R_34

I definitaly wouldn't stroke the 20. Go 25 or just enjoy what the 20 will give you after some mods. Stroking it will cost a lot, get less power and response than a 25, still have a weaker gearbox etc... Definitely a no-no.

Street car, responsive and RB20 in the same phrase doesn't really get along. I'm far from 400hp on my 20 and the car is not user friendly on the streets nor responsive for daily driving. Getting a better turbo could help but it won't make miracles. On track though there is no problem of responsiveness, but still far from 400 hp. Good thing is, you can lend the keys to a person who never go above 4000 rpm without sweating. lol Smaller HP goal, lower responsiveness goal or bigger capacity engine for street use with a 20. HKS2530, GT2860RS, the smallest Hypergear hi-flow unit. You may try an EFR 6258 if you can get a T3 flange welded on the housing. All these turbo could be called responsive on a 20 for street use and will yield 220rwkw give or take. Any bigger than this and you will degrade the fun on the streets.

Any dyno sheet of that SR22 ? I need some data to finish convincing a mate with a SR to go EFR and he's thinking in going darton sleeves, 90mm bore if he ever needs to. It currently has a china 2871 which won't last long @26psi on his still 2L SR.

And now RB20 silvertop ECU can control the NVCS solenoid. The feature pack can also add the possibility of running a boost control solenoid valve. It might not be as accurate/efficient as a true boost controller or with a better/more modern ECU but it's still interesting.

I would look at upgrading the wire going from the alternator to the battery. I checked on my RB20, I have 14.1V at idle on the battery but got 15.3V on the alternator. I investigated a little more and I found that the wire coming from the alternator going to the power connector next to the battry to power all the car is responsible for the total loss in voltage. So try to check it on your car and upgrade it if you find that is voltage is much higher than the one you see on your battery. Much cheaper and more efficient than getting a more powerful alternator.

I'm looking for information on the RB20DET valve seats. Diameter and thickness of the seat and angle that nissan recommand. I've found the R32 FSM but after reading it several times I couldn't find any information on the RB20 valve seats. Only the RB26 and 25DE are presented. I searched on other FSM where the RB20 has been installed but I wasn't able to find the R31 GTS-R laurel or cefiro ones. Is there any other cars with an rb20det in it ? So if someone knows where I could find the FSM or directly the information I'm searching, that would be nice. Thanks.

No, different turbine size. The GT35 is a 68mm inducer turbine from memory, while th gt30 is a 60mm inducer turbine.

Well then it looks OK for me. Just take the most powerful pump from EWP and feed it with the highest tension you can. I hope it will flow enough to cope with your power goal. Because you don't have the thermostat you should install 2 water temp sender, on at the inlet of the engine and the other on the exit to check the temperature rise. Ideally it shouldn't be higher than 10°C when the engine is at temperature and the controller is regulating, to get a correct cooling of the entire block, not just overcool the front cylinder while the lasts ones are burning. If you have a delta too high, then the pump is not powerful enough. You'll need to install a second one or find another more powerful. I know that pierburg are making some powerful pump which are used in wrc and on the last bmw //M. But they need to be pwm feeded if I remember correctly. The EWP controller can't do that.

Will you use a davies craig pump ? We used at my work on an engine dyno to pump water through an oil cooler of a 2L diesel engine and a water to water heat exchanger. The pump was OK performance wise but it only lasted 400 hours before being replaced. It worked with only 50 to 70°C water temps and some fins broke or something as the pump was heavily vibrating. And on another engine 2 stroke single cylinder petrol engine, still on an engine dyno an other pump but same model pump (EWP115) has been tested as a primary water pump. The coolant circuit was kept relatively simple : engine, a coolant flow meter, a water heater and the water to water heat exchanger. The pump despite being fed with around 12.8v was not able to meet our coolant flow target. Well the engine had a pretty restrictive flow path inside it but the pump was really weak for that use. So my 2 cents is keep away of the EWP pump as a primary water pump for your engine. But the EWP pump controller is worth a watch. I'm in the process of fitting one to control a electric motor that will power the STD water pump. As you I might remove the thermostat. It will remove a big restriction in the coolant circuit, allowing more flow but a lot less delta P before and after the pump leading to a lot less cavitation at high rpm. As for your plate that replace the water pump beware that it might not let a lot of space for the water to go through between the plate and the block. The pump is making a canal with the block to allow the water to flow through. Your plate will make this path a lot narrower. I would look into fitting a emptied water pump if possible. Iin the thermostat housing I would also block the by pass where the thermostat is being placed. When the engine is cold a part of the coolant goes through this by pass to allow a evenly warm up of the block. As you will control the warm up of the engine without coolant flow when it's not needed, you do not need this by-pass anymore and when hot you will put more "fresh" wate through the engine leading to a greater cooling capacity. I will re-run the turbo water exit at the inlet side of the pump. It will lessen a bit the flow of cool water coming from the radiator but I prefer ensuring a good flow through the turbo. From factory it is plumbed exactly like that so I don't see as a real problem, just a small loss of efficiency. Given the gain that could be made with the rest of your setup if done correctly, I find this acceptable. Once you change the intake manifold the highest point of the coolant circuit is effectively the radiator. My 20 is setup like that and didn't needed any precaution to be bleeded correctly. Hope that helps.

+1 The datasheet of the B framed EFR showed clearly the turbine housing being taller than the compressor cover on the draft but seeing it fitted on the manifold is reassuring. I didn't expected it to be so close to the strut tower though. The STD heatshields seem compatible also. At least the manifold one. The one around the turbine housing may not fit, it need some trimming or fabricate a new one. The 7670 feels a little lazy, is it the high,medium or low pressure canister ? Which EBC is he using ? I wasn't able to find a nice T3 to vband adapter, only dodgily welded thingy which are too tall. Unless you could find/make one more compact you'll end up with similar if not less space between the housing and the strut tower with a 7163 with such an adapter. It leans me more toward the 7163 with a T3/T4 TS cummins adapter plate on the stock manifold for my 20. But it will need to have the manifold welded then decked to remove the notch in the middle of the flange. It will not be a true twin scroll setup per say as the 3 front cylinders will have an awful design but still better than with an open scroll housing I think.

There is a T4 TS housing with a 0.8 A/R. According to matchbot the hotside of the 7163 flows like the 7064 with T3 0.83 A/R housing. The T25 0.85 A/R housing flows like la 7064 T4 TS 0.92 A/R housing. The MFT turbine really seems to be kickass in single scroll, the TS housing seems to be pretty restrictive though.

I removed the sound dampening in my STD S13 airbox. I prefer the sound (more the absence of the turbo aspiration noise) with it rather than with my old aluminum with a pod. The only downside is almost no audible surge noise when i release the gas pedal.

Could be. I drove a mate S13 some weeks ago, it has been manual converted and made a noise that sounded like yours on an WOT acceleration in 2nd on the exit of a roundabout. It went away the second I pull the foot from the gas pedal. I didn't notice any vibration on the shifter but I didn't had the hand on it but it was definitely coming from the transmission/driveshaft area. I didn't found the source when I checked it back at the garage and my mates never had it even when it rapes it. Check the engine/gearbox mounts and the driveshaft bearing at first. I don't knwo the clearance between firewall and starter bulge on the bellhousing but check if there was any traces of contact between the two.

Looks like you got a 4.9 diff.

Hard to be 100% sure but it looks like the downpipe is an S14A one.

If I remember correctly Stao already stated that a RB20 have the same boost threshold than a non VCT SR20. ATR43 SS1 result @18psi : The result is available in this exact same topic, you just need to go to page 1 and search in the summary, or search on Stao website, or search on the RB20 dyno thread. Plenty of information everywhere. What do you call reasonable response ? For some full boost @5000 rpm is fine, others begin complaining when they have to wait for 2000rpm for the torque to come.

There will be no power loss, you just used more power to move the heavier reciprocating part at the same ramp speed on the dyno than with smaller counter parts. You do not lose power, you use it differently. More to move the driveline, less to the wheels BUT if you measure both driveline at a STEADY state you WILL measure the EXACT SAME power. You "wasted" some energy into kinetic energy because of the higher inertia of the heavier parts. It's the exact same thing than a lighter flywheel compared to a standard one. You do not gain any power but the engine drives very differently leading you to BELIEVE you gained power. You just removed inertia to overcome when accelerating. This is the exact opposite when decelerating, your heavier driveline will net you a much smaller deceleration ramp rate. This is where you're power has been spent rather than moving wheels. But you still have the same power. If the dyno reads effectively the deceleration ramp rate of your driveline after a pull it will take into account the higher inertia and it will not reads you a lower rwkw number.

You can get a Z32 ECU and have it modified to run a RB25 and install a Nistune board in it. This is still an OEM ECU so if you're controlled by cops or whatever it's still "OEM like".

The oil catch can doesn't catch the oil because it doesn't see any blow-by gases through it. The catch can shall be between the rocker cover and the breather/intake pipe. As is your catch can is totally useless.

I'm using valvoline synpower 5w30 which is a fully synthetic oil. After 5000 km i flushed it and made an UOA. The oil was pretty thinned out but wasn't worn out chemically speaking. I never went over the 120°C with it and was only street driven seeing 80~100°C most of the time. So I wouldn't go much over 5000km between flush with low viscosity index like 5w30. The next flush is due in about 200 km, I'll make an other UOA as I trashed this oil both on the street and on track and I stayed quite a lot of time north of 100°C. Nothing major but still worrying me a little as the previous oil was thinned out with softer driving. I'll go for an other turn with 5w30 index as winter is coming and maybe go for a thicker oil if the UOA calls it.

I had my first track day with my RB20 last friday. My catch can is fairly simple : there is only two line going from the two rocker cover to the empty catch can which is vented to atmosphere. Wrecker RB20 with stock internal, highflow turbo, 12psi/0.8b, 444cc injectors, Z32 AFM on standard S13 airbox with a cold feed, FMIC, FFP, STD RB26 oil pump RB25 filter support modded to accept a CA18 oil to water cooler and a 19 row oil cooler. Standard clutch fan and 2 row 32mm copper radiator. I run 5w30 valvoline synpower oil. The weather was ideal, it was a sunny day with 20~25°C. The catch can didn't spill any drop of oil, no overheating and I stopped trashing the engine when the oil passed 120°C. I could run for 15 min (~8/9 lap) or so before stopping because of oil temperature. I could run the engine 100% per cent during the session with plenty 8000 rpm shifting without dramas. My main problem was the power steering reservoir which was spilling fluid way to close to the turbo. Time to install a cooler on the power steering circuit.

Mine still has the 4 holes on the tip. No trace of grinding or anything. The 444cc are bosch licensed manufactured by FoMoCo, with the 3 lasts digit of the part number grinded.

I got the 444 from them. The flowchart that came with mine said they're matched around 458cc. Really noisy, the idle is a little more erratic than with the standard ones but nothing to worry about, AFR are stable on idle, cold start or hot start are as good as standard. No problem so far with 10 000 km on them on P98. The only downside is the noise, if I had a quieter exhaust the only thing I could hear would be them. Double check the latency, I chose the 444cc because of it, the 555cc latency is almost two times longer from memory, and I didn't really need much more on P98 anyway. On E85 I would buy the 650cc directly. They come with adapter plug so they're really drop in. Just excite them with a battery before installing them. I had to excite one directly from the battery to get it to open. Then it worked like a charm. I purchased mine directly from their site.

I'm no expert on R31 but check everything related to ignition. Spark plug, coilpacks, coilpack loom, PTU ground... Stalling during warm-up make me thinks it's PTU related. Aren't the R31 PTU known to fail ?

Again no before/after test. I had a CA18 with tubular manifold heat wrapped, a GT2560R with a blanket the viscous fan and the shroud before, and now the RB20 with oem exahust manifold, ceramic coated turbine housing, all the heatshield, the viscous fan is here but no shroud installed. The engine bay is cooler now than with the CA. I noticed that most of the heat is coming from the manifold rather than the turbine housing after the engine has been shut off. Interesting thing the electric assisted turbocharger. Which is the voltage of the electric engine and how many amps does it draw ?