GTRsean

A workmate did that conversion to his. He loves it and it goes well! RB25DET neo and came with mines ecu. Straight bolt into gbox etc, great conversion!!! He used a water to air intercooler setup though. As mentioned above, use the RD28 eng mounts, Use the RD sump too. Also the RD flywheel and a heavy duty clutch. Heavy flywheel will help with heavy 4x4.

Yep pretty much. My new home .

I'd be keen, just moved up here from Sydney, so would be nice to catch up with you guys!

Think so, three wire pickup 1mm or so from trigger teeth. Who knows about the R&D done for specific applications... seems to me like it would be easy for 'them' to take a V8 design dampener and apply it straight to any other engine configs. Who knows if they actually tune the damn things lol. All I know is, now it ain't harmonic-ing , and if it is, it would be within acceptable factory levels (as in not noticeable). I like this statement: (from zhome.com) And the purpose of the doohickey on the front of the crank - call it a harmonic balancer or a vibration dampener or the Grand Panjandrum With the Little Round Button On Top, that doesn't change its function - is to reduce the damaging effect of this pulsating, vibrating, harmonic-laden force twisting the crank. (speedtalk.com) They are talking about hemi 6's lol... You are correct in that Inline 6's have a large 3rd order, 1st mode, torsion peak near 5000rpm, although this does vary a bit with engine size. Smaller engines have stiffer / lighter cranks and the peak is a little higher in the rpm range, larger engines the opposite. In the case of the 3rd order peak at 5000, the resonant frequency of the crank would be 3 x 5000 / 60 = 250 cps. (Hz). The next higher peak in the rpm range would be 2.5th order occuring at 250 cps x 60 / 2.5 = 6000 rpm. The next after that would be 2.0nd order occuring at 250 cps x 60 / 2.0 = 7500 rpm. These peaks would be of significant height, but quite a bit smaller than the 3rd order, usually 1/2 - 1/3. I have seen the 3rd order peaks in these engine go over 2.0° twist p-p, that is 1° degree each way from neutral. Generally, the OEM's do not allow more than about 0.4° p-p for long term durability on an I6, and that is at OEM power levels.

Nice base to build up. Good luck with the revival!!!

A few of you have asked why I got the Ross balancer balanced. I went and got it straight from him at his shop and he assembled all the pieces from his parts rack. He did not balance it for me as I said I'd get it done at engine reco's. He just uses a wheel balance machine anyways... So I changed to a brand new stock balancer and yep, it's as good as new. no more harmonics or thrown belts. Ross one is getting sent back to find out what happened to the dampener, whether it has de-lammed or something else. Also pulled trigger setup off for now too. I'm just happy it's smooth again!

Most performance shops should be able to get it in. Got mine from UAS, it's the real structural stuff. Cut it with cutting wheel on an angle grinder and used a tension saw to cut the smaller angles, then a quick brush with a file. Don't breathe in the dust!

One of his workers must have done a shifty....

Bought some prepreg carbon sheet and made my own add ons a while back as the stock fins were a little ratty on the outer sides. Definately suits the rear diffuser! Just have to trim the forward edges down for a little more ground clearance, that's about it.

Just did a full build on a RB26. Tomei 2.8 kit etc. Ross dampener with crank trigger wheel and power steering 20% underdrive All items were balanced and crank, then ross dampener, crank gear, then the flywheel and housing, were balanced on the balancing machine. Currently I'm on the 4th powersteering belt, even with 20% underdrive on the power steering. And have spat 1 aircon belt when the power steering belt came off the 4th time. It's nearly killed, or written off the car twice due to suddenly loosing power steering when you need it most!!... So, what I have experienced is harmonics from the crank, and the dampener is not doing it's job. I get very noticeable vibration at 6500RPM (free reving, and holding at that RPM point as well as driving). And some vibration between 7000-8000RPM. Even took the car to an experienced engine builder/rebuilder and showed him, and he agreed that the dampener could be faulty as it is not suficiently reducing the crank twist/harmonics. As the inline 6 configuration has great 1st order and 2nd order harmonics, but inherently bad at 3rd order harmonics, having an effective dampener is extremely important. More relevant as we see RB's hitting over 6-7-8000RPM in their normal factory rev range! I'm pretty sure mine is faulty, and have ordered a brand new standard balancer to see if the problem really is the dampener. If I leave it as is it will: 1.keep throwing belts at high rpm 2.cause other damage to engine components such as the block(cracking from harmonic vibrations), flywheel bolts maybe rattling loose, and oil pump damage/failure. I'll post here again once I have changed the dampener

Good to catch up with a few peeps!, in the short time I was there! I got a couple of car pics haha!

Nice time Clayton!, You have the MPH to get in the 10's!!! What was your 60 foot time? Mine was a 1.8, I think best I've ever got with the 34 and 32 was a 1.7 on road tyres. Mine was shaking the stick a lot too! I'm bad I need to slip the clutch a little more (hate doing it) and find the sweet spot for revs, too low she bogs, to high as you saw, and it wheel spins first gear!! Practice make perfect I had all new engine, and clutch setup so it was re learn on the go haha! I'm after a 10.5-10.9, I'll be happy with that! especially with how much I've emptied the wallet

Damn that's quick! Best right now: 11.6 @124mph 330ish RWKW More to come

Just vibrations at low RPM transfered through crank to drivetrain. Nothing to worry about. Nissan reduced the noise issue with dual mass flywheels in the R34GTR and s15 silvia's etc, but we all just rip em out and put in performance setups anyway

33 and 34GTRs have the ATTESSA pump setup under the RH rear bumper area behind the rear wheel....it got moved after the 32

What timing belt? Gates belts are known to get certain harmonics and can affect timing to a degree, but not 10degrees!! Guess in you case the drive is worn then...

Some pics I dug up off my hard drives. Love em!!

I'd say CAS too. We had one go 12 deg advanced by itself. New CAS $350ish from UAS, fixed as good as new.

Correct you are

Check that sexy guy out!! Oh and these engines are single cam, pushrod, non crossflow alloy head. Cam will be on from 3500 to 7500RPM from memory. Can't go over 8000 for long periods of time as the blocks tend to crack haha.... Considering that the standard 5K that was in it put out 47 RWKW with the carbs slapped on and the existing 4 into 1 headers....I'm scared. Still no brake or suspension upgrades yet......how not to do up a car, but makes you feel more alive

You should be

Fixed your ignition yet?

Gonna be sweet!!

Peak power at 6000, nice

Someone get these!!!