GTRsean

true, the engines got to warm up first. If you want it not so rich, talk to a tuner to alter cold start map if you have an aftermarket ecu or piggyback.

At least half would be labour. Check out their website for the list of what they do. Pretty interesting.

Said part being sent to me now, cheers.

Ahh, the joys of imports. You could always get a holden, they never break down!!!hee hee.

go stock pistons or forgies for street90% and occasional drag/track10% days if you rebuild and don't have 10+k to spend? How about hypertunetic pistons (inbetween cast and forged)? Forgies when cold have more piston to bore clearance for expansion etc, cause more wear over time but handle more punishment. I don't like the thought of more wear but I also don't want to bust a cast piston when up it.

What I've read over the years: Roughly speaking. Stock pistons, 600Hp crank Rods, 600-700 Hp at the crank Lots of revs and detonation, poor tuning will kill stuff quicker, so many variables.

"Yeah, after seeing them on a GTR, im very interested to see how a RWD application works with the RWD dynamics being totally different" No traction, in the first few gears. I thought that 2530's would be a little full on for my stock innards RB26, but I'll keep em in mind. How much roughly brand new for 2530's?

os gikken STR twin plate, 600hp rated. Reason a great all round clutch, quiet, not too hard on your gear box, last longer than most. Still got an os gikken tripple in mine and still going strong after years and years of abuse so brand is good.

Don't you have to muck around with speedo drive,r32 cable, r33 electronic sender or can you just rip the assembly out and swap in?

Can't go past a brand new R34 vspec 2 nur pumping out around 900hp plus nos, awsome road car that looks cool airborne.

They would stick out ouf the guards a bit on a r33 gtst. You would need to roll and pump out guards or have a lot of ride height to stop rubbing.

been there done that. $900 bucks and two days later got a second hand box and fitted it on parents front driveway. Took two days with bugger all tools. Good luck.

Me too. I'm looking at upgrading to either R34 n1s $3200 or HKS GT-SS $4200. My aim is for a jack of all trades street car for daily driving, and the odd drag and track session. I have the support stuff in place, nismo pump, 720cc injectors, no airflowmeters, front pipes big fmic etc. Dump pipes would go in once the current R33 n1 turbos are taken out. Just want to update turbos to ball bearing for more response and power. I liked the power that the n1's put out, but my aim is for around 350+kw at the wheels with more response. So it's down to 34n1s or GT-SS. Have read the whole topic and it helps a fair bit, but I need more info on driveability in varying conditions, use.

mine used to idle at 1400 warm so I got the shits with it and adjusted the flat head screw that is in the front of the idle air control valve. Screw it in, out and you will see RPM raise or lower. Now mine is around 950-1000RPM.

Yep Geoff's right Archie. I used a tube of k&h stop putty to fill bumpers. It works a treat. Beware though, it etches into the plastic to bond. Cut and sands easily.

pic of turbine wheel and a/r trim would be a help to identify.

Thanks for that. One of my mates wants to buy it for his 180sx. It's got a Ca18det in it and plans to put it in together with front mount, fuel pump, power fc, dump pipe, front pipe etc. He's aiming for around 180RWKWS.

Thanks Alex. Does anyone know what the HP rating is for this turbo based on info given?

GTR324 skyline anyone. This is another work in progress. An R32 GTR body with R34 front and rear bumpers and side skirts.

Bought one of em r34 1:24 Tamiya Z tune kits as well. Look so cool. Also got an r32 GTR 1:24 Tamiya kit with engine. Building the r32 engine up to look like the one in my car. Couldn't get a clear cam cover and it would be too fiddly to make. Scratch built the wastegate actuators, cam gears, belt and CAS sensor etc. Here's a work in progress pic of the engine assy. So bloody fiddly but worth it: The engine will go into the mini version of my car when I get the r34 wheels for the real one.

1.2-1.3 bar roughly 17 PSI 296rwkw .85 bar 13 PSI 250rwkw r33 N1 turbs stock engine nismo pump big injectors 720cc(overkill i know) piggy back computer, power fc would do it too bigger front mount and intercooler piping hks iridium sparkies hks evc Luck that all this stuff came with car. oh and i put in front pipes, big cat 3 to 3.5 inch exhaust

Bought a turbo off a mate and he said it was a T28. Anyone know exactly what this garrett turbo is? Compressor A/R.80 Turbine A/R.64 Written on plate: TK 0410 J 14411-50F00 466113-1

R34 N1 ball bearing turbos 320HP usually around $3000 mark. Great light tune upgade. Can get up to 350 RWKW ? I have R33 N1 bush turbos and car was dynoed at 296 RWKW so they would be good for around 300 RWKW depending on mods you have. Theres a good article in HPI magazine about the differences a couple of months ago.

Cold Air Intake SOLD, pending reply. Turbo Timer SOLD, pending reply.

Cold air intake is installed in LHS intake, above brake duct hole. It sits in next to the intercooler pipe. Nardi wheel is SOLD. Cheers, Sean