GTRsean

I got them too. just waiting to get my hands on them

Just bought a set of 265 40R18's!!!, so nope. Oh well!!

I have 2x Nexen N3000 tyres for sale. Second hand, only a few months old and have 90% plus tread left. Size is 275-35R18, to suit an 18x9 - 18x10.5 wheel. Good all round tyre, only took them off because I went for a taller side wall so that meant 4 new tyres. Price: $200 for both. They costed me $260 each new so grab a bargain!! SOLD Nismo coilovers I bought them off another member second hand, fronts probably need rebuild, never tried rears, so going cheap. I bought bilsteins so I don't need em. no leaks, to suit R33GTR, R34's, GTR These have height adjustment over the normal s tunes. Price: $250 Pick up from Richmond, western Sydney. Or I'll drop off within a few k's of Richmond. PM if interested.

No, not pillowball. Bushes are similar to nismo style hardness in the material , just urethane.

From the whiteline website: http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=Nissan&model=Skyline&model_final=SKYLINE+R34+GTR+AWD&vehicle=11%2F98-02 Part numbers: KTA 128 KTA117 Those are the one's I plan to use....

Just get some nismo engine mounts. They all same, all have sony guts!!! Only difference is gearbox mount, 32-33 are different to 34GTR

Okay, I wanna get you guys together and we gotta do some group shots somewhere!!! Such fine examples Spotless cars are a requirement haha!

Nice turnout!! I couldn't stay on, as it was a last minute decision to go, as I have a very early airport trip but managed to take a few happy snaps. I'll post up once I edit them

Shhh, can't tell people . They are never on hand and always have to wait and order em in. I have the castor bush kit with an offset pin for more caster, so i get to keep the light aluminum lower arms. Whitle front and rear adjustable sway bars, and I just ordered the rear swaybar bearing link kit to go with it. My 32GTR had whiteline sway bars too, and their camber correction bush kits. 6 years of use and the bushes were fine.

I'm going to go for the whiteline adjustable upper rear arms and toe links.

pop the bonnet please sir.......... Should sound sweet

So much for looking 'stock' haha!

Almost the same....so like 1000RPM difference? Anyways, courtesy of garrett: GTX2860R:

The bottom line is that octane comparisons won't help, as Aus and US ratings are measured differently, as well as dyno corrections..... Taken from wiki: (see wiki for fuel table) The octane rating shown in Canada and the United States is 4 to 5 points lower than the rating shown elsewhere in the world for the same fuel. See the table in the following section for a comparison. Australia: "regular" unleaded fuel is 91 RON, "premium" unleaded with 95 RON is widely available, and 98 RON fuel is also reasonably common. United States: in the US octane rating is displayed in AKI. In the Rocky Mountain (high elevation) states, 85 AKI (90 RON) is the minimum octane, and 91 AKI (95 RON) is the maximum octane available in fuel. The reason for this is that in higher-elevation areas, a typical naturally aspirated engine draws in less air mass per cycle because of the reduced density of the atmosphere. This directly translates to less fuel and reduced absolute compression in the cylinder, therefore deterring knock. It is safe to fill a carbureted car that normally takes 87 AKI fuel at sea level with 85 AKI fuel in the mountains, but at sea level the fuel may cause damage to the engine. A disadvantage to this strategy is that most turbocharged vehicles are unable to produce full power, even when using the "premium" 91 AKI fuel. In some east coast states, up to 94 AKI (98 RON) is available.

^ This is what I was thinking. The inlets, I would get aluminum pipe mandrel bent at the same angle as stockers and accept that it would use a 60-65mm inlet bellmouthed out and welded to the 3 inch shortened compressor snout. I agree jangles. The v band idea would work well too.

Searched for you: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/286728-nissan-gtr-high-idle-and-throttle-body-fix/page__p__6422174__hl__high%20idle__fromsearch__1#entry6422174 This one is good....

I'm starting to seriously look at a set of GTX2860's for my project as I was going to go the -5's. I know it won't be a straight bolt in affair but I have a few ideas on how to make it look stock, using factory airbox, rubber joiners etc which will mean a 60mm inlet (i will keep 60mm AFM's). Cutting and aluminum welding will need to be done as there is no way I am going to use silicone joiners on the compressor housings. Especially the back one. I hope to find out if the stock manifolds will also clear the compressor housings.

Yay saw my car!!! I remember it being a great turnout considering the weather. Great display of stageas too by all, and I read the magazine article as well.

I'll fix wiki....thanks for the info

You mean 05U... 05U : standard block- strong-cheap 24U : N1 block- stronger-pricey RRR : GT block- strongest-damn expensive

I have just started getting blocks partial grout filled to lessen chance of cracking. 05U ones especially. I do this on RB26 builds now....

End of the day all you can really do, is get a very thorough inspection by someone that specialises in GTR's. Sort out the good from the not so good. The 2002's are over 10 years old now...

No worries BP 98 should get 360-390 at 20-22PSI, 400 plus at 25PSI, but all setups differ. Run a 4 inch full exhaust with 3 inch into 4 inch front pipe, that should help too. E85, 400 kw+ easy, but your injectors and fuel pump will need upgrading... I want 400 too, as I plan to go -5's as well.

That is how I set mine up, with the engine still in car....what a pain haha. I wasn't real keen with the smaller hoses too but it's worked so far. Might change it if I do engine up.