GTRsean

If you drive a performance car they always pick on you and ask you about people youv'e never heard of before, then RBT you and look around your ride. Never happened when I had my commondoor!!! I wonder why!!!

How about getting N1's that have bushings replaced with ball bearings??? It should be possible to get that done eh. Dismantled my two as the bushings are scored and out of tolerance(005"- 008") play.

I just pulled off both turbos off my r32 over the weekend and need to find out what spec these actually are. They are NOT! N1's as I was told they were and this car had been running 1.3 bar for who knows how long. The bearings are bushes and they have ceramic turbine wheels that are in as new condition. Just the bushings are worn. I need to find out what these are off. An r32, or a r33. Here's the specs: Compressor A/R 42, Turbine A/R 64 BB 0102J, 14411-24U10, 466089-6C Any help would be excellent as I'm deciding what to do with the turbo's. Cheers.

How about getting N1 turbo's rebuilt? These were in the GTR32 when I got it and the front one has started to scrape the case, Bearings worn out from lack of oil changes!from last owner. I like the response from these turbos. Any ideas, short on cash at the moment and want to find out what my options are.

Yes, I believe you because I know about engines and have also read some articles on the subject and you are correct!! Get some time up or know what you're talking about if you think it can't happen, otherwise people get the wrong info!!

I'm heading down to hobart late Nov hopefully. Can't wait to see what cool cars are down there cos this year I'm taking the GTR down there to do some cruising and catch up with mates. Easy to spot with crappy NSW plates. Mate in Kingston beach want to put a rb20det in a r31 skyline stationwagon!, if he can get the shit together.

With valve overlap and timing you can still get bits of ceramic into the combustion chamber. Exhaust gasses aren't continuously flowing out of the engine and in that short time when they are not you will get a neg pressure, backflow depending on manifolds, exhaust system, valve overlap etc. So, it is possible but doesn't happen to every engine!!

290 in r32 GTR 1.3 bar, private rd. Had to slow down after couple of klms of straight as cane field railway tracks were coming up and i didn't want to launch her. Stable at high speed too, after that one of the turbos shit itself!!

My 1992 r32 GTR did exactly the same thing one night. The oil px guage was really low and ended up going to zero. It would only rise if i revved it. Weird thing is it came good next day. Checked wiring to oil px sender(gave it a wiggle). Only thing I can explain is a bit of crap got stuck in the orifice of the oil px sender. It cleared itself out I guess. Due for an oil change soon anyway(every 5000k).

Though so. My r32 GTR Didn't have an oil change for ages when I bought it. After an oil change oil was still black!!! This is very bad for engines, esp for Turbo's as I found out the hard way. Anyway, I do the usual oil change every 5000k and filter at the same time because there is so much crap from not being changed for ages(not driven much by previous owner but caned when it was). After around 2000k's one of the turbos decides to crap itself after a couple of high speed runs at 1.35 Bar. The compressor is rubbing on the housing from bearings being stuffed. My car had R33 n1 turbos already fitted, and since they are a ball bearing type I read somewhere that they don't like dirty oil and I think thats what has stuffed em. Now I gotta rip em out and fix em. I'm thinking of getting them rebuilt and highflowed. Engine is still good, should do a compression test on it. It runs a HKS f-con v pro piggyback computer. How hard are they to get tuned?

Rear left rear right front left front right Then if it has ABS do them last(LHS of eng bay, two bleed nipples).

Gold flecks? Turbo bushings, are they bronze material. Oil pressure drops, could be blockage in oil px sender that sometimes frees itself.

Put the biggest one in you can. Car will start easier, more reserve for stereo, lights etc. Put a 480cc maintenance free bat in my r32 GTR. Way better than pissy bat. Only down side is more kg.

Manual doesn't mention to replace cover gaskets. Just make sure they are clean and not damaged and reinstall.

Anyone got any tips for pulling out my gearbox? My clutch fork has cracked and I cannot disengage the clutch. Bought another fork($45) and a new thrust bearing ($50). I planned to do it myself to save some bucks and while the box is out I might pull it apart rebuild and put in new synchros. Got the manual so I've got an idea of how hard it's going to be.

It's normal. I have the dealer service manual on CDROM and have read about the funky little systems our GTR's. The relay(S) you are talking about switch the HICAS 4WD pressure pump on and off. It usually switches in for 1/4 sec every 30 sec or so. Think it tests the pump and solenoid valve and primes itself. (hicas pump is located on top of rear diff). If you disconnect the relay the pump will not operate and the 4WD light will stay on in the dash until you reconnect it and start engine again. Hope that helps.

One cylinder is not firing, so you will get a slight vibe. The computer will compensate for drop in idle and it will try to idle like nothings wrong. Try disconnecting plug packs one by one and find out which cylinder it is.(If that doesn't help the other thing it could be is your ignition module). Less likely: Have you checked your spark plugs.

When I first got oil for my GTR32 I used Penrite, but found that Motul synthetic oil was a bit cheaper and way better. Oil px is good esp on start up and engine seems to be a little quieter esp when cold. Best to get the viscosity that nissan recommend because the RB engine are built to close tolerances and I wouldn't want to put in something too thin or too thick.

My 92 R32 GTR crunches when changing to 4th and 5th gears, but nearly always at high revs when shifting. The r33 GTST has the same gearbox as the 32GTR so maybe it's the nissan synchro's saying 'i don't like it anymore'. I changed my g box oil with castol and it's not so bad now, but it only does it at high rev changes. I've heard that REDLINE SHOCKPROOF gear oil would be something else to try before pulling out the box. Thrust bearings are not always the cause of crunching, it's you're clutch pedal height from the floor that can affect cear changes too(clutch not fully disengaged from engine).