kingtube69

Wonder if you just have a dark sense of humour or I just missed the joke. Terrible suspension, would not recommend.

As requested! Went to Bathurst (had to do Mt. Panorama) then back down past a lookout at Kurrajong on the long weekend - Took plenty of pictures

Makes sense! Thanks - Guess this is why my non base height adjustable pedders have that helper spring on it (which after 8 years is now essentially useless - They are cactus now)

Thanks Reuben! hope it helps Thanks Christian! Are you able to assist with the title change? Should be shifter not s-hifter lol. Cheers Josh

Smells fishy

Who did you get to tune it?

Just did a DIY - Pending mod approval

Hi All, Another DIY for those interested Requirements: - New bush (brass or OEM will suffice) Tools: - 10mm socket with an extension - Ratchet - Hammer - Block of wood (is this even a tool) - Bench vice Difficulty: Low 1) Start by unscrewing the shift knob 2) Remove the ashtray and the screw from behind it 3) Grab the shifter surround from the bottom side and pull it upwards 4) Undo the bolts securing the shifter ring (possibly the wrong term) 5) Remove the rubber boots and sleeves as shown (including the shifter ring from above) 6) Remove the boot that covers the hole for the shifter where it enters the gearbox to reveal a big circlip 7) Using circlip pliers remove the circlip from the opening and lift the shifter out 8) Put the old bush in a vice and bend it till it pops off 9) Clean the surfaces and apply some gearbox oil to the ball where the new bush will seat 10) Find a nut that matches the thread of the shifter and screw it onto the end of the shifter 11) Put the bushing on the end of the shifter and place them both against a block of wood 12) Using a suitable hammer, hit the nut hard and the bushing should pop into place I took the opportunity to replace the boot that covers the top of the gearbox as mine was ripped. It may be worthwhile changing yours while you have it apart. Installation is reverse of removal - Be careful as the circlip can be quite painful Bonus stage - Paint the shifter ring if you have time - No one will see it but if you're like me, it will annoy you. I decided to replace the OEM bush with a brand new one and do away with the brass one. I might go with the brass one in the future but for now brand new OEM is fine. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Hey Johnny - Curious to get some more info on height adjustment if you're willing to share. I read on their old website somewhere that they recommend adjusting the spring perch (which would effectively change the spring preload) Is this correct?

I personally just stuck with it after an hour of messing around - Definitely feels better and only cost a few bucks from Kudos Yep, Wouldn't seat low enough chucked a brand new OEM one in and it slipped right in and seated as expected. Might try again another day but the stock one is fine. FWIW I have nothing personal against GKTech and they have been very helpful with this - I have contacted them now

I would also be interested in knowing this. I don't particularly want to go Varex but I want a nice good flowing exhaust that isn't stupidly loud.

Worked on the Pulsar yesterday and the Skyline today Pulsar got new brakes, driveshafts, brake fluid and some general cleanup I went to change the shifter bushing today on the Skyline but the bushing wouldn't seat low enough to get the circlip into the top of the gearbox. So after lots of messing around I finally wrestled the shifter out and put a brand new OEM bush on. Pics below Found a car cover at Supercheap One more because I thought it was funny

I also HAD the same problem - It went away after I pulled the gearbox off last time. If I was to do it again I would go NPC

I'm not sure if you can customise the compensation shut off temp but below is my last logs - Close guess

Didn't get a shot the gasket maker was thick enough (maybe too thick) that it sealed it all up most of it was left on the housing side some on the block. I too am surprised After it went to JEM so it was running a bit weird too not reaching normal temperature Was going to tag you in the photo on Facebook but you know...

Some pics from a few weeks ago when we had back burning in Sydney - Went down the coast in the hopes that it would be less smoky down the coast but it was still pretty bad. Still trailing daytime photography so these are the two of about 100 that I took that I liked. Heading to Bathurst this week for a drive as I have a couple of days off so I will take some more pics up there too.

Feeling a bit stupid after all of this but lesson learnt. I hope this helps out others when they install a new thermostat too

I have Exedy Extra HD Cushioned Button, 290KW, plenty of hard launches and plenty of clutch kicks 20,000 kms later and it still feels fine. Still doesn't slip at all on me despite the abuse I've given it. I only went Exedy because I had a hard time getting a hold of the guys at NPC so I gave up.

Hi All, Found the problem recently This happened because its difficult to put the housing on without bumping the thermostat out of the block (gasket maker grabs it and moves it) so I made up some studs and tried again Thanks again for the help!

Hi All, I just wanted to share a few tips I learned recently when I changed my thermostat. This is the second time I'm doing it now Tools - 12mm socket - Ratchet - Uni Joint and extension - Hacksaw or angle grinder - Pliers, long nose, snub nose either will do Recommendations - Get a new thermostat housing Parts - Thermostat - Thermostat Housing - Coolant - Long bolts or threaded rod the same thread size/pitch as the bolts for the housing/block Steps 1) Drain the coolant from the radiator - In my case I just removed the lower radiator hose 2) Cover the alternator with a bag to reduce the chance it will get covered in coolant 3) Remove all wiring from in the way - I found this made it much easier to get everything out and back in 4) Unbolt the three bolts from the housing - This is where you will need the Uni joint, and ratchet (will need extensions here too) *not my image - I borrowed it from Google images because I forgot to take one* 5) Clean the mating face on the block of all old coolant and grime 6) Put a 2mm bead of gasket maker on the housing 7) Fit the new thermostat to the block ensuring the jiggle pin is at 12 O'clock 8) Cut the heads off the two long bolts or use threaded rod and screw it into two of the three bolt holes on the engine block 9) Place the thermostat housing over the two studs 10) In one swift motion place the thermostat housing against the engine block and insert one of the bolts into the blank hole 11) Tighten the bolt to 16-21 Nm as per factory spec 12) Remove one of the fabricated studs and put another bolt in again torquing to spec 13) Repeat step 12 for the final bolt 14) Fill the radiator up and bleed it (plenty of guides online already so I won't bore anyone) --------------------------------------- I wrote this guide because I had a problem recently when I installed another thermostat. It's very difficult to locate the housing over the thermostat without the gasket maker grabbing it and moving it out of the way. This is the result of my last attempt

My neighbours don't like how loud my car is so I spent today at a friends house working on our cars and changing my thermostat (had to run it to bleed it and my neighbours hate it) Found the issue with the cooling, changed the thermostat housing, thermostat, bled the system etc. Heater pumps hot again (was warm before at best) gauges read right and the data logging shows the right reading. I'll do a quick DIY for the thermostat change because I found a good way to locate it without causing the problem I had again. I'll explain below anyway. The issue I was having that the thermostat didn't locate in the block properly. This was caused because when I tried to locate the thermostat originally I couldn't line the bolts up without bumping it (sealant grabs it and moves it etc) around causing the thermostat to lose its seating in the block. To get around this I got two long bolts with the same thread pitch and cut the heads off them, screwed them into the block and placed the thermostat housing over that meaning it was straight and I couldn't possibly bump the thermostat out of the block again. Put one bolt in, torqued it down then removed one stud and repeated. More goodies coming - I'm broke until pay day now but atleast my car loves me.

Funnily enough I was thinking of doing this also - Will do Thanks!

Ordered some more stuff from GKTECH They now sell the solid shifter bushing for R33 GTST's which they stopped selling years ago. Bought that and the shifter springs again that I bought a while back. I completely forgot to remove the two rounded bolts last time I had the gearbox off - This time I'll lower the box which I didn't think of doing last time and get one of those rounded bolt sockets on it or a good pair of vice grips. Not sure why it was so tight last time though Stay tuned - I have some work this weekend on the car planned

soon.jpg Find someone to make me that lip and I'll order it from you Nice to catchup with you tonight