kingtube69

Long time no update - Plans sort of went downhill because I'm going on holiday next year so all of my money needs to go to that. In the interim I have done a few small cheap mods or maintenance items. It looks like my fuel pressure gauge may be stuffed - It's reading lower than it should or not at all. I know it's not a fuel issue because the car runs fine - Ordered new gauge which should be here this week. Sporadic idling is getting worse so I ordered some gaskets to replace the TB and IACV ones while I'm in there cleaning them. The big news is that I worked with GCG to get a clevis made up to suit the turbosmart actuator I had sitting here and the Hypergear ATR45SAT turbo I have. Boost control is significantly improved now. I put the actuator in, turned the duty down a bit and instantly hit boost cut in second gear (whoops!). I ended up having a friend drive it while I setup the controller and am happy to report the boost controller is set to half of what it was before and happily makes full boost in every gear but first (almost full boost)

I saw the matt 33 also - Series 1 with MSpec front bar right?

Hmm, do you remember the plates and was it at night? I spotted a Grey 32 up there the other night too - Was parked next to an evo

I had the same drama, not reaching full boost in lower gears. Thought it was an issue till I started looking into it. Same deal, not enough load in lower gears.

Fitted the lip Borked battery terminal I've decided to hold off getting the paint done for now - I'll keep saving and get it done properly (not that it wasn't going to be done proper, just cheap I guess) List of stuff I have either ordered or will order in the coming days: Subframe bushes Diff Bushes 1 (rear) Diff bushes 2 (front) Subframe - Will rebuild this one while the other one stays in the car so I can drive it Rear camber kit Front camber kit Hicas Elimination Pilot Sport 3s for the current wheels or new rims Thats about it for now though - Slowly ordering and collecting parts to get the handling up to par to match the coilovers

Yep, just needs to be disassembled and the contacts glued back in place. I would recommend Araldite for longevity

IIRC the bonnets are different so I would hazard a guess and say no the grills aren't the same.

Car as to be on for it to work yes (reds at very least) - Definitely fold in/out mirrors. If they don't work look up the guide in the DIY section to repair them. I have used the guide twice now both times with great success.

Can definitely see the benefit to the community in that case

How does this benefit anyone if you're not willing to share any information? What's the point in even posting about it then?

Hit up Ricky at Skyline auto works. A mate bought one off him recently.

It is genuinely an awesome battery, copped so much abuse through the years that I've owned it. Looks like acid started slowly leaking around the terminal, I went to remove the battery yesterday and the whole terminal bent in the case. Would definitely recommend but back on topic lets see how the century goes

Looks good, what steps were taken to get them to fit? What adapters etc? Cheers

I bought a century battery because my 7 year old optima shit the bed finally (physical issue) I'm a bit worried after reading this.............................. Didn't go optima again because where the hell would I source one late on a Sunday before a public holiday

Had to get a new battery today, the old one is absolutely rooted despite being a yellow top. I've had it in all of my cars over about 7 years. Swapped with a UHD one from Supershit as that's all I had access to and it was genuinely well priced. I also bought a new amp today and rearranged my boot to tidy things up. No pics for now but paint is coming in a few days

How much for the shifter and were are you located. If you're in Sydney I'll grab it.

GKtech sell two one which is big one which is small. One is for GTR one for GTST. I have one here at home, I went to put it in but wasn't happy with it so I removed it. If you're in Sydney I'll give it to you for free.

Are you doing boost control through the ECU?

S2

Think it's all sorted, the gauge is no longer being erratic - I noticed last night when I turn the lights off the gauge would drop 10+ degrees -_- Changed all sensors, bled the cooling system and redid some of the wiring again. Thanks for the input Johnny and Josh

All good bro, thanks anyway - I'm going to bleed the system anyway this arvo before I leave work haha. Thanks

The sensor itself is on the underside of the hose so it seems pretty well submerged in the coolant probably halfway in the hose. I'll check if I have a pic on my build thread

Aftermarket temp gauge issues potentially? Hi All, I've noticed some issues with my R33 GTST as of late. I was driving up the blue mountains the other day and noticed my temp slowly rising on my aftermarket temperature gauge but the dash gauge stayed in its normal position. A few days later I was driving uphill and noticed the same issue again, temp was rising slowly to 90+ (which it never normally does). I had a passenger get my laptop out and check the temperature that was showing on my Haltech and it was sitting between 79 - 82 degrees despite the aftermarket gauge rising. It's worth mentioning that when I stop (at a set of lights etc) the temp goes back to somewhat normal. I'm really not sure what is causing this but as a just-in-case I ordered three new sensors, ECU temp, Dash temp and aftermarket temp. Has anyone else had this happen to them before? The only two logical things I could think of were there is an airlock that is only affecting the aftermarket gauge based on its position or that the aftermarket gauge sensor is borked. This is the hose I have the sensor in for my aftermarket gauge http://www.gktech.com/index.php/r33-silicone-radiator-hose-with-water-temp-fitting.html Any help would be appreciated

This is awesome! If I had a R34 I would be definitely on to this

Thanks Josh!