GTR_NUTZ

So the bonnet lip doesn't quite sit/ fit into place, it need to be bent and pressed into place and held down frim... I don't want to screw it into place. I'm thinking a few vice grips holding it into place. Any other suggestions?

Check for corrosion in your earth/ power lead (from your battery to starter/ car) Either change it or if you have enough length cut it and put the terminal back on. My old mans car use to be a bit like this until he changed the leads. If your regulator/ alternator was on the fritz your volts will drop and the battery light on your dash so come up really faintly after a few mins of running.

This thing still happening? How many going?

PM sent

I got him to import my 32 GTR about 6-7 years ago. As what the other comments are. I cant think of anything bad to say.

I'd say it's your afm's. Try driving over pot holes and if it happens everytime you hit a pot hole then it's most likely dry solder joints on the pins in your afm's. Easy fix. My car was doing it for a while. Took it to 3 different places and they couldn't find the fault.

Yeah I've read it's good for that and side skirts, just a bit worried it'll fly off at 200kph and go through my windshield.

I have Friday off... Just sayin

I bought a full kit about a year ago and now the weather is getting better I plan to do all the hard work of prepping and fitting before I get the respray done. Will sikaflex be strong enough to hold down the N1 bonnet and boot lip? I seriously don't want to drill holes in my bonnet or boot to attach them. Just wondering if this is the way to go or if anyone else can recommend another option. I tried searching but couldn't find the info I wanted. Cheers!

Spotted fellow SAU white 34 intersection of elgar and cantebury about 15min ago

Pics would be good. Especially the fuse you have. Pretty sure the purpose of a earth kit is so the power doesn't have to run around the chassis to go back to the battery. It's just a short cut straight to the negative terminal. And I've read reports of an extra 3-4 killer wasps and longer battery life. Plus they look cool. :-D I just have the PFC and a 5 or 6 point earth kit straight to the battery.

Alright awesome! Deffinatly gonna give the old fuses the switcheroo. Even if it's reduced this 'power-loss-hiccup' thing from every 10-15 mins of every drive to just twice a week I'll be plenty happy with that. As for PFC I don't know what model it is. But I bought it about 5 years ago. I still got the stock ecu and thinking about getting the nistune chip installed and getting another tune done and just swap the two everyone and a while. It's only a PFC problem right? Nistune dont have this problem do they? Oh and is this fuse swap in addition to the earthing trick you done as well?

So you replaced the fuse in the drivers foot well?

Just checked out Wikipedia (I know it's not a reliable sorce of intel) but they say N1 block is stamped with 24U or 25U. No 25U? Edit: it appears you can not rely on Wikipedia.

What's the difference between 24U and 25U stamped blocks?

I've heard similar about the old 32 blocks getting stronger with age. Would still like to see proof of that. This might be the reason muscle car builders prefer seasoned blocks or weathered blocks. Look at the RB30, +25 years old and still going strong, look at the power these blocks can produce no worries. I just bought a N1 block yesterday cheap cheap too :-) it's done 25000ks then spun a bearing :-/

I gutted my 3" cat and felt and heard no difference. Kakimoto 3" exhaust. But there was the occasional bang of a back fire changing gears or just backing off the accelerator. And yeah I'm pretty sure by law you need to run a cat. I think if the car is pre '85 (or somewhere around there) then no hotdog or cat required, just mufflers.

Looks like Dom's charger from fast and the furious. Never the less, verry verry cool. I done a couple of quick searches and just got a few jap sites. Also i think the coin is a remembelia of a guy called Shinichiro Sakurai. He worked for a motor company called Prince Motor company as a chassis engineer, Prince Motor company designed the Zero fighters in WWII. That company merged with Nissan in the mid 1960's. He was dubbed Prince Skline because of his involvement in the 'Prince' range of cars that where released in the mid 60's and played a key roll through the next several Prince cars to be realaesed. Shinichiro Sakurai went on to become president of Autech in 86. He kept working for nissan died at age 81 in 2011.

As above. They aren't really that hard to install. When you buy them (new) they come with instructions. Just need to find a constant power sorce, head unit power or hazard lights. Some gauges have a 'lamp' wire or something like that so when your headlights turn on the gauges dim or change colour.

32 gtr and gtst are both 5 stud. Same size rim. Gtr are forged. Gtst are cast. Not 100% sure about this but I'm pretty certain 4 stud are on NA 32 33. Unless being 5 stud converted.

Sizes of the two down pipes? (inner diameter) Then they go into a 4" flang for exhaust, right?

Who would buy a phone number? And how much you want for 1? Discount on more than 1 purchase?

Gold is too 'bro' like. Platinum = class

Why are they gold? Got platinum?

I got -5's on 19psi. It's pretty fun. Unles you change your afm's and exhaust you probably won't make it past the 300 mark. If you got stock internals maybe consider -9's for more response and lower the psi you should be around the 250 mark.