kingtube69

Cheers mate, do you know of any feedback from anyone with the same lip?

Nismo style - Been looking for it for ages now. http://justjap.com/nismo-style-front-lip-nissan-skyline-ecr33-series-2-only.html

Hahaha yeah after years of Ev's abuse I got a genuine wing. Goes in for paint very soon but first I need to order a lip from your work so expect to see me this Saturday

Changed the fog lights tonight

Finally started getting new bits ready for paint - only the wing needs painting. The rest will stay as it is for now but I'll also get the bonnet painted at the same time. I've been looking for S2 Sedan foggies for a long time and have been struggling to find a genuine wing at a reasonable price too. The bloke put these up for sale tonight and within 2 hours I was driving to "the Gong" to get them. I drove my 33 down and it was a struggle to get it in the car resulting in us driving for two hours with the windows down haha I won't be able to get some time off work for a few weeks so I had to wrap up the corners of the wing and then wrap the carbon fibre wing blade too.

PM Sent regarding fog lights. Will pick up asap

Just replied to your inbox about the turbo Dan - --------------------------------------------- Update-ish I have been driving the car and enjoying it lately - With that being said, I went to the wet pan at Eastern Creek and had some LEGAL fun last weekend. Car feels night and day different with the new coilovers. Gave the car a full service this weekend (it doesn't get driven much at all) including the diff fluids. The fluid that came out was absolutely cooked, smelt superbad and was very dark in colour. Since doing this I also noticed that the diff no longer clunks and carries on which is awesome! Anywho - Videos! They are a bit dark unfortunately

Thanks guys!

Looks awesome! Do you drive this daily?

I couldn't wait until the weekend so I changed the suspension as soon as I got home from work. Simple task but I spent a lot of time making it right, double checking, torquing to spec etc. New coils being unboxed - I contemplated getting them with the "Stealth" option but they look way too nice to do that to them. Old cruddy coils, rusted, knocking, the helper spring collapses under weight Shiny! Initial thoughts are that at the recommended damper settings they are about as maybe less stiff than the old coils. They feel great through the corners, I can feel an increase in grip and most importantly, no knocking! Went for a little run to Springwood and Mitchell's Pass when I completed the install. I'll book an alignment next week and get some other parts installed too at the same time. My hicas joints are well and truly busted now and need to be replaced - I'm still considering the elimination kit also

Good to hear! My X-R arrived today so this is comforting to hear.

Update - Been holding off on telling anyone about this until they arrived. Ordered these last week MCA X-R series with springs to suit my needs - I also got the adjustable extenders for the rear parcel shelf . Will be spending this evening installing them then will go for an alignment next weekend.

No idea? ---------------- Update - Installed gas bonnet struts tonight. Cheap and easy! Car looks a bit grubby because of the crap Sydney weather as of late. Will post another update on Friday when some more parts arrive

Spotted 33 HMAS on Quakers Hill Parkway and Spotted two Silver 33s in the RNP today around 2:30 (didn't catch the plates though)

Also joined a few weeks back as a supporter - I originally intended on becoming a supporting member so I could edit my own titles (I wrote a couple of them wrong now lol) but I can't find this option Anyone able to help?

Cheers AD, most issues with Nissan electrical are dry solder joints but I think the root cause was the contacts on the large cog.

I'm just going to chuck this out there because it hasn't really been mentioned - Trent, you're a top bloke for helping out with the map above. That is really awesome of you. I don't know many tuners who would help out like you did. Keep up the good work!

Thanks Prank! Cheers JMKnights - Nice sig pic

Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again

Exact problem I had with mine when I took it out. Thanks for the tip!

Another great ad done by the Kiwi's - It really makes you stop and think

It's not too bad - See below (could also use a pair of vise grips) This would certainly work but you could melt it off because it's only plastic Try not to destroy it (although saw and fire will) just in case you have problems with the brass bush or don't like the feel.

Yep - Good quality stuff, better than some of the other eBay junk I've bought. Thanks Johnny! It gets washed meticulously, the paint bothers me on the bonnet but it will get fixed after I get new suspension. Hose is as fine, as long as you wash all the salty sea water off them Wow that was a long time ago!

Ahhhh - yep they are very harsh but these are the old ones, not sure if they are the same. I have the receipts for them at home too from the old old owner and they weren't cheap either. Mine are the old ones, so they may be the Monroe ones. Either way, horrible suspension.

Thanks Michael! I have my eyes on some new wheels so I might not need to fix the gutter rash BTW Link foe the bushing - It will change soon because I fat fingered the title http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465322-diy-how-to-change-r33-s-hifter-bush/