R_34

Exhaust manifold, cam covers, power steering pump with the bracket, starter motor (the rb25 one is more powerfull though), the oil cooler of the rb25 is bolt-on the rb20. and the filter support of the rb20 is bolt-on the rb25. Flywheel clutch, turbo, viscous fan are also interchangeable. What are you trying to do exactly ?

If you're really concerned about knocking with the mine's ecu, you can set the CAS down to 12° with a timing gun. No need to alter the camshaft timing to do so.

Which one did you choose exactly ? It depends on the boost you want to run.

I drilled the oem oil cooler support and welded an adapter on it to install the temperature probe :

I snapped my rb20 turbo like this. That's why i'm running an higflow now. Don't do it unless you absolutely need it or are able to get a replacement unit easily.

Mine is hooked up like this (sorry for the crappy pic and engine bay) : In your case it all depends if you want/need recirculation of the blow by to the intake or not, and you intake manifold setup (oem or ffp). I didn't needed any recirculation and my can has a breather so I plumbed it like this. Just be careful not to place the catch can on the hot side of the engine like you pics shows it. If for any reason the can start to spill oil , you don't want it to fall on any glowing parts.

I don't know about the RB25 oil pump but the rotor of the RB20 is 9.3mm thick whereas the RB26 is 11mm thick. I couldn't source a RB20 oil pump for my 20. I installed a 26 oil pump and it's working like a charm.

No but an erratic airflow signal might throw a code, or the ECU could hit the limit when it's trying to trim the AFR with the O2 sensor. I don't know if the ECU is advanced enough to find a abnormal behavior from its sensor and throw a code.

I don't know the RB enough to answer this question. I didn't wired the OBD light on my S13 and I don't have a consult to check the codes when the leaks on the brake booster appears. If the OBD light isn't ON on the dash i doubt there is a code to read but double check this with a more experienced RB owner.

It looks like a vac leak, am I sure without having the car under my eyes ? No. Thing is there is a lot of R&R to search, find and fix a vacuum leak, especially on a RB because the injectors seal are difficult to reach. You can use some brake cleaner to find a leak with ease. Spray it around all the gasket/vacuum hose you can reach and listen to engine rpm change.

No an old fuel will not act like this. I had my S13 lying for a year before the swap, I managed to start it with difficulty (very very low compression on 2 cylinders), after some minutes of warm-up it ran great. No miss or rough idle, the engine was running on all cylinders and performed "normally". The old fuel filter if clogged or soon to be will restrain fuel flow so the engine will have difficulty to run when it weel need fuel flow. A friend of mine never changed is fuel filter, when the filter finally clogged, the engine was running like a charm at idle but couldn't move the car, as soon as it was giving some gas the engine would die. Check for the vacuum leak (especially around the injectors), plugs and coil, rusty earth etc...

I'm having it right now, the brake booster have a little leak from time to time. When it happens the AFR at idle goes up to ~16 AFR (instead of 15), the idle becomes rough and the vacuum lowers to -0.55b.

Pretty sure it's a vacuum leak.

Are the standard rubber hose reinforced with a spring inside ? If the hose collapse under load you can say goodbye to you turbo and possibly the engine as well. The turbo will overspin dangerously to maintain target boost pressure, possibly getting in the surge zone, and it will leak really badly from the compressor seal leading to knock. Hard pipe for the intake is always a good thing.

3" inch downpipe and elbow will help yes. Which actuator do you run on your turbo ? The RB20 one give more boost. I never runned a standard turbo with 3in exhaust, but you should get 1 bar with a complet 3 inch exhaust. That's what i was getting on my ca18 with the 3 inch turbo back exhaust and the standard actuator. The CA runs 0.7b stock just as the RB20. The EBC is not needed if the actuator is beefy enough to get you to about 1b. As for the injectors, the GTR ones needs the resistor and a "hack" job on the harness. Not a good solution IMHO. Not the one i would choose if it was my car. I don't know about injectors dynamics, but deatschwerk and siemens have injectors that are drop in. You just need spacers on the fuel rail for the siemens ones. The fuel pump is mandatory if you want to keep your engine happy and alive. The oem pump is quite old now, throwing high fuel pressure and bigger injectors at it will get you in trouble pretty quickly. The walbro is a better flowing unit than the bosch 040 in the pressure range we use. And you might find one with an install kit for your R32. The fpr is not needed. For the nistune it depends of the tuner. If you get it through him you can get some sort of warranty for installation and having the thing to work properly. It's always more comfortable if you work on something you've done. If I were you I'll get it through him. But does he accept to work on it ? He might want to sell you a link or a haltech or anything else. Check with him before to get a quote.

Decent wheels : do it quick. She's begging for it. Lowered and good wheels, she doesn't need anything else to me. Running with the standard airbox with the bottome opened a bit seems a better option than a pod to me. It's more street legal (stealthier at least ) and no less efficient because you get fresher air.

I posted my previous message with a smartphone. The signatures are'nt active in that case hence my dumb question. So now I and know it's on a RB25 but I missed something apparently, I still don't know which topic you're reffering to. Damn noob.

On which engine ?

What are the resistance value you get on the ECU sender ? Does the engine actually get the radiator and hoses hot or they just stay warm ? Is the hoses to the FPR plugged right and/or in good shape ? It could be a lot of things, bad engine temp sender, blown fpr or fpr not connected, thermostat stuck open preventing the engine to warm...

I'm on the standard tune, lower boost and I have much lower readings in WOT. Mine don't even reach 800°C, its more in the vicinity of 750°C. The rest of the operating range I get about the same readings. On standard 98 RON fuel.

I'm using a VEMS gauge which have AFR and EGT display on one gauge. I installed the probe in the turbine housing, right after the flange. To my experience, if you want a precise measure of actual EGT, you'll need to use a reactive probe, which means a thin TCK (ie 1.5mm or smaller). Unfortunately these never last long on turbocharged engines with high EGT/backpressure and strong waves in the manifold. I prefer having a more rugged (and less reactive) probe in the housing and getting some safety margin in the maximum allowable EGT when I'll get it tuned.

I don't think the RB20 is very fuel efficient at low revs given its design. I'm getting 10L/100 in extra urban driving with some pulls and the EUDM S13 final drive ratio (3.962).

Look at the first map on the first post. The ECU bring back some spark advance beyond 2500 rpm. +1 with these low temps thermostat. I've never understood why they want such a low temperature regulation. It worsen the efectiveness of the radiator just to bring back some water flow ? You loose the control of the temperature quicker that's all. It's like going down on injectors size to get them static sooner just to be sure to get the most of it. A total nonsense in performance point of vue. Getting a bigger radiator, sticking with the clutch fan, improving airflow over the radiator and under the hood. That's what makes the differences and really improves the cooling.

Nope, I removed all the piping and radiator of the aircon, and there was no digital climate control in France, only the manual one where you switch the AC compressor on or off. Only the holes in the firewall are left, I use them to passe the cable for the gauges and the vacuum hose for the EBC. The opening of the heater valve is manual and seems to works flawlessly, I don't have to force it to set it on hot or cold. Your AC circuit might miss some refrigerant to make enough cold in hot weather. What wasn't working in your AC ? In an LHD S13 the AC pipes goes over the turbo. It's not a problem as long as the car have the standard exhaust heat shield, the standard exhaust manifold and you don't have tu change the turbo. I changed the turbo once with the AC, when the second T25 let go I pulled all the AC stuff. I twas a pain in the ass to work on the hot side of the engine with it. Restropectively I should have kept it, I miss it sometimes.