GTRsean

I run -6 lines for my e85 setup with 2x walbro 450L pumps, and billet tank lid. Around 600whp. Some say too small, but meh, no problems yet.

Was told even a gtx3582r gen2 with a 1.01 rear would be nice if I went single. Pretty happy with the result and how these little lowmounts went. There is always going to be limitations with these setups but the way it performs, considering people keep asking me if it's a single turbo, I ain't complaining

I added some rpm numbers. Roughly that. Rev limit is 9200. Noses over due to either timing backing off approaching revlimit or valve float?

Tuned today at 101 motorsport, hot and humid day too. Being the baby gtx2860's I think they did well considering. e75 in the tank nitto 2.8 with otomoto v cam walbro 460 fuel pumps x 2 1300cc bosch injectors 100 cell cat, 3.5 inch exhaust

So I sold my -5's to a mate. Going on a z32 tt. Gtx2860's are back on and setup with no boost leaks this time. New engine and run in nicely. Still a 2.8 but nitto and crank trigger setup. On bp 98 and 22psi goes pretty well. On e85 better again. Will get dyno tuned soon and hopefully run some more boost. She's spiking if I try to turn up gain. More work needed there. Some custom intake pipes might get made up to replace the stock rubber ones. Running a mines front pipe with 89mm outlet, 100 cell cat and 89mm full exhaust. Not setup to dyno queen, but just haul in general

Will only be around 8.8 to 1. Gtx turbos go well with high boost pressures, and vcam makes up for bottom end/midrange torque off boost.

Well fast forward to now and I am building a new engine for it. Reason being oil in the coolant. On teardown I found cracks in the deck (marked in green). The oil was seeping pass the cracks at the headbolt holes and into the coolant galleries. I thought at first it was the dreaded cylinder head. Fingers crossed no more oil in the coolant with this one. The old engine has had 3 different turbo setups on it, gtx2860', hks T51r spl and '5's. She was a good donk since 2012 until the cracked deck. So while I was getting another virgin rb26 block machined I went ahead and bought a nitto 2.8 stroker kit. One reason why I didn't reuse the tomei setup was the crank and shorter rods. It is not a full counter crank, so the setup was replaced. New setup will run on e85 and the Gtx2860 turbos. Setup as follows: 05u block 86.5mm Ported head with bigger intake valves Nitto 2.8 stroker kit Arp studs N1 water pump Nitto oil pump Ati 1000hp damper High octane Crank trigger kit Acl race bearings Otomoto 260deg vcam Jun 252deg exhaust cam Haltec ecu Frenchies performance billet fuel hat and twin walbro 450L pumps 1350cc injectors Twin feed rail Will be good to get it all back together and run in. Dunno what it'll put out on the dyno but it should be good. Also got the getrag box freshened up and rebuilt with carbon synchros and a new 2nd gear, hub, slider etc, as the synchro teeth had seen better days. Front prop shaft was also rebuilt with new uni joints. Don't ask how much all this costs. I could of sold this car and bought a 35gtr, but couldn't bring myself to do it. Hope I made the right choice!

I was rounding to 2 decimals lol.

Hit and miss lol, works better than the shagged original starter though, eh?!

I put a VH45de in a mate's 180sx back in 2009, engineered in NSW and now mod plated in QLD. Should be in the NA topics

Bringing it back, Ceramics have a 12 sided looking nut on the end of the turbine which is one big piece of ceramic. Inconel 'steel' wheel rear turbine wheel I have seen them with a 3 sided rounded nut on the end of the casting... You can see it when looking at the skyline gtr turbo comparison photo on the world wide web...

Graph.

Very nice! Just need rear one's to match the front heheh.

So got it tuned with a t51R first= lag monster but was sorta driveable. Sounded awesome revving to 9k rpm...plus screamer heheh, 550WHP @20psi. Then went back to -5's and got it tuned again. Wow midrange is great and pulls well from down low! (stroker helps there) What I've found and Yavus at Unigroup already knew is that the 260deg intake cam supplied by otomoto is too big in duration. I ended up switching off vct at 7000 rpm as that is where it starts to drop off. So (in theory) you could leave a 260 deg cam for example at 20 or so degress advanced on you adjustable cam gear and only nose over after 7000rpm lol! Max I rev my setup to is 8-8500 rpm so you get 1000-1500 rpm of extra power for $3000... They need to (otomoto) sell an intake cam that has a shorter duration of say 242-248 degrees to bring down the switch over point and move the whole graph to the left a bit more More development necessary before I'm 100% happy with setup, but in the mean time, in short it's a beast heheh. I'll post a graph up soon. Don't worry about HP as dyno is a tuning tool heheh. I'll have to take it down the strip to see what MPH it pulls

Vcam setups work best on the street, make the engine feel bigger due to more low/midrange torque (cylinder pressure). My 2.8 now has VCT setup (otomoto kit) and it's great, makes -5's feel like -9's, but you keep the -5's top end If anyone cares: Intake 260deg 9.15mm lift, 0-20 deg sweep (NEO cam actuator), exhaust 252deg 9.7mm lift. Piggaz' setup will be epic for a 'street car' heheh.

I've booked in and will be driving down from QLD, so if the gtr behaves I'll see you guys there Will bring bits to sell at the swap meet too!

What colour fluid is in the transfer case? I've seen plenty leak, and it's usually from the gear boot being torn at the top of the transfer case. Oil gets thrown up by the internals and gets past the torn boot and dribbles down the side of the case...

I've seen the video of this, it's awesome once they dig the casting out

Over the years I like many other have watched/read with interest the different hp outputs that overseas dynos read vs our own readings. I do remember seeing somewhere that US chassis dyno readings will usually give readings that reflect flywheel HP so that they are easier to interpret (Keep in mind I can't confirm this info so please, no flamage heheh). The only true way to measure the HP and torque of an engine is to stick it on an engine dyno. No drivetrain to get in the way, or rollers etc. Oh and also the black top (QTR mile, 400m) as mentioned will give a good indication of HP after a few simple calculations But of course it isn't always practical hey?....

Me too Almost everything as per the vin. Thanks. Even found out it wasn't supposed to have the TV button/ sat setup heheh.

Wow that midrange is fat

Windsor Engines has one. He had to get one made to do the bottom ends I was building up

Wonder who's gonna fit em

I said that too, but after 11years, I'm on the single bandwagon lol!

So this is the latest. Got sick of waiting for months for my replacement head to come back from a business I tasked with machining for bigger intake valves and port clean up, so I'll be leaving the old one on. It's already lightly ported and has aftermarket springs/retainers. After 11 years of running GTR's and twin turbo's I'm going single heheh. Also got a haltec plat ecu so that will control the vct solenoid.