GTRsean

G'day Chris, welcome to the forums and we hope to see you at one of our offical events in the future too!

After dummy fitting the cylinder head, it was removed, head gasket was hylomared, then head was fitted and torqued in steps to 110 FTLBs. Then cam caps were fitted and torqued to 10FTLBs. Timing accessories were then fitted and a dial gauge used to check piston Top Dead Center etc. Cam gears set to 0, 0 degrees, as HKS cams are being used, and they can be fiddled with on the dyno at a later stage. Block painted in heatproof matt black to see leaks easily Timing done! Nice colour. Harmonic balancer still needs to be torqued up. Might make up a tool to hold the balancer at the front as I'm torquing up the crank bolt, instead of twisting the crank if I held it at the back of the crank....

These were measurements I took yesterday with the pistons at TDC, bottom end dummy assembled. 0.0045" under your 33 thou. He'll love the idle more then haha, barp barrrp barp....along with the cams. I'll dummy fit head and double check gap with clay. So I fitted head and measured the clay after lunch. Squish measured up at 0.038" with the head torqued down.

Hi Bob, Block had about 0.006" taken off the deck, I was told. Deck height of pistons' quench measured up 0.016-0.017'' proud of the deck, 0.003-0.004" on the other side squish. He is using a cosworth 1.1mm (0.0455") head gasket. So squish will be 0.0285". So over 0.5mm, it should be enough clearance when engine is running in the higher RPM ranges. I aim to have the cylinder head on and torqued up tomorrow.

The ports got a bit of a clean up, removing steps in the radius etc, and that was about it. I didn't remove the 'humps' in the exhaust ports, just my choice . Just to prove I ain't ripping off web pics, my ugly mug lol. Putting grubscrews into crank, loctited in to be sure. Crank getting fitted and measured up for bearing clearances 0.0015"-0.002" from memory, thrust 0.011". Girdle torqued up, and you can just see the 3 long studs that have been shortened to clear sump and driveshaft tube. 55FT-LB. Pistons and rods getting some attention. Piston rings clocked as per service manual. Fitting the piston and rod into the bore. Rod bolts, I tightened them using a bolt stretch gauge on the 3rd cycle. 0.0055" stretch. Today piston to deck height will be measured and if all good it'll all be put together permanently.

Hot day, slipping clutch....12.001

Just picked up the block and crank from the machinist. Building will start soon!! First pic is the block on the honing machine, the torque plate is still attatched to the top of the block.

Come round , if you can catch me on a spare moment!

Use a proper AFM cleaner, as carby cleaner may be too harsh on the electrical element and sensor. $25 or so for a can, compared to $100's to replace a damaged AFM.

Yep, you may as well get a stock rail and fpr, and then check fuel pressure again. The sard was genuine by the way...

The studs that protrude futher up to bolt the lobe covers onto will hit the mines baffles if they aren't moved further back. The cam cover baffle mounting surface is actually sloped so there is more gap at the back, then at the front of the cover. That's why they tell you to move the studs to #6 an #7 cam caps. High octane modded their kits so that if you forget to move the studs etc, they will still fit because of the holes they drilled in the plates.

Breather pipe that plumbs into the rear rubber turbo intake, from the cam cover is the culprit usually. When you put more than factory boost in, it tends to happen more. Normally there is a little build up over time... Then the bovs recirculate the oil blowby mess through the intake and wet AFM's filters etc. Nismo brought out a oil/air seperator can kit but it's exy, and people usually go the catch can route with breathers.

Haha, maybe a 4.0L might.....

Hey Nick Reusing his HKS cams, 264deg 8.8mm lift. Told him a higher lift would help torque but that would be more $$$ again... They do sound like the tomei 260deg poncams I had in my 32GTR at idle though

Valves, tomei type b srings and retainers, shims and buckets are in. Head just needs valve clearances checked once the cams are fitted.

If it's leaking, it generally means the oring seals inside the rack have seen better days. Sooner or later it will need to be rebuilt/replaced. I'd probably just by a good second hander and put new boots etc onto it.

Are they off a 34 made after Aug 2000? If they are then they would use the 322mm rear disc.

Shits me when you can buy a new 35GTR in the US for $70k!!!!! Stupid Australian import duty, luxo car taxes etc!

So it will look something like this?

V spec II has 322mm rear rotors, non v spec and V spec I has 298-300mm rear rotors.

You'd want 4 inch minimum? or twin 3's haha hey Paul...

Oil change??? what's that?.... Every 5000km or less depending on how the car is driven 10w 40, with filter.

Not impressed that I missed out...but good to hear that you guys had fun!!! I'll have another official cruise in the pipeline soon... More pics!!!

Yeah, that was a non official cruise too. We have not had problems with our official cruises

For the Richo boys meeting at the base carpark....I won't be there due to work commitments ( ), but you guys can still meet there and go from there