GTRsean

3.2 k per sec wooo hooo.

I am currently building an r33 GTR and have stuffed the paint on it twice now. I'm wet and dry papering it to get it smooth and am painting it in bright red, then clear coat. I'll post a pic when I succeed... Here's my 1991 biante 1:18 bathurst winner I bought a while back. Just need the winfield one now. Some more pics of Tamiya models and others,

I spray paint the shell with the tamiya paint and then clear coat the shell for that real life look. (not recommended for cars with lots of decals on body) But if you do a few ultra fine light coats on the decals it's well worth the patience. Once they have clear coat on em they are easier to dust off and clean. Nice car pics fellas keep em coming. Also if you guys have any tips to share you know what to do.

Its a fault code. count the flashes and the flashes will be in groups. eg 4 flashes then 2 flashes is 42. Give us the code (number) and i'll look up the fault for that number you give me.

check computer under rear parcel shelf in boot and see if there is any fault code(red light flashing when ignition is on.)

R32 GTR 12.5 @ 116 MPH WSID

Got mine from OTOMOTO, set of four, two large, two small. Comes with instructions. Cost me $99. I recommend 32" lockwire as the thinner stuff that comes with the kit is too thin.

SPRINGS ARE SOLD, SOLD, SOLD.

It just occured to me that I haven't seen a scale model skyline in the forum (pics). Just wondering if any of you guys and gals have built any skyline or similar kits in your spare time? If you have you should post up some pics of your favourites you have built and painted. When I couldn't drive for a while I got a bit bored: Hand painted em and spray painted the shells.

I think the main problem people have is the wheel speed sensors that the ABS and 4WD system computers use, then wiring etc. Check the RED LED fault code light on the computer in the boot and see how many times it fashes. My service manual I look up gives me the origin of the suspected fault.

Looks like it. My car manual talked about it being available on some models.

Okay, I'm selling the following cos I don't need em and got too much crap already. I'm in Richmond, Sydney so If you want to organise details for an item PM me. *ALL items are for R32 GTR unless otherwise noted.* 1 set of Whiteline FIRM springs, used in the car for 3 months. Great condition. Lowers the car to (approx) 345mm guard to wheel center. cost $300 new. SELLING FOR $150 FIRM (((SOLD))) 1 Front left ABS SENSOR has connector on it, not cut. Good nick. SELL FOR $40 Front pair of OHLINS SHOCKS, Require rebuild as they thud if going over rippled bump. SELL $100 1 stock original boost solenoid valve. Works. Didn't need it as I already have an EBC. SELL $50 (((SOLD))) 1 R32 GTS-t Clutch fork SELL$20 1 Active amp (from rear parel shelf) SELL$10 1 R31 skyline silouette automatic ECU(AUTO) and, control module from under passenger seat SELL$30

You'd be quicker than me. I got no tailshaft in my car and it's missing a front CV joint so no front wheel drive ether. Quit complaining, I'll be pushing mine.

Hicas made me crash into the side of the cliff at Lithgow in Dec. Went around corner uphill tail came out a bit and the car went into oversteer. Put in opposite lock and almost got it back, when suddenly the back kicked out further dure to the rear steer doing it's thing. Game over for me, car did a 180 spin across three lanes up the hill and slammed into the 30cm high concrete curb. Bent lower links, snapped front hub, smashed front wheel and egg shaped back wheel, crached front bar and lip, s shaped cusco caster rod and very empty pockets afterwards. Managed to fix it all up, Just Jap and Unique Autosports were able to supply parts so it all went back together okay. Just went about getting rid of rear steering system on my 32 GTR. Got rid of the hydraulic plumbing and solenoid valve right up to where the clutch is. I put a 40watt 16ohm dummy load on the solenoid connector so there is no hicas fault light. Got a return pipe made up to plumb ack the power steering fluid back to the reservior. This has threaded fittings so you just bolt it in after taking out the 2 2 metre long hyd pipes that go to the back of the car. If anyone wants pics (setup) of the plumb back line and the stuff removed just say so. This is for R32's only. R33's have electronic rear steering racks.

Should fit. Pretty much the same dash.

About the map sensor being subject to heat and vibration. Mine is mounted to the firewall and connected by vacuum line to engine. No worries if you do it that way... Mine runs a HKS f-con with MAP sensor only buy the way. It needs more tuning for hot starts, coming onto boost (flat spot) and wide open throttle once at set boost. Other than that she runs okay with a D-Jetro (MAP SENSOR) set up.

180 klm speed cut???

Hey man. I've had the same issue. It's all about rolling diameter of the tyres. The wheels speed sensors are picking up a difference in wheel speed between front and rear wheels so it's telling the attessa system to give a bit of drive to the front wheels. Use the same diameter tyres front and back and this problem should go away.

stock gtr, sports med tyres no tcs, manual ran an 8:29 real life when the r32 first came out the driver got 8:22

you can't tell. check turbo numbers as they are slightly dirrerent

oh yeah. dump fuel pressure, pull off connectors and fuel lines, undo two nuts on fuel rail, and while your at it you might as well check/replace the others. $10 bucks for each pissy little oring!! it can add up very quickly. I ultrasonic bathed my injectors too while i had the fuel rail off.

10 bucks each from nissan.

Got a triple plate in mine and it's still great launch after launch. Did a 4 wheel doughnut burnount once and it is pretty specy. All everyone sees at night is lots of white smoke coming off all the wheels and headlights going round and round!!

airflowmeter(s) stuffed??? Heat affecting something??

same as sav man and I get around 600k on the highway@115kmh