GTRsean

They are sold!!! Damn

Thanks for making it easy to check out the vehicle. You are pretty hard to get a hold of. Just need confirmation that money is in your account. Cheers, Sean

Funny! GTSS turbs were what I was going to get due to responsiveness. It could be: Tuning what sort of mapping was done in the spool up low revs area. Restriction in exhaust? Maybe if you had GTRS turbs you would have this issuse but you don't and thats crazy it's so laggy! Anyway good luck on your problem.

Whip out the circlip pliers and remove circlip, after you remove the rubber boot?

sounds like turbo shuffle. I thought it could be tuned out. Tends to happen with turbs spooling up (larger comp wheels) air moving at continually different rates through AFMS. I think thats hows it goes. There are a few threads on the topic.

fixed mine myself. The coil usually comes loose and breaks the copper wire that is riveted to the case. Soldering iron out plus some high temp silicone to reglue dounut coil to metal mount, aircon regassed and good as new. The coil seems to pull itself away from mount over time(years) when it tries to marry the metal clutch 1000's of cycles. The heat and movement gradually breaks the adhesive that holds the coil and that in turn breaks the wire. There is a thread on rebuilding the magnetic clutch coil, more info in that if you want it.

I made up my own front suspension arms and glued then to the disc brake to lower the front of an r32 GTR I'm building. Just cut off the standard suspension and kept the hub, disc, top of suspension and steering knuckle. Steering still works! The back was just glueing up some of the spruce to make up new suspension arms as well. Sorry no pics atm as I'm 16,000km from home.

TO4GTR: GTR one piece shown, (now in my 32).

No problems, except for a bit of drive line noise if you are in say 2nd or 4th gear taking off at low revs etc. The chromemolly tube transmitts some of the noise from the gearbox. Gbox is second hand anyway. In rwd it does light up wheels alot faster. Little difference in acceleration probably due to lighter flywheel and tripple plate assy. Be warned, your two piece gets chopped up for it's ends so you can't swap back unless you but another two piece like I did, just in case....

NIB, I was going to mention that as well, as the crank snout length to drive the pump affects the durability of the shabangas well. R33 GTR cranks and onwards have a thicker drive so nissan must of picked it up a little late for the 32's. I think I have a short crank drive being a 92 model and positive it has stock pump. One of the first things I'd do when rebuild comes is fit a JUN collar before fitting an N1 just so it has enough surface area to drive the inner gear to hopefully avoid the problem.

Um, the first one of course. It all depends on what people are after too.

Just remember how old some of these parts are getting now (especially 32's) as that would have an affect too along with fatigue, use and abuse, higher engine output (torque), frequency of servicing (oil changes), heat and quality of oil used.

Fair enough, main thing is as long as you are happy with it, go with it. I'm happy with my os triple as it has lasted so long (daily driver, 380ish RWHP) and only one busted g box so far, 3rd gear.

From the other side of the world in dirka dirka land,(11 days to go now). Happy Birthday Richard, and I hope your car gives you a big cuddle!.... I miss my GTR.

I thought more torque loading etc that the clutch lets through (quad vs triple) would mean more stress on the gearbox (physics), unless it has damper springs etc to take up shockloading. Still punishing gearbox though. OS GIKKEN STR twin sounds good.......

See the rear panel on my line (avtar pic), DIY. A lot of sanding, priming, painting, clear coating, wet and dry, and buffing. In the end you are better off getting it done professionally though.

Pic in UAS is the one they made up for my GTR. They have been doing the one piece for 300zx for a while now and made up one for me. Only issue I had was insufficient end clearance on the shaft which caused plenty of vibration above 80km/h and got worse the faster you went. I.E the guys who made it didn't make it short enough and I ended up with an interference fit. Had to get 20 or so mm cut off and the whole shebang rebalanced before I could put it in again. After all that it was fine and no more vibs or bearing noises. So, be very careful when measuring up tailshaft length and remember no end clearance will cost you dollars. (bearings, gearbox, uni's, vib kills em at either end). No bull.

Got one in mine as it came with it. pros, handle high HP handle a shit load of abuse(high rpm launches) last a long time still going after 5 years of use well built and engineered no slippage con's gearbox breaker (no spring dampers or give) bitch in stop start traffic

Got a kit from UAS. I fitted the kit which came with oil filter relocation adapters, braided hose, earls fittings and 19 row cooler. Had to make up some brackets and fitted cooler in front of the blowoff valves. Oil changes are not a pain anymore as a bonus.

If I had $10 for every idiot that hangs his head out the window stares at the brakes for a second and says: "thats not a GTR, it doesn't have BREMBOS" to me or to his stupid mates I'd be very rich atm. No wheelspin as I take off and leave them for dead.....hmmm maybe it was.

The ap calipers don't have piston dust seals so are not suited to street driving.

Sleeving the cylinders could get more life out of block if it's scored too bad etc?

crazy. Iv'e got the money but something tells me don't bother.....

Love this thread. It's so true!!!

Seems 87mm to 87.5 pistons is the max you would dare to go in general due to cylinder wall thickness/cracking esp for xtra boost, mods etc. Anyone elses opinon?