R_34

Good point about the engine stabilty running in cold temps. I should have thought in that before posting. So RB runs in between 80 and 85°C or so. Thanks for the info. The thermostat is brand new and it's a nissan one. Only have 2000 km or so on it, the engine warm pretty quick and the water temperature seems stable no matter what I throw at the engine. When decelerating the temperature doesn't seem to drop as it should when the thermostat is stuck open. I have a 32mm copper core radiator and the clutch fan in the S13. It could explain things a little. I had some problems with thermostats with my old CA, 2 stuck open and one which had difficulty to open leading to some overheating under sudden and long acceleration. And all of them showed signs of the problem. Actually the only sign I see is the air blowing from the ventilation being not as warm as i think it should. So to me it doesn"t quite look like an open thermostat. I will try to measure water temp in running conditon to be sure. I just need a place to install a probe.

It's odd that when you removed the MBC you got more boost. Are you sure that there was no leaks between the actuator and the pressure source when you removed it ? Can you take pics of the actuator ? Where the pressure is taken to feed the actuator ? +1 with blackkers. If you don't find a way to remove boost, retarding CAS will do the job. But performance and fuel economy will suffer, and you'll have to set the CAS again before getting any tune.

I didn't felt my RB20 being sluggish during warm-up. But i always drive very softly with cold engines so maybe I couldn't feel this sluggishness. That's surprinsing Nissan decided to use the first map only beyond 30°C, on a stone cold start, in regard to emissions I would have warmed the cat as fast as possible and killed ingnition from the start wathever the temperature. The last two maps are more logical, but 85°C seems a little high to maintain cat warming. What's the normal running temperature of an RB ? I know the thermostat open at 76.5°C but i don't avec any probe that's tells me the temperature of the engine. Only the one on the dashboard which tells very inacurattely if the engine is cold or hot. No temperature numbers. And I don't have Nistune yet. I've already felt that in cold climate the air coming from the ventilation is colder when the engine is just cruising, meaning the thermostat struggle to maintain working temperature. Still I didn't felt the engine becoming sluggish. Does the map only kicks after a start, or each time the temperature drops below the temperature threshold of 85°C ?

Look at the flowmap on the matchbot BW provided. Yes it can flow 60lb/min but with 58% efficiency or even less. It's more 52/55 lb/min turbo I think. Still impressive for a 71mm compressor. I was interested in the 7064 which seemed a nice street oriented turbo for a normal breathing 2L motor. The 7163 looks much better but I still don't know what to think on the improvements from the mixed flow turbine. It looks good on paper, but so far that's the story of the EFR. So good on paper and so few on the streets.

The turbo outlet silicone hose will burn quickly if you let it like that. I've seen some setup on SR with a silicone hose close to the exhaust manifold like yours, and the hose never lasted long.

Thank you all. The 240SX has been sold in the USA with the KA24 in it, 140hp in single cam form, then 155hp in DOHC. The KA24 has never been sold in France and Europe to my knowledge. An engine specifically designed and built for the US market. "They're is no replacement for displacement". Not a funny engine at first glance, but turbo-ing it seems giving very good results. The import scene is not as much developped as in other part of the world. Much less than in our neighbor the UK. We have very few good spec and/or stunning looking imports. We are pretty mean and we look twice at the price and only once at the car before buying it. Skylines were not sold in France, so we need to buy them in the UK and makes them street legal in France afterwards. A lot of people takes back some skyline from UK, but only the rustiest ones, and mainly R33 GTS-T because of the prices we can get them. They're so f**ked up that they can't pass the test to get street legal. The good thing is they bring back a lot of parts that the silvia community can use : brakes, engines swaps, final drive ratio, wheels and so forth. The main import community is in love with Soichiro Honda. So we have a huge civic community (in comparison with Nissan or Toyota, or even smaller Mitsubishi or Mazda ), and some interesting cars to see. But again this is nothing compared to what we can see in other part of the world. France is not a big car fan country anymore. Diesel and CO2 are what drive the French peopel to which model they will buy. Passion has vanished in the mid 90's in favor of price and fuel comsuption. I think that chosing an RB for my silvia was the best move I ever did. But the swap is still fresh and not really finished yet. So it's a little soon to make any conclusion. The RB feels healthy, and happy to live, happier than the CA was. I loved my CA and wanted an engine a little more rev happy. The RB20 looks a lot more rev happy in fact. All I hope is solving the last issues I have, getting a tune to match the setup and having a lot of fun with it.

Yep. This is my fifth year of contribution today. A little more than 80 millions of points.

Hi everyone. I'm new here so I present myself. I'm Romain, 28 years as of now, and i live in France. I'm not a skyline owner, I juste own a mighty RB20 freshly installed in my 180SX, mysteriously called 200sx in France despite the CA18DET originally in it. I swapped the car this year, and this RB has first started in september 2013. The CA that was previously in the car has 2 cylinder down in compression (5 and 8 bars on cylinder 2 and 3). After weighing pros and cons between a complete rebuild and a swap I chose the RB swap. I work as an engine bench operator in a small engineering company. For those who know or are contributors to the folding@home project, I'm folding for 5 years now under the same user name : R_34 See you on SAU.

1 bar at the moment. And I plan to lower this to 0.8b with the new spring. I will not boost it over this figure for a while. I have things to do to finish the swap (blow by routing, and finding why the AAC valve is fully opened all the time). Anyway I don't feel much more torque beyond 0.8b, there is a gain obviously, but it doesn't justify the fuel the ECU throw at the engine tu run this boost.

You could buy a stiffer spring from kinugawa. The range goes up to 29 psi. http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/adjustablespring-2.aspx I bought a softer one to run only 12 psi as I still run on standard tune at the moment. I'll install it tomorrow. A lot cheaper than going EWG and it will get you to your power goal without to much hassles. With the standard spring the boost seems pretty solid, at least in fourth gear. It gets to 15 psi quickly enough and holds there until about 6000 rpm as I hit the speed limiter. I was a little scared to get some boost creep because a lot of IWG kando seems to have this problem, Apparently mine does not, at least not at this power/boost/max rpm level. I might get some with the 12 psi spring.

Fix your EBC or replace it, wind up the boost and re-tune it.

Nice power curve. The pressure tapering down to 18psi is certainly due to too much exhaust back pressure blowing the flapper open. Fixing your greddy EBC should place the power right where it should be at high rpm.

Do you use an electronic BC or a manual BC ? Does the turbo creep ? What's your setup ?

No dyno yet and no one planned. I just finished the car, i have a lot of things to do to make the engine bay neater, the PAS pump just died on me and I have to sort the AAC valve getting continuous 12v. I'll be running the max boost I can with the stock MAF/injectors when I'll get a tune. Unfortunately it won't happen before several months. I did some slight pull yesterday, the turbo pulls very well, my cluster isn't working (an other thing to sort), so I can't give you any rpm to boost numbers, the speedo is climbing a little to fast to do the math and know at wich rpm the engine is. I don't know if the turbo is creeping or if kando rate their actuator a little low but I hit 17 psi. The spring is rated 15 psi, and I have the least preload I can have on it. I'll get a softer spring ASAP and let you know how things goes. I had an CA18 with a GT2560R and a tune in that car before. The RB is a little less responsive down low, but a lot more anywhere more than say 3500 rpm or so.

I currently have one on my freshly swapped RB20DET S13. I don't know how a td06-20g spool on a rb20, but this one comes on boost in the low 2000 rpm and hit 0.5b before 3000rpm. This is with FFP, standard cast exhaust manifold, ceramic coated turbine housing and complete 3" exhaust system, stock ECU, stock tune and stock injectors. I don't know much more right now.