seeyagtr

Lol I did the same on my old ZZR250!!! There is a number on the face of the lock barrel, I think that it is a leter and four numbers. I took the barrel out and took it in, to find out that this number is a key ID..... Take the number to a good locksmith and see how you go before pulling it a part. Try that, You might need proof of owner ship but.....

Your right the power FC for the RB20's has always been a special from AP engineering......

Not trying to steal your thread, buthas anyone tried Active Automotive? In Canning Vale?

Yep a couple of us over here in the west!!! I have not been in a R with the GT-SS but I have the 2860-5 and they are all good! I do have head work and cams, but they power on from 3400 rpm sweet!!

Any luck tracking down the R32 GTR clear fron indicators yet??

If the clutch guy has had a lok at it, by the sounds, It is you clutch and not you gear box fingered! the bearing that he is talking about is the clutch release bearing and the pedal box weld.. Any good clutch workshop should be able to replace the bearing and repair the pedal box. ?

If you have blownen up one head unit, that does not give anyone good confidence to lend you theres! There is only a few main settings on the AVCR, but the self learn mod sets about 10 points per boost setting and people will use at least two boost settings, so it not realy a simple fix.

Hi guys, I am chasing parts for my R32 GTR 1 x O2 sensor 1 x Factory boost sender unit Good condition Coil overs, with height and dampener control, (street use light tack work spring rate) Adjustiable rear camber arms Cheers guys

I will second that!! installed it two years ago, I thought that the height be an issue... but so far it has been all good, only one hit on the sump from a drive way.

PM sent on o2 sensors

Damm missed... Count me in for the next one... Rear slotted discs for r33 gtr and some good pads!! Cheers and well done!!!

HOw is your base timeing?? When cold the timing advancs further and if the base is to far advance it goes in to lip mode untill to retards?

Got to go a set turbos, My surgestion is the 2860-5 and dumps if you fit them your self you will have engough coin for a pfc

Mmmm, The other item to check will the fuel pressure reg..... should drop fuel presure down, there for reducing the amount of fuel through injectors Turn your O2 feed back and control on...... Takes care of it for you..

Well the chases are if you have older stock or upgraded turbos and they are getting some Km's on them there is every chance that a wheel/bearing has failed in the turbo. I have had my engine completly destroyed and a mate of mine has had the same thing on a 20,000 km old R34 vspec. This happens all to easy and a bit of extra boost then the wheel falls of....... then shit happens I had after market steel wheel turbos and the bearing let go which then wheel hit the housing and it was all over in a cold of smoke...! The turbo then enters back through the to the head and bore through the velocity of the wheel and the shattering particals then following the curve of the housing and manifold through to the head. It does not seam to make much difference on the throttle postion reving the car up or down, it is rpm of the wheel and the volcity of the bits. If comp test ok.... some new snails and off you go... :sorcerer:

I have been involved with several RB26 tunes, and have not had a problem with the cold start. You can look at the cranking timming and check the fuel mixtures, but if your closed loop is working that no biggy. It is probly a good idea to check the fuel at full boost that you intend to run, If you are only going to run 14 psi that should be safe, just keep an eye on your knock levels when you do ( try to keep them under 40)

There could be a problem with the the temp sensor f%^ked and then the ecu thinks that it needs to go on to cold start enrichment!!! It will kill the fuel econ and when hot it will be to rich and be flooding!! Just a nother place to look.

It all depends on how low the compresion is, what you want to do with the car ie; track work,drift and how long you are will to put up with it. Has it started to push oil in to catch can/intake system yet?

Good point, I only have the old standard one on there, I will have source a nother on tommorrow and see if that makes a difference. Looking at the car when I got hmoe tonight, the coolant is boiling from the small hose that comes from the turbo's accross the front of the engine! Could my turbo's be getting to hot !

I have had a N1 Water pump for the last couple of Years, The problem only started since the engine was done, but i have had problems with the radiator and trying to get a shroud to fit, Thats why I went to the thermo fan, and now since then I have noticed this problem?? I bled it again last night and flushed heaps of coolant out through the head bled, but it still has not sorted it. I might try a different radiator shop, the one I went to did not offer any solutions, except to run the thermo longer.

That is why it's so strange, the car temps are good, I am running a thermo on the radiator and now have it hard wired on till the temps drop to 76 degress. If I hold My hand on the top hose after it turns of, about 30sec after the you can feel the water through the hose bubbling! At this point the pfc says the car is at 90-94 degress. Could I have a problem with the cooling to the turbos or something?

Sorry folks should have mentioned i have bled, and rebled the entire coling system.. have good quality coolant. Any more ideas?

Hi Guys, I have only just rebuilt my rb26 and the bloody thing runs good temps when the engine is on even when the ambinent temps are around 40 degress! but get to my destination, turn the enigne off and with the temp on the PFC at 80-82 degress with in 30 secs it boils!!! Any Ideas, some one must have had this problems before? Cheers

I do not have a radiator for sale, But I have problem with my G-ready Alloy radiator in my GTR and looking at the photos , do you have a shroud? that is my problem the shroud did not fit. I am now using a thermo fan and that is better than the fan with out a shroud.

If the tunning shop does not replaced there air/fuel sensor regulary it gives a bad feed back, They are only good for a certin amount of work. Sounds like it is running to rich, they may not have set the AFM correctly but for that price it should be better than sweet!