with sender issues have their gauge drop to zero once it gets halfway, whereas mine is stuck on full. I'm hoping there's an easier fix! also with that high boost mod, that would have been before the boost controller was installed, correct? Boost mod just means there's no 5-7 variable psi? Thanks!

Alright, so I had some guys at work investigate (work at a fleet leasing office, lots of qualified mechanics around). Turns out it was a tiny vacuum hose that had popped off, which comes off very easily (pictured, on and off. Wasn't near the boost controller, but near the manifold). Will check out autobarn and grab some silicon hose and clamps and update all of those hoses there. Both gauges working properly - I'm quite relieved! However, the guys also pointed out some uncovered wires (pictured) - their suggestion was to shrink tube it. From the photos can anyone offer any advice, and tell me what that particular unit does? Should I crimp it as well? Further, the fuel gauge still is not budging from 'full', which is kinda concerning as it has now been 5 days and nearly 200kms since i filled up. Anyone have any ideas for this?

I've had someone mention that perhaps it's a fuse that's gone? Will investigate that as well - has anyone had any fuse related problems (and possibly a solution why it blew in the first place) Additionally, I've noticed that so far the fuel gauge has not moved from above the full position - is this related?

Music to my ears So like I mentioned, the stock boost gauge sits at 0 (so it hasn't dropped to -1, but sits halfway at 0) and the Greddy boost control shows only 0, no matter what i do with the throttle. Can a split hose lead to showing no reading at all? Which hose would it be (i.e. where does it come from and where does it lead) As i mentioned, I still can hear the blow off valve, I just can't feel any boost Cheers for the speedy replies, guys!

Thanks, will get a mechanic mate to check for me at work tomorrow. I hoping that would be a relatively cheap and easy fix, to replace the hose?

Hi SAU, I have an R34 GT-T with a high flowed turbo and Greddy profec spec b boost controller. Normally, both my stock boost gauge (part of the centre tri-cluster) and the greddy boost controller correctly read my boost, which the previous owner informed me was set to approximately 14 psi. He also told me that the vehicle had been tuned by toshi (If you're reading this, thanks!) However, I've noticed that just recently the Greddy unit and my stock boost gauge both sit at 0, and won't budge no matter how hard I'm flooring it and at what gear. I feel that i also have lost my significant boost, as normally it comes on quite hard. I can still hear my blow off valve working, and the car still revs freely and drives nicely, but there just isn't the same amount of boost power. I'm usually right into my vehicle DIYs, but honestly this has gone somewhat over my head. I had a cursory look under the bonnet to check that the boost gauge was not obviously disconnected, and i had a flick through the settings to make sure it wasn't just in the wrong mode. I will investigate the sender unit, as per M35 Factory Boost Gauge Repair However, this only made reference to the stock boost gauge, and not to actually controlling the boost pressure. Would love to hear if anyone has any solutions from similar experiences where the boost pressure just dropped off and stopped reading overnight. Thanks! Mick