JustinFormosa

Aw well, in hindsight there probabaly a lot I could have done for it to come out better. Unfortunately I'm crazy busy with uni at the moment but once holidays start I'll be able to get into It and see how good I can get it. I'll keep this thread updated with pictures along the way. Thanks for your advice again guys

All I've been doing is wet sanding haha I find it easier. Although it's messy haha. I didn't sand the color before clear because it's a metallic so would have sanded all those flecks that were standing up and it wouldn't be as prominent, according to the guy at the paint shop I wasn't meant to. I've wet sanded a few of the panels back with 2000 grit then used a cut and polish and they look decent but not amazing. I am careful with the buffer, always keep it moving and be careful on edges and stuff I've watched a fair few videos, I guess it's just a matter of getting some better product and pads to get the shine out. I never expected it to be amazing but now that's I've done it I want to get it as good as it can be.

Ahaha okay I see, I don't have a DA sanded so I guess elbow grease is going to be the next best thing. Might get it down as best I can by hand with 2k grit then see if I can find some 3k paper somewhere or pads. Then go ahead with a heavy compound and firm pad. (I'll get 2 as suggested) then a finishing polish with medium/soft pad. I'll hit up my paint shop and see what they can supply, didn't look like they had Megs there at all. Just some other generic looking stuff. Thanks for your advice, I'm thinking also, once I get it down with 2000 would it be worth while getting someone to detail it. If there's anybody on here that is good with paint I'm on the Gold Coast. How much would a detailed be looking at roughly to get it from 2000grit sanded to "doesn't look like a crappy home job" quality?

I did actually do it all by hand.. even though I have an orbital sander, I couldn't find discs anywhere, I'll have a look at a few more paint shops for the discs. And comment back here after I give the above process a go, then hold off on the sealent/wax for a month or so. Appreciate the comments and tips guys

I agree with you there I didn't think I'd be able to get that amount of orange peel out without sanding, where do you recommend I go to get those sanding discs, I went to inspirations paint (where I got my paint and other supplies) and they didn't have any. They sound like the way to go because sanding by hand is a pain to say the least. Im assuming I should be able to get that McGuires 105 at supercheap? Also what is a DA? The process I'm thinking should be the best will be to: 1500 rotor sand. 2000 rotor sand. 3000 rotor sand. Heavy cut with wool pad Fine polish with fine foam pad. How do I go about waxing or protecting the paint?

Oh I see, alright well I'll try that, I've heard the McGuires range is pretty good, hopefully I can get it back with just the cutting compound. Because sanding is taking forever. The orange peel is pretty bad though. Above image is probably the worst.

Do you mean a firm foam pad? I'm also kind of concerned about taking too much paint off too. Do you think I should still cut it back with 2000 grit paper before moving through the heavy, medium then light polishes? Should I get a different pad for each grade? Or can I wash the one pad?

Pretty much the only compound I've been using is kitten cream cut and polish no. 2. And yes I have let the paint dry for a week at least. What do you suggest I use instead, I'm aware the wool pad should only be used for heavy cutting, and then foam for finer stuff, or so I was told. Here are some photos of how it is looking at the moment, apologies for the quality Third image is how it started before cutting

Hey guys, So I've recently resprayed my r32 from Acrylic green/clear to Acrylic metallic black/clear and I'm now looking at cutting it back and polishing it up to bring out a nice reflection and the metallic flecks alittle more. First off I'd like to say that this was my first time attempting painting anything that large before and also my first time using a compressor and gun for the job. The car was painted in a pop up car port so it was out of the whether, but obviously was not a booth job either. And there is a fair amount of orange peel in the paint and it probably wasn't applied the greatest due to trying to get the gun to spray correctly. I've now started sanding back the car with first 1500, then 2000 grit paper, then using an orbital polisher at around 1000 rpm with wool pad and a cut and polish compound to bring out the shine. I'm noticing this is leaving some swirl scratches and is also not quite removing all the 2000 grit scratches either and isn't quite giving me the shine that paint should. I'm wondering if anybody could help me out here in possibly giving some advice as to what products I should be using, maybe some tips and tricks as to the method and just some decent information from somebody thats worked with acrylic lacquer before. I can post up pictures of products I'm using and how the paint is looking too if need be. Any help would be appreciated fellas

Hey guys, Im after an r32 N1 bonnet lip, doesn't have to be genuine, or carbon fibre. Will pay postage to 4211 if required. Inbox me or text only, 0411507385. Thanks

Hey guys, After some advice, I have purchased a tomei r32 gtst dash cluster and the back of it is yellow/orange (indicating it is a s1 cluster) My r32 is a 1992, meaning it a series 2. This means that the dash cluster will not work correctly without rewiring/modification. I have rear the tach and high beam light won't work, and also the oil pressure warning light will always be on. What I am wondering is if anybody would be able to supply dash cluster pinout diagrams for both series 1 and 2 r32 dashes. Or if anybody knows how to get a S1 dash working correctly. Or if anybody knows a good nissan auto-electrician on the Gold Coast that would be able to wire this up for me. Thanks in advance. - Justin

Reviving this topic, what would it take to get a series 1 cluster working in a series 2 gtst?

Still have the alloy rad and thermos? If so PM me some pictures please. Thanks

Hey guys. I'm chasing a Shorin Rear Half Spoiler for my r32 probably a little bit of an unknown to most people, it looks like this. If anybody knows where to get one new of knows of one someone is selling or is selling one themselves I'd like to buy it. Willing to pay shipping so if someone has one shoot me a PM with a price and we can work something out. Name: Justin Contact: PM or Text (0411507385) Location: Gold Coast, QLD

Thanks for all the feedback, I ended up buying a gts-t here anyway, exemptions are easy to come by I'm qld. Also, why are they no longer allowed to be imported?

Yes just bent in, it's only an inch or so.

The rear lip on the boot is unknown to me as well, rear bar skirting is posted above ^

Mine are legitimate N1 skirts and because they are 2 piece they do fit snugly, they will have to be pulled in to match the angle of the rear guards. Not sure about gtr as they are one piece.

Answered my own question, its a Shorin rear half spoiler and if anyone has one for sale or knows where to get one please inbox me. Thankyou

Hey guys, Been trying to find out what this rear bar/rear pods are? Anybody know? And where to get them? Thanks in advance. - Justin

Hey guys, I'm looking at a low budget import at the moment (r32 rb20de) and I was just wondering after all the japan side of things is finished (i.e. Price of car, Shipping, Inspections and Insurance and everything else) and the car is landed in port. What other costs would I be faced with before the car is registrable in australia? I understand it needs a compliance plate which has to be done at a REVS worksop? Are there any other outstanding fee's that apply? Import taxes? or anything like that? Asking for someone with previous experience personally importing a car how much it costs after the car is landed? Thanks in advance. - Justin

Wondering the same thing, Just bought a set of N1 Gtr skirts for my Gts-t, It looks like they fit up fairly well on the front but the rears need to be pushed in against the body of the car as they naturally sit out due to the rear of a Gtr being wider than the Gts-t.

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting an r32 coupe. Would prefer a gts4 but gtst suits as well, stock rb20det only, manual, looking for a clean straight body low kms if possible type m or Gtr kit would be a bonus budgeting between 4k and 7k. Hit me up with what you've got. Located Gold Coast. Ph: 0411507385 Email: [email protected] Contact name: Justin Formosa

Bump

Bump this is still up for sale/swaps will take 9k cash or swaps for an r32 gtst or gts4 in clean condition.