seeyagtr

Thanks guys all sorted!!

HI, Thanks for the heads up on the dyno sheet, This tune is what the car is running now, if you want the car for top end power the inlet cam needs to be retarded 2-4 degress and the exhust 2 degress. With the cams timming now I have gained mid range torque and get the turbos to spool on quickly. The car reachs full boost at 3800 to 4000 rpm. The car normal runs waste gate pressure at 0.9 bar. The car has 17 X 9 1/2 rims with 255/45 R17 tyres.

Hi mate, It looks like you are ready to get your build happening!! I alway use Ron Bell Engineering in Mandurah. They have the lastest machine in WA for balancing and the right knowlege to go with it. I always got the right price and service. Speak to Nathen, he will sort you out!!

HI guys, This car is still for sale, the car is in great condition with the power to match!!! Also posted in the WA for sale section!

HI mate, In the front cut next to to the brake booster there a unit that is held on with two bolts. It is the Boost gauge sender unit. If in good condition, I give you $20 for it and postal cost?

Hi guys, I am not up to speed like you guys on the subject. I am looking at getting a V35 shortly and just looking at working out if this tv/nav is worth all the trouble !! I have been in contact with av electronic in the US and they have a av input device that is pre-set up for the G35 and only one wire to CUT!! It will give you 4 AV inputs, 4 AV outputs, S video input, auto detect of revervse for camera and some other stuff. The only other problem is that it is designed for NTSC, but they tell me if you run your DVD/TV/NAV through this unit you have to switch the out put to NTSC on the device and only need to install a aerial? Is this a solution to get it all with out the hassel? The unit is around $600 delivered. Maybe a group by might get it cheaper... What are your guys thoughts or is this what you are not trying to do?

Cheers mate, I have spent huge amount of time and money on my car, It will be sad to see her... Still for sale !!!

Hi mate, In the engine bay near the brake booster there is a small black unit held on with two bolts, this is the sender unit for the factory boost gauge. If you have it can you please PM me. Cheers mate

Hi, I built the engine my self, I have done 4 full engine rebuild on gtrs (Rb26dett and rb26det) engines now the they are all making 350-400 rwkw with simular builds. (Contacts/Reference's advilable if required) The tune has been done by Top Racing. I will post the dyno Sheet today. (Have to get hold of a scanner) Cheers

Pics Added

Hi guys, The time has come to part with my passion.... I changed jobs at the start of the year and lost my company car. The job I am doing now requires me to do a far bit of driving and some times with customers. So unfortunatly I can not afford to buy a second car so the only option is to sell... The car is in great condition, engine fully built and making good power. My first tune that I did was very mild and now probly due to crank it up a bit. At 1.2 bar with little timming the car made 450HP. The cams need adjusting and a little more time on a tune and this combo will easy make 400 rwKw (520-530 Hp) This is a very regretful sale and the price will not move much. I will post some picture sortly and a dyno sheet. The car is very responsive!!! Performance Full engine rebuild less than 6,000 Km’s (January) 2860r-5’s Garret turbo's with S/S manifolds R34 Rb26 Crank N1 oil pump Eagle H beam rods AP rod bolts CP Pistons 86.5mm Bore Tommi rod and main bearings Head fully rebuilt Tommi oil restrictor ACL race series Metal head gasket Full Nissan gasket set Full match ported head R33 RB26dett Block HKS oil filter relocation kit HKS oil cooler Tommi pon cams type B Tommi adjustable cam gears Sard 700 cc injectors Trust sump ex-tension and baffle kit G-reddy twin BOV’s Apexi air intakes RB20 air flow meters Nismo oil separator G-reddy radiator G-reddy high pressure cap 16” Thermo fan Jasma 3.5" exhaust Custom 3” dump pipes N1 water pump Nissan Timing belt Fuel pump – Bosch 044 in tank with power up-grade HKS triple plate clutch 80%+ Battery re-location to boot Hi-cas removed – Lock bar fitted Custom intake piping (3”) N1 oil pump Electrics Apexi power FC Apexi hand control Apexi AVCR HKS turbo timer Pro Comp oil Gauge Exterior 17” Volk GTP rims with 90% tread (255/40/R17) Falken front lip Tein coil overs Brembo brakes (front- Project MU pads) Apexi front two piece rotors Interior Alpine deck & 12 disc stacker, 320km dash Key less entry (immobilizer) No time for people wanting to go for a thrash... Price $26,500 ono Contact me VIA PM or 0437518009 I am in Canningvale area of Perth WA [attachment 128105:DSC_0386.JPG]

Not Sure... It does sound like you have spat your exhust wheel of your turbo.... It would explain all three items... How much boost have you been running?

Hi Guys, I am chasing a prepared GTR for track use, track or Cams level 3 lic rego only is ok/prefered Must have good running gear. Let me know if you have one or know any around. Cheers

The stock boost is 10pis with the orifice removed it will boost to 12psi Sounds like a hose problem....

for a RB26 fpr the idel to raise and lower between 920-970 thats not too bad..... Are you running a standard air box? If not do you have custom inake piping? is do do you still have a balance connection between the air flow meters? If they are not balanced, under light loads or idel the air flow meter become un-balanced and cause fuel and loads cause some of the problems above.

HI, From reading you thread, you were just making a statement on the fact that 1000 HP is possiable? As for mods, 1-you must be running stock air flow meters at that horse power for them to be maxed? try a set od RB20 air flows they will be good for around 510-530 max, your N1 turbos will max out at around 450- 480 i think. 2- fuel pressure reg are probly not the way to got, if you put the fuel pressure up, yes you can get more out of them but you pump will deliver less fuel, it is still best to match your injectors to the power you are running, up-grade to the sard 700cc injector if you max you 550cc. do not forget to put in a good fuel pump. 3- as for the orignal question. you set up should be ok with the power you have, just be care full when shifting..... the 32 box will hold out ok till 500 RWHP or maybe 600 RWHP (but the R33 box is better).

If it was engine noise, you would see warning lights on low boost also, probly knock warning....

That looks sweet!!! How do I do that???

They look realy impressive, I have not played with LCD moduals before, I will get one in and see what happens!! I just need to find a second hand controler and hack it up and see what happens!!

I think that it would look quite good, It would be nice to set it up like the 34 GTR read out!!

I wanted to know if anyone had any ideas on rebuilding a hand controller in to a large dash mounted screen. using the inturnals of a stanard hand control and then using a larger LCD sceen and so custom buttons to make a lager read out you can mount ie: center pannel. Has any one done this before or know of any other way to get a larger read out that can be dash mounted? Cheers

+ 2 top Racing

The clutch that i have is Nismo G-max Twin, Has any one heard of these getting rebuild?

Hi guys, I have a twin plate that I am trying to get rebuilt, I have taken it to one place and they could do it, they just wanted me to buy a new one.... Has had one done in Perth? If not is there a good place to sent it over east? Cheers

HI guys, If any one has one of these lying around I am chasing one!! Cheers