GTRsean

You just need some micro switches on the gear shifter for ignition cut on full throttle gear shifts, flat shifting FTW! heheh flame on!

The $2990 Otomoto kit is the bare bones though. You still need the following: -Exhaust cam upgrade to make it worthwhile (optional) -RB25Neo intake cam phaser and solenoid, plus you need to mod the phaser. -ECU or rpm controller to control the solenoid, wiring -Mod your 26 front cover (ie cut hole) or remove to fit the longer cam gear phaser. For an extra 1K or so can get the HKS goodness

I'd say no, especially if running on E85.

Yep, they are proven even though they are old. I did mod mine for more reliability though. Fitted some DIY brass bearing cages to get rid of the plastic/nylon cages that tend to crap out. Unsure if the newer GTX runs the same crap cages or not.

Yeah true, I have 2530 front covers I was going to get machined to suit, but they may be too big? would probably work on the 2863's. Anyway for my needs the -5's are fine, and I like the sounds they make

Highest I ran with GTX 2860's, original front housings was 124MPH WSID. BP98 23PSI stock cams blah blah..

On my recent trip to Japan, went to the Nismo Omori factory and got some goodies. Ciggy lighter led torch Nismo watch The watch I've decided to sell as I have a G shock that I prefer It's never been used, so brand new. Let me know if you are keen $350

On a 2.6 you definitely need the right setup/method to be responsive Daz has the right ingredients and method heheh! By the way Daz I wasn't trying to be a smart arse I had good results from GTX2860's with a stroker setup, stock cams and BP98, but went shit when I put in cams and got another tuner to tune the setup when I headed north...

Umm check the dates guys lol. 02 Nov 2014...

The old 'you need this and that' trick lol. They are more likely to spit a shim hey! but with the poncams you picked, you'll be fine.

Yeah stroker or a 3+ litre with E85 heheh.

^ Agreed. The way these pistons are made go with that

2 thou is good, as the tomei (jap brand) pistons seem to have a higher silicon content than the US counterparts, so they won't expand as much.. My machinist thought 2 thou was a little tight lol. I'll find out what it looks like when I pull mine apart for a birthday. I built it a few years back. I want to remove the L19 rod bolts and put in some new ARP 625's

Got mine honed to 2.5 thou, tomei pistons, torque plate hone.

Haha yep I'm still kicking around

I just bought the stage 1 otomoto kit for my 2.8 'baby' stroker with -5's. I staying with 98 octane pump fuel so I'll need all the help I can get out of my 'street' setup. I have a couple of neo vct units and a neo solenoid laying around from my 'poor mans' v cam idea, so they will be perfect for this kit. I'll try to get some results/comparisons once I've fitted it. I'm running a PFC so I'll most likely go a jaycar style rpm switch controller to control the solenoid.

Hpi dumps not fitting is news to me. I bought some that were originally on a 33GTR, bolted straight up to my 34GTR setup (GTX2860's now -5's) no problem. You sure they didn't try to fit them back to front lol?! as they are different for front and rear.

I'm guessing to suit RB26.

I'll put up a pic tomorrow if I remember

Read some posts on here lol, you guys... So we had an engine that was freshly rebuilt last 500km before it decided to lose it's timing and bend 8 intake valves. The cause was narrowed down to the brand new idler bearing bolt that was fitted to the fresh engine. It ended up snapping clean off at the threaded portion. This caused the idler bearing to fall away and then the belt lost tension, valves kissed pistons and that was that. Parts involved: New genuine oem timing belt NSK bearings New idler bolt stock cam gears stock cams Now onto the bolt. I bought this bolt as a new genuine item, and after comparing it to the original bolt there are some differences. Original bolt is cad plated, and the threads are smooth cut, maybe even a rolled thread. The new replacement has the same markings and dimensions but is zinc or similar plated and has rough cut threads. The rough cut threads can be the start of stress raisers in the metal and fatigue over time. I'm sure this is what happened to the new bolt. I'm thinking of getting the bolts tested against originals to see if there is a difference in hardness etc. And before some of you 'pros' say buy another, I've bought another 6 and they all look shit. Time for ARP spec or something else.

After reading that, buyer beware!

Location.

And then...? no pics

Apparently the 'racepace special' is pretty good, they get a 2860-9 turbo and fit a -5 exhaust housing for less restriction in the higher boost/rpm ranges without sacrificing too much down low. Wish I had a chance to do this when I had my -9's...

On different setups, I ran the GTX2860's with the stock anti surge front housings with welded on flanges in my 2.8. In short they come on boost later than a 2860-5. They are quieter though. I switched to 2860-5's with brass bearing cages made and fitted by me I like the 'feeling' -5's better, but the GTX series has silicone nitride bearings (stops metal depositing and galling) and metal cages plus the billet wheel (that is great for running over 27psi...E85)