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R_34

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Everything posted by R_34

  1. R_34
    I bought and received this one yesterday : http://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-Divided-Countersunk-to-T4-Divided-Inlet-Turbo-Adapter-S300-HX30-HX35-HX40-5-9-/131961409970 My plan is also to be able to fit a B1 frame T4 EFR on the stock manifold. I'm still unsure which one, 7163 or 6758 but I want to keep stock manifold and its heatshield and why not welding a support on the downpipe to keep the OEM turbo heatshield also. I'm not close to buy a turbo, I'll just try to fit this adapter to the manifold and see how it goes and if it's doable or if I need to buy an aftermarket manifold/weld a T3 adapter on EFR housing/go EFR 7064 in T3 pattern and call it a day. Why you thinks it's not a good idea s2d4 ?
  2. R_34
    Right, bigger turbo and getting full boost in 1st gear doesn't come along because of inertia of the CHRA and available energy on the turbine wheel. I wouldn't be too worried about getting full boost in 1st gear but more by your creeping issue. What size your gate is ? Which manifold do you use ?
  3. R_34
    A bit laggy on rb20 from what i've read but I haven't seen or driven one so I can't confirm. So up the boost if it hasn't already with the exhaust and get a good tune and that will be it.
  4. R_34
    Like on every other turbo engine : exhaust, FMIC, more boost, a tune maybe a better turbo.
  5. R_34
    Buy proper pads and discs, I owned EBC stuff too but for an S13 and OEM pads are way better than EBC shit. Rotors doesn't seem to be any better, they are way too hard so they just heat up and warp instead of slowing down the car.
  6. R_34
    I would have pointed the TPS but you checked it already. Isn't the tps for auto different than the manual one ? I think it should have an idle and WOT contact on the TPS as well. Otherwise dirty maf sensor maybe.
  7. R_34
    Got on on my 20. No torque until 3500 rpm at best, on the actuator without boost controller it get 0.9b/14psi a little under 4000rpm. Not a turbo i qualify as street fun but it gets the job done on track. No boost creep/taper. Only the compressor cover is coming from Nissan I think, the rest is kinugawa. The compressor is a MHI 20g (same as a td06-20g) and the turbine is a garrett stage 3 (like a GTW3476). The turbine housing I couldn't say its size but it's pretty big and offer a late/slow spooling turbo.
  8. R_34
    CAS bearing maybe. Unplug you CAS and rotate it by hand, if it doesn't rotate freely then it's the culprit. Definitely not rods bearing though.
  9. R_34
    You'll have shitty fuel consumption, high idle and get some oil dilution but it'll work.
  10. R_34
    OEM one for sure. I don't remember which brand I installed on mine, it works for now but is not an OEM unit.
  11. R_34
    Being an Iron block, the coolant need to be changed more regularly to avoid rust of the coolant galleries in the block. The rust particles that get in the coolant tends to block the thermostat. Your symptoms (car not heating stationary and barely heating when driven) leads to a thermostat stuck open or partially open that allow too much coolant to be cooled in the radiator. When the car overheated on the freeway the symptoms leads to a stuck closed or partially open thermostat allowing too little coolant going in the radiator. And you say that you changed the thermostat before the overheating so I repeat : your thermostat doesn't seems to work correctly. Was it an oem unit ?
  12. R_34
    Blocked thermostat most likely. It can't open and close as it should, time to replace it.
  13. R_34
    Then you have limited options. To be honest for street fun and your power goal the GTX2860 will be hard to beat I think.
  14. R_34
    Nope a rb25 housing will not fit the GTX28 turbine unless you machine it. And still I don't think the garrett CHRA could be bolted to the RB25 housing. And yes I was also tempted for a sonic performance unit for a time, as you mentioned it : ball bearing, billet, bolt-on. I couldn't buy it at that time and went kinugawa. And today all I want is an EFR as getting a bolt-on turbo is no longer mandatory. And EFR are far from bolt-on, not a huge amount of work for a 25 as the EFR 7064 .83 is already T3 flanged, you just need lines and a vband downpipe. But for the smaller and less breathing 20 it will be to big for street use. So you'll need to look toward the B1 frame which does not come T3 flanged but rather T25 or T4. If your really want a bolt-on solution : hypergear, sonic performance (you'll need lines and some silicone couplers though), kinugawa (silicone couplers needed).
  15. R_34
    Of course, but it needs some more fiddling to make it fit. Also to keep the rb20 reviness I think it would be good to take it in T4 TS 0.80 a/r. On most SR I could find on youtube the torque was falling off quickly beyond 6000 rpm or so. Opening up the exhaust is the solution i guess as the EFR turbine wheels are not as good flowing as the garrett ones.
  16. R_34
    You just need to source a HKS turbine housing from a 2530 or 2535 to make it bolt-on to your existing manifold and downpipe. Just new line and some silicone couplers to adpat it to your piping. And I agree, I also think it would be a very good match to a 20.
  17. R_34
    I have a 19 rows on a rb20 14psi/0.9b of boost and its just enough on track. I could duct it properly to gain some more cooling out of it but on a 30% bigger engine and much more power I don't think that will be a good idea even if ducted proprely. Better take the 25 one and make it fit, at least if the goal is to track it. On the street the 19 rows will suffice.
  18. R_34
    A guy in france put his r32 gtst bone stock on a dyno, here is the sheet : f**king small turbo an still max torque beyond 5000 rpm. Stock wise the gap might not be that big but who here is still stock anyway. I have a 20, a mate of mine have a 25 and the 25 is much nicer to drive despite having a taller diff ratio and bigger wheels. So yes the 20 is a bitch down low, at high rpm i prefer the feeling of my shitty 20 (mostly thanks to the 4.36 diff I have) but below 4000 this is a no brainer.
  19. R_34
    Probably an RB20 ECU that runs with the nistune and apparently most nistuned RB20 runs entirely on the knock map so the tuner copy the main fuel and ignition maps into the knock map and it runs normally. Mine is setup like that, it constantly runs on the knock map with or without the knock sensors plugged in, even with the 1M resistor shunt to ground to replace the knock sensor. The ECU doesn't throw any code but still runs only on the knock map. What is your ECU reference ?
  20. R_34
    Yep interested too.
  21. R_34
    Too much traction on the track and the engine bog down a little. Stuff more boost in it, problem solved. I think on the street you get the "just what it need" in terms of wheelspin to pull the car efficiently from the start line. With better traction on the track where tons on rubber lie on the ground you just "stall" the car. Plus it seems you lifted the throttle on track during first gear. Well just my opinion I'm no expert in drag racing.
  22. R_34
    It may be the CAS getting loose. A frein of mine had very high EGT and an engine very sensitive to timing. He was running very low advance because the engine couldn't take more. After some investigation the CAS shaft was loose causing timing spikes leading to knock hence the low timing needed to avoid knock. He changed the CAS, added tons of advance and the EGT problem was gone.
  23. R_34
    I don't know if it's like an S13 (but it shouldn't be too different), but there is a potentiometer at the rear of the tacho that you can trim to increase or decrease the rpm reading. I played with it to get an accurate reading on my S13 tacho with an rb swap.
  24. R_34
    I measured the restriction of the standard S13 airbox (which use the same air filter) and the restriction isn't that high at 200rwkw sitting at around 30 mbars at 8000rpm. I also tested an apexi panel filter in the standard airbox giving the exact same restriction (i was surprised by this result). I then tested an HKS 200mm mushroom. The air restriction went down to 14/15 mbars but I didn't noticed any power improvement, just more noise and the lovely stututu. Both apexi panel filter and hks pod are now taking dust at home.
  25. R_34
    Matchbot can't simulate the exhaust manifold backpressure effect on the advance you can throw at the engine. The engine equipped with the 8374 will happily take more advance netting more horsepower per psi. So even when the compressor efficiency are close, the turbines of both turbos are'nt working similarly, the 8374 will not even peak at 2.5 PR turbine side @8500rpm while the 7670 will peak and stay at 3PR turbine side.
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