kingtube69

Bit of an update on this - On the warmer days it gets close to 80 degrees but on cold days and nights it sits around 60. Plugged the laptop into the ECU today and it was reading out 72 degrees but the gauges were saying it was cooler than that (the aftermarket and stock). Is the temp difference to be expected on cold/hot days? I'll get a new thermostat this week but I'm a bit annoyed if it's a dud because it's still new. I'll also test the old one anyway. Jiggle pin is definitely at the top as per FSM (read it prior to changing it out) Is it worth getting a new thermostat housing while I'm there as I've been seeing people talking about how fragile they are? Thanks for your help all!

Scratch that, I'm out. Greek Easter is on the 1st sorry guys.

I also have some in Sydney PM me if you're interested. Only came off to upgrade

WTS Kakimoto exhaust from an R33 GTST Located in Rooty Hill (NSW) can deliver free if you're local or at extra for long distances Price: $250 non negotiable This was on an R33 GTST and wasn't over the top loud but still sounded great. No holes, minimal scratches etc. PM me on here if you're interested

I'm possibly being a little over dramatic about this all maybe too cautious. I took it down the road, cracked the bleeder and no air came out only coolant which I guess is a positive. Heater is still very hot (in the past if it had pockets it was cold and not hot). The top and bottom hoses eventually were hot but not so hot that I would burn my hands by holding them. Temp gauge also read 60 after a short drive home (1 minute max). Is this still something I should be worried about? If it matters I also have a nismo radiator cap.

Its odd that both would read low (stock and aftermarket) I'll check the earth just in case http://www.gktech.com/index.php/r33-silicone-radiator-hose-with-water-temp-fitting.html This is what I'm using - The temps were always fine on the gauge till I went bigger radiator from what I remember I normally do this with the neck and tape to seal it, never tried jacking it up though I'll give this a try tonight (take it to the servo near my house) I'll let you know how it goes when I try it The temp sensor is in the top hose (http://www.gktech.com/index.php/r33-silicone-radiator-hose-with-water-temp-fitting.html) last time I checked the hose it was a progressive warm up. I also don't recall the lower hose getting very hot but I'll double check

I'll run it today and check what the temps are like on the hoses - What am I looking for when checking the hoses exactly? I'll grab a new one from Kudos in the coming days - I let it run for ages and ages and ages to bleed it so I thought I got it all out but maybe you're right. Is there some special technique to getting it all bled properly? I have just been filling a cut bottle past the engine (sealed in the filler neck) and letting it run that way - Tried cracking the bleed valve and it didn't seem very effective. I have a hard time doing it at my house unfortunately so I normally have to go to a park or petrol station because my neighbours complain that it's too loud Didn't keep it unfortunately

Hi All, I installed a bigger radiator a few weeks ago in my R33 GTST because it was getting warm on the wet pan and I intend on going on a few track days. At the same time I put in a new genuine thermostat just as a precaution. Since this has been done the car doesn't get anywhere near operating temperature (roughly 80 degrees) i.e. sits at 45-55 most of the time and gets to 70 on hot days. I just wanted confirmation that this is safe/normal/OK? I spent some time looking for similar threads where someone upgraded the radiator and had low temps but didn't turn up anything helpful. Thanks! Edit: Forgot to mention that I'm getting these numbers off an aftermarket gauge using the GKTECH upper radiator adapter thingo. Factory gauge sits at 1/4 - 1/3 when I see 45-55 on the aftermarket gauge

Hi Duncan, He has insurance but the excess is way more than it would be to do it privately and the insurance company also told him his premium will go up 400 per year which is stupid for one claim his entire life of being insured. We ended up pulling the rad support out with a ratchet strap and tree and all lines up again. The headlight mount area was pushed back less than an inch which wasn't too bad imo. Thanks for the reply!

I'd really like to get the body and coilovers sorted out first before I go E85 and FFP I'm on holidays now also so I'm going to see some people about getting a FMIC engineered, maybe stop in at JEM and see what they say about it. I have taken the car out a few times recently and I'm loving it. It's much faster than I remember - highway pulls to 110 going towards Penrith is always great. Stay tuned for some updates while I'm on holidays.

Plazmaman have some sort of graphs on their website but I think they are pretty old. I would also be interested in a comparison if anyone has it.

Fixed it for you

Mike, I found this for you http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408500-will-i-need-an-aftermarket-fuel-pressure-regulator/ Most cases, the stock reg will be fine unless you run an aftermarket rail but with new developments Scott Fisher (Scotty's customs) has developed an adapter so you can get the stock reg on an aftermarket rail. http://scottyscustoms.com.au/product/rb25-stock-fuel-regulator-adaptor/ I'm not sure if it will suit RB20 though I myself ended up going Nismo reg because I thought the stock reg was shitting itself (turns out it wasn't). Tuner said stock reg would have probably been fine too. Hope this helps

What this bloke said - piggy back the spanners. I struggled when I did my clutch - Piggy backed the spanners and had my brother and I both putting force on them which eventually broke them free.

Hi All, Hoping this is in the correct section but I wanted some advice regarding the upper radiator support of an R33. Back story - A good friend of mine was driving his 33 home from Wisemans ferry one night when a big Kangaroo jumped out at the car at 80 KMH. This broke a headlight, smashed the bonnet in, broke the radiator and unfortunately kinked the upper support. I'll grab some pictures in the morning but IMO it doesn't look that bad. I think the options we have are to cut and weld another upper support in or try and pull the kink out instead. Has anyone had a kinked/busted upper radiator support before? If so what did you do? Please don't flame me, I genuinely have NFI about this stuff. Cheers

Guess who's back, back again... Skyline's back... tell a friend....... I got a bit extra done while it was there as mentioned, starter got changed, power steering flush, some other small things. The mechanic that worked on the car explained what happened - When I installed everything I didn't lube it all up enough (mmmm moist ) so it went dry and metal to metal happened causing it to seize up apparently. All is well now, even had them helicoil the threaded captive nut for the x member which was like that before I even got the car meaning no more annoying rattle under load.

Forgot to add - My new plates are in the picture above. Got them for Christmas from the fam. Spoke to the mechanic today, Starter motor is getting changed as the current one is noisy as suspected. I'm hoping I can go pick it up tomorrow or Wednesday. As mentioned, I have a decent size list of stuff to get done but it should be all better by the time it gets back. It feels like the night before Christmas for me now. Stay tuned, next update will be in when I get it back and can finally drive it again.

Im in the process of swapping my GA16DE from my SSS N15 into my R33 because the RB25DET is too laggy.

I'll be there in my 33, Thanks for the invite future hubby - I can't wait to marry you <3

Car went into the workshop today and I have some obligatory photos to share. I took a bunch while it was at the shop but I won't upload them because it show's where it's at (will post after I get it back). Tow truck was a bit late but we made it before the workshop closes. I gave them a big list of stuff to do including Check starter motor as it sounded noisy as hell (i.e overrun on startup) Check PS system as its also super noisy (was leaking though) Change throwout bearing and assembly Change clutch fork Check whole clutch assembly including bolts for flywheel Change slave and adjust Change tailshaft bearing Most of the parts I provided and they were fine with that (most shops hate that stuff) but it's all genuine Nissan gear. I asked if the shop was OK with that and they said they have no problem (it's a mates dad's workshop). I even offered them my contact details for parts and they said it's fine for me to order them. Tow truck driver was super nice and careful with the car. He even freaked out when the bumper JUST touched the tray, I said don't worry about it. Also plastidipped the centre garnish on my pulsar and the badges because I could.

photo taken with my potato Parts arrived, I'll call up this week and book the car in for next week. It's been a month now and I'm having withdrawal symptoms from boost

Turn the nozzle 90 Degrees as mentioned above. Works fine for mine

I have 740 Nismo's, Nismo FPR and a Walbro pump and I made 289KW with room too spare

I used a funnel and just poured it in through the shifter hole. No mess because I went OCD with towels everywhere - Was much faster than using the filler hole. Be careful using a 1/2" ratchet, I've seen a plug get stripped out because of it. You can get a cheap sump plug socket kit from SuperCheap which has a proper bit for it.

I will happily pay the tolls IF and only IF traffic is not bumper to bumper. I'm not convinced that expanding the lanes will fix the issue - We are probably at the stage with population/drivers where even 4 lanes is inadequate but then again those who don't want to pay tolls wont use it so its a possibility that the M4 will clear up. I will be using Vic road if the M4 is still congested when they are done