R_34

I have the same concern about feeding the compressor correctly, especially on the 660. That's big power for such a small turbine. I'm stoked by the claimed flow on .92 a/r, those things flows like hell compared to a gt28 turbine. I'm waiting some dyno/video of them in action to see if the claims are realistics or not.

A new line of turbo. They unveiled the flow and turbine map for these and they seems bloody good. Very high compressor efficiency on a very broad range of flow and pressure and new turbine wheel apparently. It seems to be based off the gt28 wheel because the diameter are really close but this new turbine flows a shit ton more. All in all they seems extremely potent turbo for their inertia. Avalaible in 3 A/R in vband form and 1 in t25. Twin guy should look into these.

I'd suspect the gate or it's plumbing, wether not moving fast enough or freely enough in it's guide and/or some plumbing/diaphragm leak. The fact it is able to bypass enough gas to maintain a solid 12psi from down low means that it is big enough, not that it is functionning proprerly when it needs to move "fast". I'm no expert in tuning but that map seems unnecesarily conservative especially on E85. My 20 is running 15° more degrees around the 14 psi range... on P98 and an other 5 to 7* on E85. I know that not apples to apples with my stock 20 internally gated vs your built 28 external gate but still. Control your gate or swap it with an other known good one plumbed directly to the compressors housing and see if it change anything. If not then put some timing in.

Not in 1.05 rear, the .92 is twin scroll internal and the 1.05 is twin scroll external.

Someone I know is running a .92 7670 on his RB30 and is complaining about not spooling it soon enough but it never mentionned any overboosting or spikes when it reaches full boost (mid to late 3k). What are the unit on your X axis on your timing map ?

Which flange you got on the 6 boost manifold ? T3 single scroll ?

2860 or 63 ?

Please let's try to not close this thread...again.

Tons of goodness in here.

EJ20 or 25 ?

Is it me or something wrong with the grey boost line ? You can't have more pressure after intercooler than before to me. I don't want to be insulting or anything but you're sure that you picked up boost from the comp housing and not the intake manifold ? Stock butterfly on blacktop SR is quite small (around 40mm from memory) so having the pressure picked up after it and having a solid boost taper like you do would makes more sense as the butterfly will be a restriction at that power level. What rpm gauge are you using with the rpm sensor ? 112k rpm at 28psi is also strange, the 7163 shouldn't be able to make that much boost below 120k rpm. I think something's wrong with the gauge, maybe the number of pales. The 6758 and 7163 both only have 12 pales compressor wheels, all other EFR have 14 pales compressor wheels. If the gauge is wrongly configured then the real compressor speed is around 131k which is more where it should be at your boost level (the 28 psi run). How did you hooked up the twin port actuator in twin port configuration with your 3 port boost solenoid ? I find strange that it didn't made any difference. It would means that this is not the exhaust back pressure the culprit. Are your actuator correctly placed ? The actuator rod should really pull the straightest possible, ideally without the locking nuts you should be able to install and remove the swing valve assembly with just a finger without the rod having to move at all. Is the swing valve moving freely ? No play ? For the leak testing I install a plug with a tire valve at the silicone adapter going at the outlet comp housing. I have acces to an air pressure regulator hookable to a compressor so I use that but you could be fine with a tire pressure inflator if you're cautious with it. Make the plus on the comp housing with a good lip so it does not blow away under pressure. Those things tends to fly all over the place and may cause some damage/hurt somenone. As GTSBoy said hook up a pressure gauge on the exhaust side to see what the exhaust pressure is first. We'll see from there. Try to measure both scrolls to see if there is a difference wetween them, not that it is relevant to your problem but it's still interesting to see if bw did the scrolls A/R right.

I installed an "air straightener" before the AFM last week. The engine reacts much better/quicker when I blip the throttle but it didn't solved the reverb problem. Reducing the intake pipe from 80mm to 63m with a reducer right at the exit of the AFM solved the problem. No more stalling if I let off the engine from 4000+rpm to idle. Still the crispness of the engine gained with the piece of honeycomb makes it worthwhile.

What is the boost target ? If lower than 25psi on a 3.4L go 9180 1.05 a/r. If higher than that go 9174 1.45 as the compressor will spin close to the max rpm the 80mm turbine can take.

Plenty of guys (well less and less in fact) here in France runs the CA18 with a gt2560r and the max reliable boost is about 18psi, anything beyond that and the turbo is just breathing hot air up top. Bloody good turbo for smallish/slowish track but it runs out of puff quickly. I agree that you'll not see 300whp with this turbo unless in kill mode, 280whp is more what it can make. Cheap way for the cam is installing an exhaust cam at the intake to get a bit more lift or a CA16DE intake cam to get a bit more lift and duration. But to be honest don't bother, there is more to be gained with other breathing mode and a smart turbo choice than slapping cams on it. A mate is using a GT3071 (not sure is it's the cropped 56.5 turbine or the 60mm one) internally gated on his stockish CA. The only upgraded internal parts are metal headgasket and ARP rod bolts. He was running 24 psi (E85) for years (mainly on track) and the oil pump let go last year.

I found this pdf a while ago to help tune your chassis settings given how you feel the car and how it move around the track. Its best if you can have a mate taking pictures of the car on the track to see how it is planted on its wheels. I tried bigger front sway bar et reverted back to factory one, a bigger one will just induce understeer. suspensiontuningguidelines.pdf

T25, it's for a silvia CA or SR, not a RB. It will not fit the manifold or the downpipe.

It bolts straight up for the 7064 and the 7670 as they are the same size. A drifter here in France has done it with a 7064, just a custom downpipe, water and oil lines some fiddling on the intake and off you go. For the 8374 I'm not so sure.

Not needed if you just want the sound when cruising/revving. It will sound mental/too loud when paired with a titanium exhaust. Stock rb25, sinco custom exhaust manifold bolted to a gt3540 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqjCRe75Z3U If you want a lumpy idle this is a different story.

Big single with an equal length manifold like 6boost or sinco custom.

Treadstone and turbozentrum are also selling EFR housings.

Find an used hks 2535 on yahoo, and be done with it. Holset spools relatively quick for their size. The "for their size" part is important because most of them are for 600+ hp which is not "fast spooling" on a RB25.

They're saying that the turbo is creeping like hell and they managed to control it via their IPC (and a very soft spring I suppose) instead of porting the shit out of the wastegate. So yes I think there is room for improvement, beginning by the wastegate porting.

It means solid lifters opposed to lash type (hydraulics lifters).

Si ça le fait aussi sous les 2000 c'est plus génant, le MAF ou son faisceau ne serait pas en cause du coup. Je sèche un peu, mis à part un problème de 12v qui se coupe genre le relais d'alim de l'ECU qui coupe l'ECU, le faisceau qui va au CAS abimé... Un pote à eu un truc dans le genre dans sa sunny swappée CA18DET mais c'était le connecteur du faisceau qui va sur l'ECU qui était pas assez serré, la caisse coupait de temps en temps totalement, tu filait un coup de latte au niveau de l'ECU et ça repartait, des fois avec un retour de flammes de la mort mais ça repartait. Toi ça coupe et ça reviens comme si de rien était j'ai l'impression. Commence par vérifier les cables/la prise au niveau du CAS. Tu as David qui possède DGmotorsport dans ton coin, ou Jérôme qui y bossait avant et qui est à WG british racing maintenant qui pourrait jeter un oeil.

Les coupures apparaissent aussi quand tu reste sous les 2000 rpm ? C'est bien des coupures franches et pas des ratés d'allumage ? Ca arrive que quand tu charge ou même en roulant a vitesse stabilisée ? J'ai eu un problème de prise de soudure des fils de MAF sur la mienne après avoir installé le maf de Z32. Exactement comme toi, OK à froid et dès que ça chauffait un peu ça coupait/revenait. Si je restait sous les 2000 aucune coupure. Mais AFR à 10. Regarde ta prise de maf et si le faisceau n'est pas abimé. Le problème de la 1ère bobine qui crame 2 fois coup sur coup par contre j'ai jamais eu. Après t'as ramplacé une vieille bobines par une autre vieille bobine. Peut-être une simple coincidence que la seconde crame comme la première. Tu as quoi comme bougies actuellement, gappées à combien, et combien elles ont de bornes. La caisse est stock et en bon état ou elle à été bricolée de partout ? Particulièrement le faisceau, il est dans quel état ? Pas d'alarme de posée ou un truc dans le genre ? Turbo timer ? T'es d'ou exactement ? Better translation : Hi all, I need help to sort a problem on my RB20DET. The engine is pretty much stock : no cat, aftermarket catback and HKS air filter. The engine is cutting out randomly while driving. It happens more and more frequently especially when the engine is hot. It can drive fine when cold but after 10km or so the cutting begins. If i drive smoothly and at low load I can reach 110 km/h for about 15 km before the problem appears. Things that has already been done : An other CAS has been tried but no change. The coilpack on cyl n°1 died last week. I replaced it with an other used one and it died again today. I can't have access to the ECU, the left door is shut closed so I can't remove the panel that protect the ECU. / Better translation. I asked if it was really the engine cutting or if it was some misfires, it's description lead toward really to engine cutting rather than misfires. I also asked which sparks plugs it has, the gap, how many km they have, if it has an alarm or a turbo timer that could have been badly wired, the shape of the engine wiring. I also told him to check the MAF plug and wire to sse if there is no damage that could explain the cuts when running above 2000rpm.