seeyagtr

Hi, I had the same problem it sounds like when i rebuilt my engine, (400rwkw RB26) My mate did not tighten a hose correctly and it would rev freely to redline, and idel ok, but when driving, as I started to make boost it felt sulgish and would only go to 5000,5500 rpm and start to back fire and not rev any further.... I found that the plugs fowed, and it was not starting correctly, try to check your hoses for a spilt/loose clamp. You can connect a compressor to the inlet while you block off the extra hose and flow air through, try to keep it under 15 psi. See how you go!

Hey #1 to pull of the door trim, you need to rmove all the auxliary items of the door ie: Handles an bits and then gentle seperate the trim and door from the clips, this can be tricky and make sure that there is no extra screw in it. #2 Make sure that you mark the crank angle before you remove

Hey guys, I have draw up a alloy radiator shroud to fit my G_ready Radiator, because the standard shroud does not fit! But I am new to Perth and need to find a good fabracator to make one up for me, Any Ideas? Cheers

I have done the front up-grade to my front brakes, brembo calipers and brand new Apexi two piece rotars, they are sweet! i have got the rear calipers and dba rotors to go on, just have not brought pads

Have you installed you cams with cam wheels?? I have had a couple of pon cams that need a fair bit of adjustment to get any top end out of them? At the same time my cam when in with only 4 degres on the exhust cam Cam wheels might be the answer

HI, Does any one have or know where I can get a single rod to suit a RB26?? I have spun a bearing and the rods are only new, I do not want to throw the whole set out!!! If you can help PM or MOB 0437 518 009 Cheers

I had just fully built my RB 26 and got 5 minutes down the road and it has done a bearing!!! They can not tell me what happened, but it killed my brand new H Beam Rods and Standard 33 Crank (bend it! 12thou) Can any one help!!!!!

Guys, Has any one fitted up a HKS Triple plate to a R32 GTR? Do I need to change out the release bearing and carrer or does it just bolt in?? Can any one help?

I Had snapped my shaft on my 400r steel wheel turbo and as they do, it back feed through the head and killed my engine as well!! What I need now is 2 x standard exhust valves and 2 x inlet valves as the guys doing my head tell me that there is a couple bent!!!! Has any one got some spare or know were to get some??? Pm me or Moblie 0437 518 009 Cheers

Are the fuel rails from the RB26? If so, what year?

:confused: Thats correct the r34 gtt did not get brembos because the r33 gtr did not have bembo's. Only the V-Spec r33 came out with brembo's.

The brake system on the R33 GT Skylines are the same caliper and rotor as the R32 GTR. Nissan updates each new model of gtr with a new design of brake and the GT receives the brakes from the previous GTR.

The best guy to ask would be i guy i know down in Bunbury who has several cuts in stock at the moment. He may be able to break one up for the parts you want!! PM me if you want the information and contact number

I will learn how to type and edit the spelling mistakes next time..... OPPS

By the sound of that It might be to much play in the rear Diff gears. Try putting the car in netural and rotating the tail shaft. It sould not be able to rotate to mauch.

I had the problem were the plug came lose on the ECU and every time I hit a bump the engine cut out. The retainer bolt on the ecu plug was loose. I do not know if this is what is going on with yours. It does sound electrical it could be anything on the inigtion side. Do you have an after market alarm or checked through the wiring harness for any damage.?

It might also be a good idea to check the retainer bolt on the ECU.

do you have the diff centres If so can you PM me. Cheers

I had the say problem after my rebuild. cleaned of all carbon build up and idle was going up to 1500-1600 rpm. I could not find any air leaks and the hoses were all correct. At the back of the intake houseing there are the air by pass hoses that feed the aac and the cold start valve with air to bypass the trottles, blocked of these hoses to make sure that the vave were not stuck open (the rpm should drop). The only way i got the rpm down was to readjust the main throttle stops them selfs and then the tps switch. It is now at 950.

Tried to adjust the acc valve already though it has made no difference!! the car is also fueling up a fair bit, took for a drive on the week end and the guys that i whent for a crusie said that it was reguarly flaming out the exhust (wich is'nt that bad looks good!!) so i do not know. Looks like i might have to pull of the intake mnifold for a look. Must be a stuck acc valve or air regulator.

Have just got my r32 GTR back on the road after 3 months (bad bearing failure) Fully rebuilt the engine and just got it running on the week end but it has a idel problem with it reving at 1600 rpm. I have check the aac, cold start valve, throttle bodys, tps and the hoses under the intake manifold and throttle valves. Has any one had this problem or can recomend what else it could be?? :kick: :headspin:

Thanks for your reply, I only need them to hold up to 350rkw cheers mate

Do you guys know how the RB26 block holds up after sleeving?? and what horse power would the block handle after sleeving :goddam:

Does any one have or know where a can get a RB26 block from :devil2:

have you tried a local super cheap or who ever for a rb30 pump?? it should do the job